Don’t let wild horses keep you away from Brunswick and the Golden Isles. The historic mainland port city of Brunswick is experiencing a renaissance, with the restoration of many buildings in its National Historic District. New antique and specialty shops, galleries and restaurants are bringing life to downtown. The Golden Isles—St. Simons, Little St. Simons, Sea and Jekyll Islands—are nothing less than vacation paradises. And just to the south Cumberland Island, a National Seashore famous for its wild horses, is not to be missed. Legend has it that once the sand of the Golden Isles is in your shoes, you’ll forever wish to return.
Brunswick has an appealing nostalgic flavor with rowhouse-style buildings decked out with awnings and cobblestone sidewalks shaded by palm trees. The town was named for Braunsweig, Germany, the birthplace of King George II of England, who granted the land charter for the state that was then named in his honor. Its streets are laid out in a grid pattern, much like Savannah’s, and it’s no coincidence—both cities were designed by James Oglethorpe.
Once known as the capital of “Shrimp Country,” Brunswick still has an active shrimping fleet, and if you visit Mary Ross Waterfront Park on the East River near Brunswick Landing Marina in the late afternoon, you may see fishermen unloading their hauls. The shrimp start their lives in the vast stretches of marshland, called the Marshes of Glynn, that surround the Golden Isles and Brunswick—the same marshes that Georgia poet Sidney Lanier wrote about in his famous poem of the same name.
St. Simons Island is the most developed of the Golden Isles, with a mix of residences and resorts. Visitors come for the beaches, of course, but also to golf, shop and take in some history. During the Revolutionary War and later, St. Simons Island’s prized oak timbers were milled for use in warship construction, including “Old Ironsides,” a.k.a. the USS Constitution, built in 1794 and still afloat in Massachusetts as the oldest ship in the U.S. Navy. After the war large cotton and rice plantations were established where the trees once stood, bringing prosperity to the area—for a time. The Civil War brought the end of the plantation era, and the island struggled economically until steamships started bringing tourists to the island in the late nineteenth-century.
Jekyll Island has been a place for gracious living since the eighteenth-century, and in 1886 it became one of the most exclusive resorts in the U.S., when some of the wealthiest American families—the Morgans, Vanderbilts, Astors and Rockefellers, to name a few—formed the Jekyll Island Club and built enormous “cottages” nearby to spend their winters in. In 1904 Munsey’s Magazine described the Jekyll Island Club as “richest, most exclusive and least accessible club,” in the country. It operated until the days before World War II. The state of Georgia bought the island in 1947 and has done an excellent job combining limited development of hotels and residences while protecting a fascinating historic district and vast natural areas.
Cumberland Island, the largest and southernmost of Georgia’s barrier islands, is like no place else in the world. Although people lived on the 18-mile-long island dating back to the Native Americans, its natural areas remain unspoiled. Wild horses cavort on its beaches; live oaks provide a shade canopy over roads and hiking trails; deer roam in maritime forests and shorebirds dance and dive. The ruins of an old mansion, the one-room First African Baptist Church (where John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette were married in 1996) and Plum Orchard, the grand 1898-built Georgian Revival Mansion, all have stories to tell. The island was designated a National Seashore in 1972 and protected from further development.
Things to See and Do
If you had a week to spend in Brunswick and the nearby Sea
Islands, you still couldn’t see and do everything. For starters,
the beaches are incomparable and stretch out along the ocean
side of all the islands for miles and miles. They’re great for
beachcombing, seeing wildlife and, of course, sunning and
swimming. At night, if you are lucky you’ll see loggerhead
sea turtles. The females have been laying their eggs along
the Golden Isles Beaches for centuries. The new Georgia Sea
Turtle Center on Jekyll Island (see below) leads guided evening
sea-turtle walks and morning hatchling walks during
the mating season in the summer months.
Then, of course, there’s golf and tennis, with many courses
and courts to choose from. Among them are: the Jekyll Island
Golf Courses (912-635-3636) and Sea Palms Golf &
Tennis Resort (912-638-3351) on St. Simons. Other tennis
options are the clay courts at Jekyll Island Tennis Center
(912-635-3154) or the Jekyll Island Hotel (912-635-2600).
And for whole-family fun, try Jekyll Island Miniature Golf
(912-635-2648) or the Links, an 18-hole mini-course near
the Pier in St. Simons Village. Another family diversion is the
Summer Waves Water Park (912-635-2074, www.summerwaves.
com) which has tube rides, water slides, a wave pool
and kiddie pool.
You’ll need wheels to do any island hopping, and Avis,
Enterprise and Hertz all have outlets in the area. Or if you
prefer to let someone else do the driving, your marina can
help you get a taxi. Customers of Golden Isles Marina can
borrow a courtesy car to do errands or go to the grocery store,
but loaner-car use is strictly limited to one hour. On Jekyll
Island, glorified red golf carts, called Red Bugs, have recently
become a favored form of transportation. These small electric
cars, which come in two-, four- and six-passenger varieties, can be rented from Red Bug Motors (912-635-9330, www.
redbugmotors.com) at the Jekyll Airport.
Alternatively, you can get around on two wheels and take
in the scenery at your own pace. The flat island terrain makes
pedaling easy. Bike rentals are available on St. Simons at
Benji’s Bike Service (912-638-6766), Barry’s Beach Service
(912-638-8053), Monkeywrench Bicycles (912-634-5551),
Ocean Motion Surf Co. (912-638-5225) and Wheel Fun
Rentals (912-634-0606), which also has an outlet on Jekyll
Island (912-635-9801). Jekyll Island Bicycle Rental (912-
635-3636) also rents on this island, where there are 20 miles
of paved bike paths. Bike rentals are also available on the pier
at Cumberland Island.
For a trip through the area’s poetry-inspiring marshes,
contact Marsh Tours (912-638-9354, www.marshtours.
com) for narrated pontoon boat rides that depart from the
Hampton River Club at the north end of St. Simons. For an
even closer look at the grasses, birds, fish and dolphin that
live in the creeks between the islands, you can take a kayak
tour or rent one to explore your own. SouthEast Adventure
Outfitters (www.southeastadventures.com) offers tours
from two locations: St. Simons Island (912-638-6732) and
Spanky’s Marshland on Highway 17 in Brunswick (912-265-
5292). Tidelands Nature Center (912-635-3636) on Jekyll
Island offers canoe and paddle boat rentals and leads guided
kayak tours. The center also has an aquarium, exhibits and
offers guided nature walks.
Lady Jane (912-257-1558, www.credlesadventures.com,)is a working shrimp boat that runs shrimping and dolphin
tours from Spanky’s Marshland on Highway 17 in Brunswick.
You get to watch (and help) the crew drop and haul in the
net. Dolphin in search of a free meal often follow the boat.
The St. Simons Transit Co. (912-638-5678, www.saintsimonstransit.
com) also runs dolphin tours.
The Village at the southern end of St. Simons is a good place
to begin your visit. There you can drop into the visitor center
for information or take an antique trolley-tour of the island
run by St. Simons Trolley (912-638-8954). Tours depart
daily at 11 a.m. at the Trolley Stop at the pier on Mallery
Street. This downtown area is filled with shops, galleries and
restaurants and is just a stone’s throw from the 104-foot-tall
St. Simons Lighthouse and Museum (912-638-4666, www.
saintsimonslighthouse.org). If you are up for climbing 129
steps, you’ll get a fabulous view of the surrounding islands,
marshes and sea. The same organization also runs the Maritime
Center, a museum with interactive displays in the Old
Coast Guard Station, which opened in April 2006. Another
historic site worth visiting is the Fort Frederica National
Monument, which includes the ruins of a fort built in the
1730s. The National Park Service offers tours that highlight
the colonial era on the island, and there is a visitor center and
film to help you get oriented.
St. Simons has several shopping areas, many with very
upscale boutiques and clothing stores, and, as is usually the
case, with places rich in natural beauty, the island boasts
many art galleries full of high-quality works. “Olde” is big around these parts too, with seemingly endless antiquing
opportunities.
While Jekyll Island was once the exclusive playground of
the very, very rich, it welcomes everyone today. There is no
better way to start a visit than at the Jekyll Island Museum
(912-635-4036). The small museum shares space with a
horse stable on Stable Road and has exhibits about the island’s
past. But the museum is more than a building. Its mission
is the preservation of the 11-mile long island’s historic,
architectural and archeological resources, most notably the
Historic Landmark District, which includes the Jekyll Island
Club and several of the nineteenth-century tycoons’ “cottages.”
An excellent narrated tram tour includes guided visits
to several buildings and wonderful trivia about the customs
of the rich and famous. Carriage ride tours (remember those
stables), run by Victoria’s Carriage and Beach Trail Rides
(912-635-9500), also depart from the museum. The 200-acre
Historic District is a fine place to walk around. You can stop
by the Jekyll Island Club for a cocktail or cup of coffee and
then browse through the shops housed in some of the historic
buildings.
The island’s newest attraction is the Georgia Sea Turtle
Center (912-635-4444, www.georgiaseaturtlecenter.org),
which opened in June 2007. The center, in the old power
plant in the Historic District, provides state-of-the-art emergency
care to sick and injured sea turtles. Its staff does scientific
research and runs public education programs. Exhibits tell the story of sea turtle conservation, rehabilitation and
their amazing journey from egg to adulthood.
Although guidebooks tell you that Cumberland Island is
accessible only by ferry from the National Park Service Visitor
Center (912-882-4335, www.nps.gov/cuis) in St. Marys,
the truth is that private boats are welcome to call at the island
and tie up at one of two public docks (see Navigation and
Anchorages), or to anchor off the island and dinghy ashore.
In addition to its pristine beaches, the island has 50 miles
of hiking trails that meander through maritime forests, wetlands
and historic districts. You’re likely to meet up with feral horses (who won’t bother you if you
don’t bother them) and see all kinds
of seabirds and other wildlife. Rental
bicycles are available at the Sea Camp
dock and you are free to ride on any of
the car-free public roads (but not the
hiking trails). Park Rangers lead history
and nature walks, during which
you can see the ruins of the Dungeness
Mansion, built by the Carnegie family;
the nearby Ice House Museum, which
contains island artifacts; and the Plum
Orchard Mansion. There are campsites
on the island, as well as the exclusive
16-room Greyfield Inn (904-261-6408,
www.greyfieldinn.com), which offers
the island’s only accommodations. And
that’s all there is! You can get drinking
water at the dock, but there are no
convenience stores where you can buy
snacks, drinks sunscreen or insect repellant,
so be sure to bring what you need.
Restaurants & Provisions
Shrimp, Brunswick stew and Lowcountry boil are local
specialties that you’ll find on most menus, and they’re well
worth trying. Fresh Georgia shrimp are sweet and succulent
and far more delicious than any we have eaten up North.
Brunswick stew, invented you-know-where, is a blend of
meats and vegetables simmered all the livelong day in a
peppy tomato-based broth. (You can see the pot in which
the original batch of Brunswick stew was made at the visitor
center at Route 17 and the St. Simons Island Causeway.) And
Lowcountry boil is a hearty combination of shrimp, sausage,
potatoes, onions and corn.
You won’t go hungry in Brunswick and the Golden Isles.
A local guide book lists 150 restaurants in the area, including
some fine local eateries and reliable chain restaurants located
along the highway. If you’re tied up at Brunswick Landing in
downtown Brunswick, you’ll find character and good food in
a few small neighborhood places. Among the noteworthy are
Cargo Portside Grill (912-267-7330), which serves coastal
fare from many ports, and Pearl (912-265-0111), which specializes
in French, Asian and American cuisine.
St. Simons Island has a wide array of choices, starting
with the Coastal Kitchen and Raw Bar (912-638-7790),
which opened in Spring 2007 at Golden Isles Marina and has
great views and memorable shrimp. The Village at the south
end of St. Simons Island presents several mealtime options.
On Mallery Street you’ll feel comfortable at Barbara Jean’s
(912-634-6500), a homey eatery known for its crabcakes,
meat loaf and “chocolate stuff.” You can’t beat the location
for indoor and outdoor dining at Brogen’s (912-638-1660)
near the pier, which has been serving “casual good ol’
Southern food” for 25 years. Also by the pier, try the Oasis
Seaside Restaurant & Deck (912-638-2424) for fine meats
and fish, or Zuzu’s (912-638-8655), for handheld fare, ice
cream, and malts. We also recommend Mullet Bay (912-
638-0703), where you can savor the seafood specialties out
on the porch. Just beyond the kiosk shops on Mallery Street
you’ll find the Georgia Sea Grill (912-638-1197), a lovely
establishment known for its excellent cuisine. Otherwise,
you can drive or hop a cab out to Route 341/25 where you’ll
find shopping and dining galore.
At Jekyll Harbor Marina, SeaJay’s (912-635-3200) features
local seafood, handmade stews, chowders and salads.
People line up for its Lowcountry boil, and on weekends,
there’s live music. Over at the Jekyll Island Historic Wharf,
where J.P. Morgan used to dock his yacht, at Latitude 31
(912-635-3800) the bill of fare includes steak and seafood.
The adjacent Rah Bar is a local favorite for casual outdoor
dining with an emphasis on oysters, clams, and of course,
shrimp.
At the elegant Jekyll Island Club Hotel, Vincent’s Pub
(912-635-2600) is a quaint old-English style place with food,
wine, beer and spirits. The mealtime experience in the Grand
Dining Room is like going back in time The casually-attired
can feast on breakfast and lunch, but dinner is more formal
with tasteful piano music and a requirement that men wear
jackets. Some of the oceanfront hotels feature restaurants.
You’ll find Zachry’s Seafood Restaurant (912-635-3128)
and a market in the Beachside Shopping Center at Fortson
and Beachview.
On Cumberland Island, the choices are plain drinking water
at the dock or an elegant dinner (reservations required)
Monday through Thursday nights at the Greyfield Inn (904-
261-6408). So unless you are ready for a really big splurge
($118.83 per person, including tax and tip as of August 2007,
alcoholic beverages not included), it’s best to pack snacks,
lunches and beverages.
Charts
Use ChartKit Region 6, page 37, 38 and 65; also Maptech
electronic and NOAA paper charts 11489 (1:40,000), 11502
(1:80,000) and 11506 (1:40,000).
Navigation and Anchorages
Atlantic Ocean Entrance to St. Simons Sound
The Brunswick/St. Simons Sound Inlet is one of the easiest
and most straightforward on the Georgia coast. The shipping
channel (controlling depth: 30 feet) begins approximately
10 miles out to sea at RW “STS” Mo(A) WHIS—the
Brunswick Harbor-Bar Channel. Be sure to stay in the
well-marked channel as you may see depths as low as three
feet, just outside the channel some 5 miles from shore.
Between G “15” Q G BELL and R “16” Q R the Bar Channel
takes more of a westerly turn, passing south of St. Simons
Island, and empties into St. Simons Sound. From the channel
entrance it is about 12 miles to Golden Isles Marina
on the east shore of Lanier Island; 15 miles to Brunswick
Landing Marina in downtown Brunswick; and 16 miles to
Jekyll Harbor Marina on Jekyll Creek.
Southbound on the ICW
South of Sapelo Island, the ICW lazily meanders south along
the Mackay River. Just north of Fl G 4s 12ft 4M “241” (SM
673.4) the river splits around Lanier Island. The eastern
fork is deep, but you’re confronted with a nine-foot-high
fixed bridge. The bridge blocks your access to Golden Isles
Marina just to its south. To get there, you’ll have to continue
down the ICW, along the western shore of Lanier Island.
At SM 674.2 you’ll pass under the 65-foot-high fixed
bridge. Continue south along Lanier Island’s western shore,
and follow the ICW marks along a dangerously shallow
area that extends from the island almost all the way to Fl
G 2.5s 12ft 3M “249.” To reach Golden Isles Marina (912-
634-1128), turn north at this mark toward G “1” and R
“2,” and follow the channel to the marina. You’ll notice a
designated anchorage on Lanier Island’s eastern shore—
while the holding ground is OK, currents can rip through
here. You’ll be more comfortable at the marina, and it’s an
excellent choice.
From Fl G 2.5s 12ft 3M “249” south of Lanier Island, you
can head east, out to sea, or continue southeast to R “20”
Q R and follow the ICW southbound. From R “20,” keep
south of R “22” Fl R 4s as a visible shallow area sits to the
north—although it shouldn’t cause problems. From here,
continue southwest on the ICW, which jumps into Jekyll
Creek. The Brunswick River takes off to the west, leading
to Brunswick.
Brunswick
The main channel to Brunswick is very wide and simple to
navigate. About one mile west-northwest of R “26” Fl R 4s
and G “27” Fl G 2.5s, the cable-stayed Sidney Lanier Bridge
crosses the Brunswick River with a vertical clearance of 185
feet. West of the bridge, the Turtle River then takes off to
the west and the East River departs to the north, between
Brunswick and Andrews Island. The full-service, first class
Brunswick Landing Marina (912-262-9264) with all of its
amenities, sits along the Brunswick waterfront.
Jekyll Creek
The creek is narrow with mud flats on both sides. Both
Sea Tow and many cruisers cite the creek as one of the
trouble spots on the Georgia section of the ICW. Sea Tow
Brunswick (912-280-9428) captains suggest avoiding it at
low tide and transiting at mid-tide or better when the water
is rising, as there are shallow spots even in the channel. In
May 2007, we saw depths of less than four feet in the channel
near Fl G 4s 12ft 4M “17” north of the Latham River.
Running aground will hurt your schedule more than your
boat. The bottom is “fluff” mud, said Drew Orr and Jamie
Kavanaugh, general mangers of Brunswick Sea Tow. “It’s
like running into a bowl of pudding.” Some dredging was
going on, with the spoils being deposited on a new, and at
that time, uncharted island outside the channel at approximately
31º06.855’ N; 81º26.105’ W. At SM 684.3, you’ll
come to a fixed bridge (vertical clearance: 65 feet). Just
south of the bridge at SM 684.3 is the very transient-friendly
Jekyll Harbor Resort Marina (912-635-3137).
Cumberland River
The Cumberland River is generally deep, and navigation
is easy until you reach R “40” (SM 695.9). Leave it to the
west to avoid a bar that juts out from the mainland. To
visit the northern end of Cumberland Island bear left into
Brickhill River. There is a good anchorage near Abraham
Point, from which you can dinghy ashore. Another good
spot is near the southern end of Brickhill near the Plum
Orchard Mansion. A more straightforward route is to follow
the Cumberland River to the southern end of the island
and turn into an unmarked channel, known locally as the
Dungeness-Greyfield Channel, which runs along the island’s
western shore with 9 to 10 feet of water as far north as the
Greyfield Inn.
Coming from the north, make your turn toward shore at
SM 711.5, just north of R “34.” This channel, which is also
used by the ferry, will take you to the Dungeness ruins and
two docks run by the National Park Service, where you can tie
up for the day, or anchor off and dinghy ashore. There is no
overnight docking, but you can spend the night on the hook.
Shoreside and Emergency Services
Airport: Jacksonville International Airport 904-741-4902
Coast Guard: Brunswick 912-267-7999
Police, Fire, Ambulance: 911
Taxi: Yellow Cab 912-265-9985
Train: AMTRAK 800-872-7245
Tow Service:
—Sea Tow 800-4SEATOW
—TowBoatU.S. 800-391-4869 F
