Weekend Warrior: Cruising Lake Michigan

Harbor Springs, Petoskey and Charlevoix

Written by Yesha Hayes

If you’re looking for a place with scenic views, friendly people, and great resort-like boating communities, then the northeast shore of Lake Michigan should be added to your weekend-getaway bucket list. The quaint towns of Harbor Springs, Petoskey, and Charlevoix surround Little Traverse Bay and are filled with Victorian architecture, great restaurants, and charming shops. The entire area moves at a gentle pace, more reminiscent of older times.

Harbor Springs

Harbor Springs emerged as a recreational destination and health resort in the 1870s, when Midwest socialites were looking for a retreat from the grime, dust, and heat of the cities. Ernest Hemingway vacationed in the area as a child and later referred to Harbor Springs as “a priceless place.” You can enjoy concerts on the waterfront, art fairs in the park, and farmers markets downtown. Be sure to drop by Out To Lunch (7593 S. State Rd., 231-526-2980) for a bite to eat—it’s popular with locals for its generous, homemade breakfasts and lunches. Stafford’s Pier Restaurant (102 East Bay Street, 231-526-6201, www.staffords.com) has been one of Michigan’s best waterfront-dining spots for more than forty years. There are several dining rooms, a lounge, and an open-air pier; the menus feature such staples in cuisine as walleye, whitefish, and perch.

The harbor here is deep—the deepest in the Great Lakes—making it safe for larger boats. Two marinas work closely together to ensure that you and your vessel are both properly accommodated: Harbor Springs Municipal Marina (250 E. Bay St., 231-526-5355, www.michigan.gov/dnr/) and Irish Boat Shop (400 Bay St., 616-526-6225, www.irishboatshop.com). Another option is the Little Traverse Yacht Club (343 East Bay St., 231-526-7919, www.ltyc.org), which hosts the Ugotta Regatta each July.

One fun day trip to consider: Avalanche Bay Indoor Waterpark (1 Boyne Mountain Rd., 231-549-6000, www.avalanchebay.com), about a 40-minute drive away and complete with 88,000 square feet of rides, slides, lazy river, a surf simulator, and more.

Petoskey

Just as Mark Twain spun his boyhood adventures on the Mississippi River into fictional tales about Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer, Ernest Hemingway roped memories of his childhood in Petoskey into short stories about Nick Adams. The town’s character and appeal have changed little since then. Its name is said to have derived from a word in the language of the native Odawa tribe meaning “where light shines through clouds.” The historic tree-lined Gaslight District is home to more than 170 restaurants and shops, and visitors stroll the lakefront beaches for pieces of Petoskey stone, a prized 350-million-year-old fossilized coral and also the state stone of Michigan. Bayfront Park has unrivaled views of Little Traverse Bay and excellent picnic grounds.

You can dock right in Bayfront Park at the 100-slip Petoskey Marina (101 East Lake St., 231-347-6691, www.petoskey.us), which has a nice selection of amenities, including complimentary bicycles. The Bay Harbor Lake Marina (832 Front St., 231-439-2544, www.bayharbor.com/lakemarina), just north of town, is part of a full-service property with a golf course.

If you’re looking for a bit more of a rush, visit the Odawa Casino (1760 Lears Rd., 877-442-6464, www.odawacasino.com), a quick cab ride from Petoskey’s downtown and regularly voted one of the best casinos in the state. The casino has 1,500 slots, dozens of gaming tables, and is operated by the native Odawa.

Charlevoix

Cruising south around Little Traverse Bay, your final stop will be Charlevoix, after passing beneath a working drawbridge. The picturesque town is set between the bay and the western edge of Charlevoix Lake. One of the best things here are countless beautiful walks to explore. Paths lined with Victorian-style lamps on Bridge Street lead to Pine River Channel, where the north pier juts into Lake Michigan and the south pier leads to a lighthouse and Michigan Beach. On the northern edge of town, Michigan Avenue is known for its elegant historic homes, set on a lake-facing bluff. The community’s active garden club maintains several gardens around town, including a four-mile-long bed of petunias.

Charlevoix has a well-protected harbor and several top-quality marinas. Charlevoix Municipal Marina, (408 Bridge St., 231-547-3272), downtown in East Park; and Irish Boat Shop (13000 Stover Rd., 231-547-9967, www.irishboatshop.com), on the Lake Charlevoix side of town, are both great choices.

Beaver Island (www.beaverisland.org)—just 30 miles from Charlevoix, and Lake Michigan’s largest island—makes for a terrific side trip. The island’s rugged, unspoiled terrain has long made it a favorite summer destination for area residents and is studded with various lighthouses.