Cruising the Great Pamlico Sound, North Carolina

Published: July 2009 in Marinalife Magazine, Summer Issue.
Written By: Claiborne S Young


The Great Pamlico Sound North Carolina's Shallow Inland Sea By: Claiborne S Young

Some years ago, while cruising up the Bigfoot Slough channel hard by Ocracoke Island, I heard a VHF call go out for any local tow operator. One of the nearby towing companies soon answered up, and, out of curiosity, I switched my radio to hear their exchange where the grounded captain stated, "I don't know how we can be aground. There's no land in sight."

And, that just about sums up navigation of North Carolina's vast inland sea known as Pamlico Sound. While cruising the sound's it's easy to imagine you are well out into the briny blue, perhaps headed for Bermuda. Well one look at the depth sounder will clear up any of your misconceptions. Pamlico Sound, even at its deepest is 15 feet and it is quite possible to run aground with no shoreline in sight. The Pamlico is dotted with hundreds of fishing trap stakes. The state of North Carolina has been diligently eliminating these pests, but the remaining stakes are still navigational hazards.

In a situation very similar to what can be encountered on North Carolina's Albemarle Sound, the subject of my last article for Marinalife, the Pamlico's shallow depths, coupled with the sound's long wind fetch, can quickly give rise to short (close together), steep seas, which can make for anything but a comfortable ride. Plan your cruise of the Pamlico for a day of fair weather and light breezes. A well functioning GPS chart plotter will eliminate most navigational problems, and a sharp lookout for stakes and fish traps should keep you clear of these hazards.

Pamlico Sound offers several can't miss ports of call, and the opportunity to experience the rich history and folklore of coastal North Carolina. Moving north to south, cruisers can enter Pamlico Sound via either Crotoan or Roanoke Sounds. Vessels bound south on the Crotoan must be able to clear a 45-foot fixed bridge. Of course, this won't be a problem for power craft, and this passage is much preferred over the Roanoke Sound route for all who can clear the bridge.

Sail craft must contend with a far more navigationally arduous cruise south on the winding, but well marked Roanoke Sound channel. Along the way, you can stop at the friendly port of Manteo on Roanoke Island, but eventually cruisers traveling this route must contend with the daunting Old House Channel, and a mind boggling marker color reversal, just where you would least expect such a navigational quandary.

Finally, both passages lead into the wide, northern waters of Pamlico Sound. Moving to the south, there used to be two channels leading to ports of call along the sound's easterly banks, composed of North Carolina's fabled outer banks. However, while they still appear on some charts, the channels to Avon and Rodanthe shoaled in years ago, and should be avoided by all cruisers.

Next up, mariners can visit the only mainland port of call flanking the Pamlico's mid-section. The marked, Far Creek channel, leading west to the tiny fishing and farming village of Engelhard, lies south of charted Long Shoal River.

After traversing this 5-foot passage, cruisers will sight a well-sheltered harbor dead ahead, teeming with colorful fishing and shrimping trawlers. Have your camera ready.

From Top Left: Sunset on the Sound.

Many buildings are built on pillings to raise them off the ground, since the average height of the isladn is less than 5 feet above sea level.

The Hatteras Ferry runs every half-hour from Hatteras to the northern tip of Ocracoke Island. Call 1-800-BY-FERRY for schedules.

Bike riders enjoy the wheather along a sandy lane, one of many unpaved raods in Ocracoke.

The Hatteras Lighthouse, first built in 1803, is the beacon of light for all ships off the cost of the Outer Bands, Recently moved inland due to erosion of the shore, the lighthouse stands at 207.5 feet and has a visibility range from 20 nautical miles.

One small facility, Big Trout Marina, is glad to accept overnight transient vessels, but its docks are really best suited to boats 40 feet and smaller. The marina is also home to the only currently operating restaurant in town.

Farther to the south, on the Outer Banks (ocean) side of the sound, cruising captains can navigate the Rollison Channel to Hatteras village. There's always lots of confusion centered around the name similarity between Cape Hatteras, located on the ocean side of the Outer Banks, and Hatteras village, which has always been a soundside community. A whole host of marinas are ready to greet visiting vessels at Hatteras village including Hatteras Harbor Marina and Hatteras Landing Marina. A quick step to the north will take you to wonderful Channel Bass Restaurant.

South of Hatteras village, a hap-hazardly marked channel leads to Hatteras Inlet. This seaward cut is not recommended for visitors, but many years ago, one of the most compelling and enduring legends of the Outer Banks was set in these waters. Old timers will tell you of a snow-white, albino bottle nosed dolphin who used to lead ships in through the narrow and twisting channel. Local captains came to rely on "Hatteras Jack," and his memory is still spoken of today with pride and honor.

Our southernmost Pamlico Sound port of call for this sojourn is the island community of Ocracoke. These once lonely sands were originally settled by a group of pilots who guided ships through nearby Ocracoke Inlet. This seaward passage was of vital commercial importance during Colonial times. It is the only Outer Banks inlet to remain continuously open since the time of earliest European colonization. Truly, these isles are lands in constant flux.

Approach Ocracoke by way of the charted Big Foot Slough Channel. During the last several years, the aids to navigation have been changed several times on Big Foot Slough Channel, and some shoaling has reared its ugly head. Be sure to have the very latest edition of NOAA chart 11550 aboard before tackling this passage. And, a copy of "Cruising Guide to Coastal North Carolina" wouldn't hurt either.

Today, visitors will find Ocracoke served by a fine harbor known as Silver Lake. Many think this to be a natural body of water. Not so. Silver Lake was dredged from the confines of old Cockle Creek by the US Army Corps of Engineers in the 1930's.

You can anchor in Silver Lake harbor and dinghy ashore, or tie up to the Cape Hatteras National Seashore docks, hard by the car ferry terminal. Transients can dock in Ocracoke at the Anchorage Inn & Marina.

Ashore, visitors will find a far busier community than was the case as little as ten years ago. During the summer months, Ocracoke, is a bustling place. Some streets are still sandy lanes, however, and for those who seek carefully, the old Ocracoke of yesteryear can still be glimpsed.

Don't miss dinner at the Back Porch Restaurant. Many of the dishes are prepared with traditional island recipes, and are NOT to be missed.

You might also want to take a few moments to visit the nearby cemetery where several British sailors rest, with the flag of the United Kingdom waving above their graves. The bodies were recovered during World War II when German submarines sank more than a few British ships off the North Carolina coastline. Once a year, there is a ceremony at which members of the Royal British Navy honor their fallen comrades.

There is so much more that could be said of Pamlico Sound, and the Outer Banks in particular. For more information, check out this author's book, "Cruising Guide to Coastal South Carolina," and the "North Carolina" portion of the Salty Southeast Cruisers Net at www.CruisersNet.net.

That's all for now. Good luck and good cruising to all!