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Hurricanes are nature’s grandest, most ferocious storms. They fascinate us, and they repel us. As a radio news and weather reporter in Miami for 30 years, my grandfather was obsessed with hurricanes. (Confession: I am, too.) Using colored pencils and a wooden ruler, he meticulously plotted their paths onto an enormous paper map tacked up on the wall of his study. It was a beautiful and mesmerizing record of these ferocious and complicated storms that somehow feel alive as they zigzag and wobble across the ocean like drunken sailors.
Science has improved dramatically since my grandfather’s era. A fleet of Earth- observing satellites providing real-time data now help thousands of scientists around the world answer three age-old questions: Where and when will the hurricane hit and how strong will it be? Modern forecasts are pretty accurate. Long gone is the day when a storm could sneak up and hit without any warning. Here are the stories of three men who helped pave the way.
When the regime of Queen Isabella II of Spain collapsed in 1868, many who supported her thought it wise to flee the country. Father Benito Viñes, a Jesuit priest and educator, was one of them. He emigrated to Cuba and found a position as director of the meteorological observatory in Havana. Shocked by the damage hurricanes regularly inflicted upon the island, he made it his mission to learn everything he could about them.
Within five years of arriving, Father Viñes knew more about hurricanes than any living person. He was the first to discover that the cloud pattern and the behavior of the wind well in advance of a storm could be used to track it accurately. Using this information, he designed the “Antilles cyclonoscope,” a kind of slide-rule that could estimate from a considerable distance the current position of a hurricane and calculate its likely path. Up until then, weather observers could tell when a hurricane was coming but not where it was going.
His first forecast was published in a Havana newspaper on September 11, 1875 — two days before an intense hurricane ravaged the southern coast of Cuba. Many lives were saved because of the timely warning. Throughout the 1880s he exchanged hurricane information with other weather observers across the Caribbean via telegraph. It was the first hurricane warning system and a model the United States. Weather Service later emulated it. Father Viñes was so well-respected that for a short time hurricanes were even called Viñesas and identified numerically. The pronunciation, however, was difficult for Americans, so the practice ceased. Father Viñes died in 1893.
Len Povey was a self-taught pilot who flew with the new U.S. Army Air Service until 1922 when he left to pursue a more “colorful” career testing race planes, flying bootleg liquor and barnstorming over the Great Lakes as a headliner with a flying circus. His aerial acrobatics at the All-American Air Maneuvers show in Miami in 1934 caught the eye of a Cuban Air Force official who hired him to train Cuban pilots and serve as the personal pilot for Fulgencio Batista, the chief of the armed forces and later president and dictator of the island nation.
When Cuba’s Weather Service detected a storm intensifying several hundred miles east of the island in early September 1935, Len Povey volunteered to help pinpoint the location and movement of the storm. He jumped in his Curtiss Hawk II, an open cockpit biplane, and flew over the Straits of Florida where he located the hurricane farther north than predicted and moving northwestward toward the Florida Keys. The Cubans dispatched a warning, but it was too late. Later that same day, the storm roared ashore at Islamorada, FL, with winds of 200 m.p.h. and a 20-foot storm surge that drowned more than 400 people, mostly Army veterans who were building the Overseas Railroad.
Povey later joined the faculty at Embry-Riddle, a private Florida college focused on aviation and aerospace programs, where he was a tireless advocate for aerial hurricane patrols. However, the type of reconnaissance mission he envisioned didn’t happen until July 1943, when Air Force Colonel Joe Duckworth flew a plane directly into the eye of a hurricane churning toward Galveston, TX. Len Povey died in 1984. His obituary claimed he survived a mid-air collision and an encounter with a turkey buzzard that sheared off a portion of his plane’s wing.
One of the most recognized voices on hurricanes in the late 20th century emanated ironically from a mile-high lab at Colorado State University. That voice was Dr. William Gray, a professor of tropical meteorology from 1961 until 2005.
Bill Gray grew up in Washington, DC, wanting to be a baseball player. He was a standout pitcher for George Washington University until he hurt his knee. During service in the Air Force, he turned to a career in climatology. He once told the Los Angeles Times he was inspired to study hurricanes after he flew a plane through one off the east coast of Florida in 1958.
Dr. Gray was an outlier when it came to hurricanes. He eschewed computer modeling, focusing instead on observational science: historical storm data, old maps featuring storm patterns, and statistics on wind speed, water temperatures and other meteorological factors. He was the first to determine that the intensity and frequency of storms in the Atlantic was cyclical and that likelihood of a hurricane reaching the East Coast of the United States depended on a variety of factors including the amount of rainfall in Africa and the impact of El Niño (the periodic warming of the Pacific Ocean that produces powerful winds that shear off the tops of storms developing in the Atlantic). In short, he figured out Mother Nature’s recipe for powerful storms.
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In 1984 Dr. Gray unveiled the first Atlantic seasonal hurricane forecast and quickly became a hurricane superstar and media darling. He, however, considered his greatest legacy the students whom he taught and mentored, many of whom went on to become leaders in weather research and forecasting. He died in 2016.
Check out Marinalife's recent article about How Hurricanes Get Their Names.
You don’t need all six of these apps, but we’re certain you’ll find one here that you like. All are available on Google Play and the Apple App Store.
THE WEATHER CHANNEL
Rain radar, storm tracker and severe weather warnings help you prepare for hurricane season, as well as storms and heavy rain. Monitor live radar updates, an hourly rain tracker, storm radar news, and local weather forecast on the go. Free. Available in English and 30 other languages.
NATIONAL HURRICANE CENTER DATA
Official data, custom graphics, updates and maps from National Hurricane Center (NHC) experts. Considered the grandparent of all hurricane trackers. Free. Available in English and French.
WEATHER UNDERGROUND
Reliable, real-time and hyperlocal forecasts combining data from 250,000+ personal weather stations and a proprietary forecast model provide an incredibly accurate local forecast. Interactive radar and customizable severe weather alerts. Free. Available in English and 30 other languages.
CLIME
Previously called NOAA Radar, this is a good hurricane tracker app, because it lets you overlay rain, radar or satellite images on top of the tracker. This gives you a detailed look at what’s happening in the storm. Add multiple locations to the map to get alerted if you’re in the path of a hurricane. Free. Multiple languages. Paid upgrade packages available.
RADARSCOPE
If you’re willing to spend some money on an app favored by weather nerds and professional storm chasers, then check out RadarScope. The learning curve is steeper than with others, but it features high-resolution radar data sourced from NOAA’s next generation radar and Doppler Weather Radar. Available in English, French, German and Spanish.
HURRICANE – AMERICAN RED CROSS
Monitor conditions in your area or throughout the storm track, prepare your family and home, find help and let others know you are safe. Free. Available in English and Spanish.
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We enjoyed a lovely dinner at the home of new neighbors here on the Chesapeake Bay. When we complimented our hostess on the appetizer of fresh oysters, topped with a green pickled relish, she replied, “Thanks. I harvested it all from our beach today.”
We eagerly listened as she shared her coastal foraging venture. She had noticed an abundance of oysters growing in clumps in the shallows close to shore. I had noticed them too, but only as a potential hazard for those without protective water shoes.
Our neighbor simply gathered the oysters at low tide. The unique green oyster topping she served was pickled seaweed from the same shoreline. Through research, she discovered seaweed varieties on our beach are edible. Our beach is known for pesky seaweed. I say “pesky,” because I considered seaweed a distraction from my beach enjoyment. Our hostess had waded into the water, plucked, washed and pickled it with seasoned vinegar and served it as an accoutrement for the oysters. As we sat around the table, enjoying the unique flavors and fresh oysters, I was inspired by her coastal foraging and enthusiasm for the wealth of resources just beyond our front door.
While new to me, coastal foraging is not a new concept. “When the tide is out, the table is set” is a Native American proverb dating back to the 1800s. This adage refers to the wealth of nutrient-rich edible coastal and intertidal marine life.
Seaweed has been part of cultural cuisines and the cosmetic industry throughout history. Packed with nutrients, many consider it a super food. Best harvested at low tide, seaweed can be dried and added to soups or smoothies, pickled with seasoned vinegars and even used for skin care. Varieties including Irish moss, sea lettuce and kelp are common in coastal waterways. Preparation is key, so a little research will serve you well when trying a new recipe or including it in your skin care routine.
Recreational shrimping is a boater-friendly activity. A cast net and access to well-lit docks or piers makes for a good evening netting. Slack currents tend to yield better hauls. Shrimp should be kept alive or on ice until prepped for a meal.
Several species of crab are popular harvest targets. Dungeness crab on the West coast, and blue crab on the East Coast, are favorites. Crabs can be harvested using baited traps or “pots.” In some marinas, a chicken neck or leg tied to a string and a long-handled net, can score you tasty crab for dinner.
Bay scallops are found from New England to Florida and along the Gulf Coast. Their familiar shape, like the iconic Shell Oil gas logo, makes them easy to spot while snorkeling in clear waters near sea grass or at the edge of sandy spots. Scallops can be collected by hand or with a small net. After collecting, place them immediately on ice to prevent spoilage. This also causes the muscles holding the shells closed to relax, making it easier to open the shell. These disc-shaped muscles are the edible portion.
Oysters are a culinary favorite. You can harvest your own when cruising either coast. Oysters develop and grow in beds as they attach to other oyster shells and rocks. Oysters like fresh water running out to a saltwater source, so bays and estuaries tend to be prolific, but any tidal area at low tide will usually expose large numbers for harvesting. Oysters may be difficult to separate from the bed, a good pair of gloves and a stout knife will be helpful. Oyster shells can be sharp, and oyster beds jagged, so be sure to wear protective water shoes or boots when wading out.
Mussels, clams and cockles are found on both coasts and can be collected during low tides by hand or with specialized rakes. Rocky outcroppings and hard-surfaced tidal areas tend to present better gathering success.
All bivalves are filter feeders. Collections should take place in clean, clear waters with adequate tidal flow. Time of year, water temperature and algae blooms can impact safe consumption. Be sure to only collect shells that remain closed until steamed or shucked.
Recreational lobstering can yield fun and food. Spiny lobsters live in warm coastal waters, lack the intimidating claws of their northern counterparts, and can be gathered with minimal gear while snorkeling. Lobsters reside under rock, coral and edges of seagrass beds, and their long antennae can usually be seen protruding from their hiding spot. A common catching technique requires use of a long pole or “tickle stick” to entice them out in the open to be netted.
For all coastal foraging, consult local regulations for size and season limitations, as well as restrictions concerning how to harvest each species. Guidelines and regulations are easily found online in addition to tips and techniques for procuring and preparing your freshly harvested bounty.
Responsible coastal foraging is a wonderful way to not only expand our culinary experiences and provision the galley, but also reduce our impact on the marine environment.
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Consider these online resources for more insight and guidance to make your foraging efforts safe, productive and tasty.
Promotes responsible spearfishing and foraging, and its educational website provides webinars as well as links to recipes and other resources.
Provides a co-op of resources and ideas to help alter our environmental impact. Its coastal foraging articles share harvest and preparation ideas for everything from seaweed to shellfish.
Encourages people to enjoy the waterways and instill appreciation for these ecosystems. Its Coastal Foraging Guide is a good introduction into foraging possibilities. thecoastalside.com/how-to-catch-lobster
For more resources about where, what and how to add coastal foraging to your boating lifestyle, check out the following:
How to Forage your own Seaweed, with a Little Kelp
from our Friends
A Beginner’s Guide to Foraging & Cooking Seaweed
How to Gather Oysters (Tools & Tips)
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For those traveling the Great Loop or cruising from Florida’s panhandle to its west coast, crossing the Gulf of Mexico is often one of the most anticipated stages of the trip.
You can generally choose between two ways to approach the crossing—the Direct Route or Big Bend Route. Both routes typically start in Carrabelle, FL, and end at Anclote Key/Tarpon Springs, FL. The direct route is 150 nautical miles in open water with zero stops. The Big Bend Route covers 224 nautical miles that keeps you closer to the coast and includes several stops.
During our Great Loop, we always had our eyes set on the Big Bend Route. We wanted to see the towns along the coast, and cruising at 7 knots for 20+ hours straight didn’t sound very appealing. The preference for each route depends on the boater, boat (some channels can get skinny) and weather. Because both routes involve cruising in open waters, a good weather window during all of your travel days is highly recommended. We had a great weather window, a 3.5-foot draft and a very fun group of boats to travel with, making the Big Bend Route a perfect choice for us.
After filling up our fuel and water tanks, we attended the nightly meeting-turned-docktails of cruisers who planned to cross the Gulf the next day. At the meeting, we divided into groups based on preferred routes and boat speeds, so we could find our “pack” to travel with. Some boats can go 20+ mph and can do the direct crossing in a day, others may go a little slower and decide to start at night. We had countless options.
We stayed at The Moorings of Carrabelle and formed our pack with two other boats that had a fun crew, went our speed and chose to take the same route as we did. If looking for something to do while waiting to cross, walk or bike to the Bottle House, a pentagon-shaped structure with an accompanying lighthouse made with more than 6,000 glass bottles built by a retired art professor in his backyard. On your way, take a photo at the world’s smallest police station.
Estimated mileage: 7 NM
Instead of starting our crossing directly from Carrabelle, we decided to spend a night at Dog Island East Anchorage, the farthest protected waters from Carrabelle before entering the Gulf. While some start their Gulf crossing straight from Carrabelle, we wanted to have fun on the beach and dinghy around. Plus, it helped take an hour off the longest and most exposed leg of the journey. When approaching the island, follow the charts and use Google map satellite imaging to see where the shallow sections end.
Estimated mileage: 65 NM
Steinhatchee is undoubtedly a sport fishing town. When we pulled up to Sea Hag Marina, we were captivated by the huge fish cleaning stations where fishermen were cleaning their catch from the day. Some restaurants were located about a 1.5 mile walk from the marina, but otherwise we didn’t find much else to see within walking distance. But the marina is protected and a secure place to tie up for the night after accomplishing the longest open water crossing of the Big Bend Route. The four-mile channel for your approach is well marked, but it can get busy with fishing boats.
Estimated mileage: 52 NM
Home to some of the best clam chowder in the country, Cedar Key has no shortage of things to do. It is almost entirely surrounded by water, tucked away in between islands where the town was originally located in the 1800s. You can find coffee shops, art co-ops, seafood restaurants (clamming is the big industry), a wildlife refuge and a local grocery store that has surprisingly good baby back ribs.
Also be sure to check out the cemetery on Atsena Otie Key Island to discover graves of early residents of Cedar Key from the 1800s. We stayed at Atsena Otie Key Anchorage and noted that a few channels flowed in and out of Cedar Key. We took the southern main shipping channel and didn’t have any issues with depth. The anchorage does not have a lot of protection if weather becomes rough.
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Estimated mileage: 36 NM
Manatees can only tolerate water temperatures above 68 degrees, so when the Gulf gets cold in the winter, manatees head up to Crystal River where natural freshwater springs guzzle water at a constant 72 degrees. This means more than 400 manatees come each year to hang in the Crystal River waters and protected areas without being disturbed.
It’s not uncommon to see manatees swim right up to your boat in the anchorage, but the best place to swim with them is a short dinghy, kayak or paddleboard ride up to the entrance of Three Sisters Springs. No boats are allowed in the protected springs, so bring your snorkel set, tie up your boat near the entrance and hop in for the chance to get up close with the manatees. If you’d rather see them by land, grab a shuttle from the Three Sisters Springs Visitors Center downtown to the park.
The town also hosts a selection of fun restaurants and shops, making it worth a stop. Coffee at Cattle Dog Coffee Roasters, lunch at Tea House 650 and seafood at The Crab Plant are some favorites. During this stop, we dropped anchor at Crystal River Anchorage, which is very protected and easy to get into town. Fuel is available nearby, and the pump out boat comes to you. We also noted that the marked channel is about 10 miles long and can be narrow and shallow at parts, so avoid going at low tide.
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Estimated mileage: 64 NM
Anclote Key is the start of the intercoastal waterway on the west coast of Florida and where many boaters anchor for the night after their Gulf crossing if they can’t find a slip in Tarpon Springs. We luckily got a slip and were so glad we did, otherwise we would never have experienced Tarpon Spring’s rich Greek history and natural sponge markets. Attracted by the sponge harvesting industry, Greek immigrants came to Tarpon Springs starting in the early 1900s, and now it has the highest percentage of Greek Americans in the entire country. That means no shortage of excellent Greek food, pastries and culture, as well as a robust natural sponge market. We stayed at Belle Harbour Marina, but Tarpon Springs City Marina is also a great spot.
While the two routes provide different experiences, there really is no “right route.” Whichever way you go, the waters guarantee dolphin action, crab-pot dodging (hopefully not snagged like happened to us), and a celebration when you make it into port.
AS YOU AMBLE THE WHITE BEACHES of the Alabama Coast, you leave footprints on sands that once were the tops of the Appalachian Mountains. Transported south at the end of the last Ice Age, the sand is composed of pure white quartz crystals that create the legendary white sugar grains of Alabama beaches. A casual seaside village, an unspoiled natural island and a genteel cosmopolitan city thrive along the history-rich coastline.
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A dynamic beach town surrounded by water in all directions, Orange Beach is a fishing wonderland nicknamed the “Red Snapper Capital of the World.” From the bayous to the reefs, and all the way out to the oil rigs, catches include several delicacies beside snapper. The abundance of fresh seafood dishes is found everywhere from shore shack to posh resort.
Unable to drag those toes away from the sand? Make tracks for The Gulf, a casual chic seaside hideaway with a unique shipping container design. Hang out at the bar or a communal table sipping and nibbling in the fragrant salty air.
For eclectic Southern and French-inspired dishes, head off the beaten path to Cosmo’s on Canal Road. Live music on the wooden deck makes Cosmo’s a happy hour favorite. Their Banana Leaf Wrapped Fish is on Alabama tourism’s list of “100 Dishes to Eat Before You Die.” Leave room for Soul Lovin’ Puddin’ or Peanut Butter Pie to finish.
Work off some of those Puddin’ calories on one of the 15 trails at Hugh S. Branyon Back Country Trail Complex. The hiking path winds among six distinct ecosystems within its 6,180 acres. For a more leisurely day, soak up the sunshine on one of the many public beaches.
Orange Beach Marina offers two retail stores and two award-winning restaurants. In a fully protected harbor off Terry Cove just minutes from the Gulf at Perdido Pass and the ICW, it accommodates yachts to 130 feet. Nearby Saunders Yachtworks is family-owned and offers a full-service boatyard.
Where to Dock: Orange Beach Marina
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As a barrier island, Dauphin is part of a complex estuarine environment that includes sandy beaches, tidal marshes and shallow lagoons rich in sea life. Attractions on the east end of the island include historic Fort Gaines, the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, Indian Shell Mound Park and Audubon Bird Sanctuary. On the west end are beautiful shimmering beaches, public golf courses and parks shaded by ancient oaks.
Dauphin Island is among the top four spots in North America for viewing spring bird migrations. A wide variety of species rest and recuperate on the 137 acres of the Audubon sanctuary whose unique geographic features include forests, marshes and dunes.
For thousands of years, the abundance of food, fresh water and other essential resources made this area a popular seasonal settlement for indigenous people. Indian Shell Mound Park is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in the south. The mounds are believed to be the remnants of seafood meals consumed by Native Americans between 1100 and 1550. Today, Southeastern tribes maintain an ancestral connection to the ancient mounds’ original occupants.
A few blocks from the park is Light- house Bakery. Housed in an historic home, the front porch is a perfect setting for breakfast or one of their infamous cinnamon rolls with pecans. From there, it’s a short walk to The Hippie Fish boutique for not-too-touristy shirts and jewelry.
Any time of day is perfect for a smoothie, a fresh fruit bowl, an amazing waffle or ice cream at Foxy’s Waffle Bar and Sugar Den. Their motto: ALL CHILL! NO FRILL!
The sunsets on Dauphin Island are totally spectacular. View them from one of the local eateries or pick up the highly rated steamer pot from Skinner’s Seafood on Bienville Boulevard and dine on board as the sun sets.
The 235-slip Dauphin Island Marina sits at the base of Dauphin Island Bridge between the ICW and Mobile Bay. The full-service marina amenities include fuel, maintenance and a restaurant.
Where to Dock: Dauphin Island Marina
Mobile is one of America’s oldest cities, well known for its miles of streets canopied by majestic oaks. The city’s oldest living resident, the massive 300-year-old Duffee Oak, is just one of the city’s many centenarian live oaks. Beneath the hanging branches, large homes with sweeping front porches are adorned with hanging plants, swings and rockers with colorful pillows, and often a huge cat curled around itself.
Mobile celebrated the first Mardi Gras in the New World in 1703, long before the party began in New Orleans. Here it’s a family-oriented festival where Moon Pies are thrown along the parade route. Whether or not you’re in town for Mardi Gras, the Mobile Carnival Museum provides not only an excellent look into the history of one of the country’s oldest festivals, but also the design of the colorful costumes and the elaborate floats.
Beyond the usual must-see tourist stops—the blooms at Bellingrath Gardens, the retired battleship USS Alabama or the comprehensive GulfQuest National Maritime Museum— Mobile offers several unique adventures.
Treasure hunters and bargain chasers flock to the 800 booths spread over 30 acres at the daily Mobile Flea Market. For genuine treasures, the Mobile Museum of Art houses more than 6,400 pieces of American, European and Asian decorative items ranging from contemporary artwork to classical antiquity.
Three centuries of ghosts, hauntings and dark secrets are woven into Mobile’s history. Hear tales of darkness, death and dismemberment on a Dark Secrets Tour of antebellum mansions, overgrown gardens and a church with a mysterious past. The historic Church Street Graveyard is considered one of Alabama’s most haunted cemeteries.
With so much cultural and ethnic diversity in its past and present, Mobile is an excellent place to gain an under- standing of life in the South during the Civil War era. Begin with a narrated tour of the Bragg-Mitchell Mansion, built in 1855. Then take the time to explore more than 40 stops along the Dora Franklin Finley African American Heritage Trail. The historical stories highlighted include early Creoles of color and survivors from the Clotilda, the last African slave ship to enter America in 1860.
Need a break from all the shopping, history and culture? Braided River Brewing Company offers a range of seasonal brews and limited releases. Or, spend the day along the miles of shimmering sand on Mobile Bay accompanied by a colorful beach umbrella and the latest mystery penned by a local author.
The downtown district’s historic buildings, fronted with lacy cast-iron balconies, surround shaded city squares. Art galleries, boutiques and eateries serving traditional Southern cuisine with a sophisticated twist are concentrated along Dauphin Street.
Tuck into A Spot of Tea for daily breakfast, lunch and brunch. While known for its Bananas Foster French toast, (another on one of the state tourism’s “Top 100” lists), the chicken salad is equally notable.
Just down the street is The Noble South, an airy eatery with whitewash walls and orange metal chairs. The brunch menu has irrestibles like Fig Crepes with maple syrup, lemon anglaise and honey roasted pecans.
NoJa, an inviting Mediterranian restaurant housed in an 1840s townhouse, offers seasonal dishes and scrumptious desserts including a Ginger Donut crowned with popcorn ice cream and caramel sauce.
For classic seafood such as shrimp etouffee and gumbo, try Wintzell’s Oyster House which began as a six-stool oyster bar in 1938 and is now a Gulf Coast tradition. Get in the spirit with their signature Dragon Drink, inspired by Vernadean, a beloved fire-breathing Mardi Gras float.
Where to Dock: Dog River Marina
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When the end of the cruising season in the southern Caribbean was upon us, we did what many Caribbean cruisers do: We sailed south for Grenada. We delayed as long as possible, knowing the hurricane season was upon us, but we didn’t want to be forced south. I had one impression of Grenada, and that was of rotting boats and retired sailors. It was a cruisers graveyard, or so I thought, and I was far from accepting an end to our sailing days.
Grenada is the southernmost group of islands in the Lesser Antilles archipelago as well as the name of the main island in a cluster of eight smaller islands and about a dozen smaller islets and cays. The only thing I knew of its geography prior to arriving was that it was one of the few island groups in the Caribbean far enough south to be considered out of the hurricane belt. So, it was ironic that on our first day in the country we had to shelter in the mangroves from a Category 1 storm.
As we lashed our boat Ātea’s bow to densely bound tree roots and secured lines to the cleats of yachts on either side of us, our small unit became part of the larger, unified collective. Little did we realize that this interconnection would be representative of our Grenadian experience.
Safely through the storm, we disbanded and spread out to explore our new surroundings. We completed our clearance in Carriacou, Grenada’s northern sister island, and were amazed to see a hundred or so yachts anchored in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou’s main harbor. I knew Grenada was popular, but if the numbers of boats in Carriacou were anything to judge by, I’d have to cope with much larger crowds when we travelled farther south.
The south coast of Grenada not only provides the most settled weather, but it’s riddled with about a dozen safe harbors from the dominant easterly swell. It’s the reason cruisers gather on Grenada’s south coast and also the reason why they remain. Some stay for hurricane season, some use the island as a base for a few years, others retire from active cruising and either settle or sell. One thing was certain: Grenada was far more than the end of the line.
Before making the journey south, however, we wanted to stretch out the season by adding a short circumnavigation around Carriacou, known as “The Isle of Reefs” to the Kalinago people (the original Island Caribs). We spent our time there dodging bommies (submerged coral reefs) and soaking up the tropical island experience with our feet in the sand, our bellies in the water and our hands on a bottle of rum.
We stopped at Petite Martinique, the third and smallest of the three main islands. There we enjoyed rugged, rocky beaches and side-stepped clusters of goats grazing the green rolling hills as we hiked up Mount Piton for panoramic views of the surrounding islands. We climbed down into the Darant Bay Cave for framed views of the same islands at sea level.
Of course, we couldn’t miss a few sundowners on Mopion, a tiny sand mound rising amid expansive coral reef with a single thatched beach umbrella perched in the center. While technically a part of the Grenadines, its proximity to Petite Martinique made a quick dash across the border for a sip in the shade of this unique little spot a worthwhile experience. Carriacou is an island surrounded by unspoiled reef, and it did not disappoint. A quick tour of her perimeter was the perfect way to salute the end of an amazing Caribbean season.
With a quick stop-over in Ronde Island, a beautiful private island that’s halfway between Carriacou and Grenada, we continued our transit south. Again, I hadn’t prepared myself for the wild beauty of Grenada’s west coast. Mile after mile of dense, lush forest cascade down the leeward side of the island from peak to sea.
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We hugged the coastline as we sailed the 13 miles down the west coast, looking up at 2,700 feet of volcanic rock and shear waterfalls that fed small rivers that ran down the slopes of the mountainous interior to the coast. While Grenada is well reputed as a tourist destination for holidaymakers seeking either a sun- drenched party or quiet refuge on one of its 45 beaches, I knew from sailing the coast that my preferences would draw me inland.
Grenada’s coastline contains many large bays, but most yachts head for safe anchorage behind one of the many narrow peninsulas that split up the southern coastline. As we pulled into Prickly Bay, the first of Grenada’s southern harbors, I knew from the crowd of yachts that I would escape to the interior as soon as possible. As it turned out, I didn’t get that chance. As soon as we dropped anchor, we were invited ashore for a cruiser’s jam session to reconnect with friends from past seasons.
The following day we crammed into the back seat of a taxi on our way to an event for the annual Chocolate Festival, and our schedule quickly filled after that with tours of cocoa plantations, cocoa grinding competitions, chocolate tastings and chocolate drawing contests. In additional to the island’s cultural events, we were also immediately drawn into the cruiser’s social scene.
On our first week of arrival our mornings were already booked into early morning yoga and bootcamp on the beach. The kids joined a cruiser’s homeschooling collective and regular extracurricular activities that were held under the shade of the trees. If we weren’t listening to live music or joining the locals’ beach barbecues in the evenings, we were sitting poolside and sipping beers from a $5 bucket with other cruisers at Le Phare Bleu, a boutique hotel that opened its amenities and services to cruisers during the pandemic.
Every morning offered an activity, and every evening we joined a social get-to-gether, so the weeks flew by in a social extravaganza unlike any we’d experienced. As yachts gather in Grenada every year for the hurricane season, the regularity of this influx of boats resulted in a solid cruising community and a variety of services and events. Far more than a collection of retired boats and sunburnt seamen, my preconceived notions of Grenada didn’t come close to the reality of the vibrant cruising network that existed on this popular island.
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As we made new friends and reconnected with old ones, we really enjoyed the buzz that the tight community offered.
Pulling myself out of continuous activity took a concerted effort, but I eventually dragged the family off the beach and up the mountains.
After our trip into the interior, I developed a new passion for my time in Grenada: A short bus journey followed by a hike into the forest would lead us to one of Grenada’s many waterfalls. Unlike other tourist destinations where fees were handed over and you’d stand under falls next to groups of other tourists, we had the rivers for free and all to ourselves. Some of the trails were near the road, and we’d hop on and off a bus to walk the short distance to the falls. Others, such as Seven Sisters and the Concord Falls, required planning as it took a full day to hike in and out of the forest, clambering up steep banks and crisscrossing the river to wind through deep forest and get a view from the top.
Each part of the river that ran down from one of the six inland lakes had its own magic, and I was enthusiastic to see what each had to offer. Later I appreciated all that I’d experienced of Grenada’s inland beauty. As I paid $20 per person to stand in crowds under cascading water at Costa Rica’s most popular waterfalls, I couldn’t help but compare it to all that I’d seen in Grenada’s secluded, remote interior.
In additional to nature, we explored some of the historical roots of Grenada’s past. Grenada’s original economy was based on sugar cane and indigo, and with that, slaves were imported in the mid-17th century to work and harvest crops. We set out to search for some of the old plantation houses and slave pens that remained from that period, which took us on a wild tramp through the backstreets of quiet neighborhoods and into unmarked bush to find these lost relics.
It was quite the education for our children to see small, dank, windowless, stone slave quarters set behind grand old houses, a potent reminder of darker times in this beautiful and vibrant country. We also smelled and sampled some of Grenada’s current crops, nutmeg, mace and cocoa at the top of the list of exports, and enjoyed local culinary treats such as oil down, a vegetable stew that is the country’s national dish. Thanks to these excursions we can say that Grenada is, both figuratively and literally, full of sugar and spice.
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Cruising often leaves you tied to the boat and, therefore, the sea. Grenada offered a wonderful period of enjoying the most of both land and sea in equal balance, so we were able to get the most of what the country has to offer. To see the beaches but not the forest, lakes and rivers offers only half the experience; likewise, to spend time inland but not explore the coast leaves only half an impression. As Grenada offers safe anchorage throughout the hurricane season, cruisers remain nearby for an extended period, sharing experiences and building friendships. This is unique for a community that is typically very transient, and it offers plenty of opportunity to create a home away from home atmosphere.
In addition, suitable yacht services are available, so that time spent waiting for the next season gives everyone a chance to get much needed repair work done. Far from being the end of the line, Grenada offers an interim rest stop where friendships are forged and yachts are restored on an island that offers a range of activities and opportunities both on and above the waterline.
Article and photos by Kia Koropp
If a West Coast trip is on your list, the largest recreational harbor should be at the top. The complex of Newport Beach, CA, is made up of multiple “villages’’ around the bay and farther south down the coast of Orange County. These smaller areas are Balboa Peninsula, Lido Marina Village, Mariner’s Mile, Balboa Island, Corona del Mar, Newport Center, Newport Coast and The Islands of Newport Harbor.
Balboa Peninsula, which separates Newport Bay from the Pacific Ocean, is home to the Wedge, a world-renowned destination for bodysurfing. Thanks to its beautiful weather, water sports are possible year-round. On the other end of Balboa Beach, you’ll find one of two piers on Newport Beach, including Balboa Pier with Balboa Fun Zone just across the street. The Oceanfront Walk on Balboa Peninsula is the quintessential beach trail, ideal for walking, running or biking along the water.
If you’re in the mood for hiking, the Newport area is riddled with trails. For some rugged and stunning views, make the journey to The Upper Newport Bay Nature Preserve where wildlife and rocky cliffs abound. Nature lovers also have the opportunity at Newport Beach to go whale watching and visit the Environmental Nature Center.
For your shopping pleasure, Fashion Island in Newport Center is a high-end mall serving as a one-stop-shop. Try not to shop until you drop at the mall, as the boutiques, galleries and other shops dispersed throughout the villages, especially at Lido and Balboa Island, are also worth a visit.
Top off your day at the beach with a classic Balboa bar ice cream and find a place to watch the sunset before heading to Corona del Mar as night falls to cozy up at the fire circles.
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CRC Marinas
With a total of 455 boat slips, upscale amenities and exclusive beachfront access, the Newport Harbor boasts four locations operated by CRC Marinas. From
west to east along Newport’s main channel, you can find Bayshore Marina, Balboa Marina, Villa Cove Marina and Bayside Marina, all with easy access to dining, local attractions and luxury resorts.
Nobu
949-429-4440
If you’re looking for a dining experience even celebrities would be envious of, reserve a table at the iconic Japanese restaurant for world-class sushi and a stunning view of the Lido Marina.
Tavern House Kitchen & Bar
949-673-8464
Two veteran Orange County restaurateurs, David Wilhelm and Gregg Solomon, offer beautiful meals with a view at this waterside location. Tavern House’s menu is dominated by seafood dishes and comfort food.
Eddie V’s Prime Seafood
949-720-9925
With an in-house sommelier, your meal will be a perfectly balanced California experience. Steak and fresh seafood, served with a side of live music, is the name of the game at Eddie V’s.
Beachcomber Cafe
at Crystal Cove
949-376-6900
Only steps from the sand this tropical eatery specializes in California fare and has a bar with a thatched roof that compliments cool, summery cocktails.
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