Enrich Your ICW Cruise with a Stop in Georgetown, SC

Engross in the delights of South Carolina's Too Often Overlooked Port-of-Call

Written by Claiborne S. Young

Sitting astride the confluence of Winyah Bay and Sampit River, present-day Georgetown constantly calls to mind its storied past. Long the most important South
Carolina port north of Charleston, the town retains the character of bygone years alongside a new spirit of success. Fortunate cruisers who make Georgetown a port
of call will find a quiet, beautiful, and historic town waiting to greet them.
Prior to the Civil War, Georgetown was the seat of a fabulously rich rice culture still remembered with pride and romance. Go quietly as you pass, and perhaps you
may still hear the delicate tinkle of crystal glasses at an elegant garden party or the hoofbeats of the master’s horse as he rides out to check his fields in the
early-morning mist. The heritage of the rice culture is an almost tangible entity here, and you cannot fully appreciate Georgetown and its surrounding streams
without an understanding of this remarkable era.
Anyone who takes a few moments to study the charts will realize that Georgetown is ideally situated to take advantage of waterborne commerce. The waters of the
Black, Pee Dee, Waccamaw, and Sampit Rivers all converge at the port to form Winyah Bay. Together, these waters present a multitude of exploration opportunities
for pleasure cruisers. The various streams—for the most part quite deep and easily navigable—offer many miles of isolated cruising and a host of overnight
anchorage opportunities, as well as a fair share of delightful surprises. Just when it seems that you are truly in the middle of nowhere, the next bend of the
river or creek reveals one of the fabulous plantation houses that have survived the trials of the years. The waters surrounding Georgetown offer the state’s widest array of cruising opportunities north of Charleston. It’s enough to set any true explorer to dreaming.
The rebuilt downtown Georgetown waterfront is simply bursting with shore side attractions, including a potpourri of fine restaurants and interesting shops. This
waterfront, coupled with several excellent marinas and the wonderful homes of Georgetown’s historical district, should inspire every mariner to put a red circle
around this delightful port of call. Those who rush by without making the acquaintance of Georgetown and its rivers will miss one of the greatest cruising
opportunities in all of South Carolina.

Georgetown Docking and Anchoring

What a delight it is to spend an evening, a week, or a month docked on the Georgetown waterfront! Snug in your slip, docked in the shadow of the Rice Museum’s
historic clock tower, you might be excused for forgetting that you are in the twentieth century. Fortunate indeed is the captain and crew who find their way
along Sampit River to Georgetown.
After those glowing words, it must be noted that Georgetown has one genuine problem for visitors. A large paper mill is located on the southwestern portion of the
Georgetown loop along the lower Sampit River. While the prevailing winds tend to keep the worst of the smell away from the city, it’s only fair to note that the
mill is there when the fickle wind chooses not to cooperate, the smell of progress is not so sweet.
Most of Georgetown’s pleasure craft facilities are located adjacent to the downtown business/historic district, on the northeastern portion of Sampit River’s
northern loop. This portion of the stream comprises the town’s principal waterfront. Georgetown’s largest pleasure craft facility is found along the banks of the
Pee Dee River, close by the Highway 17 twin bridges. While the historic and downtown district is a bit far for walking, you can always take a taxi.
Cruising craft are also welcome to anchor on the Sampit River, adjacent to the downtown waterfront and business district. There are multiple opportunities to
dinghy ashore and sample the many delights that this colorful community has to offer.
Put it all together, and what’s not to like. That’s why you should not miss a chance to spend several days docked in Georgetown when your cruising itinerary takes you to
these waters.

Georgetown Marinas

Moving southeast to northwest, the first of the three downtown Georgetown facilities you will come upon is Hazzard Marine, (843-527-3625, www.hazzardmarine.com) After an extensive rebuilding a few years ago, this facility receives my vote for the most improved marina in the South Carolina Lower Country. The last commercial pleasure-craft center on the principal Georgetown waterfront is Harborwalk Marina (843-546-4250, www.harborwalkmarina.com). This facility now features not only excellent dockage, but a brand new shower and laundromat building as well. It should also be noted that Harborwalk Marina is the closest of the commercial waterfront marinas to the downtown historical and business district. Georgetown’s largest pleasure craft facility is not located on the town waterfront. Georgetown Landing Marina (843-546-1776, www.georgetownlandingmarina.com) is found on Pee Dee River’s western shore just south of the U.S. 17 Bridge. It’s a 15 to 20-minute walk from the marina to the historical district and downtown section.

Georgetown Dining

Captains and crew who arrive in Georgetown with a good appetite will find themselves amid an embarrassment of riches. Only Charleston can lay claim to as fine a
collection of good, Low Country style restaurants as those found in Georgetown.
Famished visitors will most certainly want to make the acquaintance of Thomas’s Cafe (703 Front Street, 843-546-7776), close by the historic Rice Museum, for
breakfast or lunch. This longtime favorite serves some of the finest down-home cuisine you will ever enjoy – make sure to try the hot cakes for breakfast.
The venerable River Room Restaurant (801 Front Street, 843-527-4110) occupies a large building astride the midsection of the town waterfront, just beside Francis Marion Park. It is conveniently
located behind Harborwalk’s middle set of floating docks. The seafood is absolutely extraordinary, whether you choose char-grilled catch of the day or a more
elaborate crab casserole. Don’t miss the South Carolina shrimp-and-grits appetizer, and (if you have room left) the peanut butter pie for dessert. A second outstanding Georgetown dining choice is the Rice Paddy (732 Front Street, 843- 546-2021). The wonderful gastronomical attraction is located just across the street from the River Room. The Rice Paddy bar is one of the most inviting places this writer has ever reviewed to unwind after a long day on the water. The main dining room looks out over Front Street and is exquisitely decorated. And the food, well, words almost fail me. It is all that any patron could ask for. If you are into lamb, the Rack of Lamb Moutarde is to die for, and (if it is available during your visit) the Scallops au Gratin is also memorable. There are many other succulent choices, so bring a good appetite. As you are winding your way around Georgetown, don’t be surprised to sniff the heavenly aroma of baking bread. Follow your nose to the charming headquarters of the Kudzu Bakery and Deli (120 King Street, 843-546-1847). Here, you will not only find fresh bread and some of the most scrumptious chocolate chip cookies
imaginable, but also a full deli, fine coffees, and a good wine selection. There are also delectable sandwiches available, and, during clement weather, outside
dining is in the offing at an adjacent courtyard.

Georgetown Historical District

The Georgetown historical district sits on some 220 acres of land and includes approximately 46 historical buildings. Begin your visit with a stop at the local
chamber of commerce and visitor’s center (531 Front St., 843-546-8436). Here, you can obtain complete information on the historical district from the helpful staff. This writer particularly
recommends the pamphlets "A Guide to Historic Sites in Georgetown County, South Carolina" and "A Guide to Historic Tours in Georgetown County, South Carolina."
The latter pamphlet lists dozens of tours. These excursions are perhaps the best method for first-time visitors to get in touch with Georgetown.

Georgetown History
Georgetown was laid out in 1729 by William Swinton at the request of newly appointed Royal Governor Robert Johnson. Under British rule, Georgetown quickly became a prosperous port. England placed bounties on naval stores and indigo, both readily produced in the lands about the port. Shipbuilding began in Georgetown by 1738. As the wealth of the Georgetown merchants increased with expanding trade, it became profitable for them to acquire their
own ships rather than share profits with a shipping agent.
So in 1735, they petitioned the colonial assembly to “set forth the necessity of laying buoys and erecting beacons or landmarks, and maintaining pilot boats to attend the bar of the harbor of Georgetown.” Clearly, the town was well on its way to becoming a bustling port. In December 1774, Georgetown had its own tea party. When local patriots discovered that a ship in the harbor had a cargo of taxed tea in her hold, they demanded that the ship’s master dump his cargo overboard. He soon complied with the less-than-gentle demands of the patriots. While it did not have the far-reaching implications of the more famous Boston incident, the Georgetown Tea Party certainly demonstrated the resolve of the local citizenry. Georgetown was occupied by the British in July 1780. It was not long before Francis Marion, the famed “Swamp Fox” of history and legend, began to strike at the English forces from the dark recesses of the Pee Dee swamps. Marion is credited with being the father of guerrilla warfare.

Following the war, the region’s rice culture began its rapid rise. Free from the constraints of the British trading system and the requirements of war, the Georgetown rice planters began to carve a great empire from the muddy recesses of the tidal swamps. By 1840, the Georgetown region was said to produce 45 percent of all the rice grown in America. Fabulous fortunes were won, and the opulence of the rice culture became a standard for others to envy.
Georgetown was spared the worst pains of battle during the Civil War and little damage was done to the historical buildings. The end of the war saw the beginning of the end of the rice culture. Georgetown suffered through the years of Reconstruction, as did most other Southern cities.
Times were hard until the 20th century, but the town’s economy began to improve when the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) was opened in the 1930s.
Today, Georgetown is a small but busy port that retains, for the most part, its charm and historical character.

And Finally

So now, you have more than a few reasons to pause in your cruise north or south on the ICW and sample Georgetown's many delights. Have breakfast at Thomas's Cafe for me, and be sure to tell the good folks at the Rice Paddy I sent you. Trust me, your cruise will be far richer for your time spent in Georgetown. See you there!