You wouldn't go to Boston for gumbo or consider crab cakes in Nebraska. No matter where you dock your boat this summer, get the scoop on specialty seafood and pick the perfect dish.
It's hard to imagine that lobsters were once considered a poor man's food. In Colonial New England, lobsters grew so abundantly that they were fed to children, prisoners and indentured servants. Many Massachusetts servants put clauses in their contracts stating that employers could not serve lobster more than three times a week. In the mid-1800s, high-society diners in New York and Boston took a liking to this tasty crustacean and elevated lobsters to a delicacy.
Species of lobsters appear in every ocean, but the cream of the crop comes from the Atlantic waters of Maine and Canada, where more than half of the world's supply is harvested. Lobster fishing season in North America peaks twice a year, in late spring and the fall. Even though visitors look forward to the summer ritual of a lobster boil, it's not necessarily the best time of year for cracking claws. That's when lobsters migrate into warm waters to molt and mate, so they're hungry and not as tasty.
Lobster purists insist that a steaming pot of water with a dash of salt is the best way to prepare this savory seafood, because it brings out the natural flavors. But regional cooks like to play around with lobster to create dishes for both the white linen crowd and the casual diner. Lobster Newberg, which was allegedly created at New York City's renowned Delmonico Restaurant in the 1870s, is a dish designed for special occasions. Its simmering blend of tail meat, butter, heavy cream, cognac and a pinch of cayenne pepper is a rich decadent delight.
Yet, some prefer simpler recipes. The lobster roll, pieces of lobster mixed with mayo, celery, and lemon juice, and tucked inside a toasted kaiser roll, is an ideal summer lunch at a beach in Cape Cod.
Since the Middle Ages, the scallop shell has been the symbol of St. James. Christians who made pilgrimages to his shrine wore a scallop shell on their clothes or on a string around their neck. When they stopped to rest, pilgrims were allowed to scoop a shell's worth of food at churches, castles or homes along the way. Centuries later, when French cooks combined scallops with mushrooms, cream, wine and parmesan cheese, they named the savory dish "Coquilles de St. Jacques," or Scallops St. James, after the holy man and his followers. Like the medieval pilgrims, scallops want to roam. Other bivalves, such as oysters, mussels, and clams, latch onto a surface and spend their lives in one place. Scallops are free-swimming mollusks that flit about the waves by opening and closing their shells with their adductor muscle. This powerful muscle is what we eat. Scallops come in two different varieties. The larger sea scallops, which can grow up to eight inches in diameter, are found in the North Atlantic from Newfoundland to North Carolina. They cost less but are ideal for quick grilling or pan frying to a golden brown.
Bay scallops, which reside in bays and estuaries from New England to the Gulf of Mexico, have a sweeter taste and only hit the 4 inch mark. Sea scallops are gathered from fall to spring, whereas bay scallops are ripe in autumn.
Northwest Native American folklore believed the salmon are people in fish form with supernatural abilities and eternal lives. They resided in beautiful homes under the sea, but offered themselves to tribes on land as a source of food, as long as humans treated them with respect and allowed their spirits to return to the sea.
This legend illustrates salmons' unique behavior of being born in fresh water, living in the ocean's salt water, and then returning to rivers and streams to spawn and die. This cycle of life takes place on both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. Almost 99% of Atlantic salmons are farm-raised, but nearly 80% of western salmon are caught in the wild.
Salmon is a hit with healthy eaters, because it is high in omega-3 acids and vitamin D. Plus, it's considered a fatty fish, which helps combat cholesterol and heart issues and works well for grilling.
If you travel to the West Coast this summer, you'll discover that salmon recipes mirror the region's diverse cultures and influences. California, with its large Asian population, is known for pressing fresh salmon into sushi rolls or grilling filets with soy sauce, garlic, brown sugar and chives. In the Northwest, Native Americans like to roast salmon on cedar planks, the same way their ancestors did for centuries.
Our planet is home to 4,500 species of edible crabs snow, Dungeness, queen, red rock, Chinese mitten, and Pacific spider crabs, to name a few. Dipped into melted butter, every one of them tastes divine. However, U.S. crab eaters fall into two distinctly different camps: Maryland blue crabs fans or King crab devotees. One is East Coast driven, the other stems from the West Coast.
Regional distinctions are as different as day and night. Maryland blue crabs, the runt of the crab species litter, are small in stature but big in flavor. They swim along the western edge of the Atlantic Ocean from Nova Scotia to Argentina, and the Gulf of Mexico, but most are pulled from Louisiana, Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina waters. They mate and then hibernate in the mud from October to April. When water temperatures rise above 50 degrees, they emerge with a feisty gusto and crab season begins.
Maryland natives express strong opinions about cooking their home-grown crabs. Steamed for 25 minutes with hefty shakes of Old Bay seasoning is the best way to go. Piping hot crabs fanned out on a picnic table with brown paper and wooden mallets is a summer rite of passage. When the meat is molded into crab cakes, green pepper or bread crumb filler is seriously frowned upon, because locals want to savor every bite of the tender, sweet crustacean. Soft shells crabs that have just shed their hard outer shells are dusted with flour, fried to a crunchy brown, and then laid between two slices of white bread with a swipe of mayo. Crispy legs that dangle out from the crust taste like a tiny bite of the Chesapeake Bay. Stone and king crabs are all about the legs. These prized crustaceans are found around the Pacific Rim from eastern Korea to northern British Columbia and the Bering Sea, Aleutian Islands, Gulf of Alaska, Sea of Okhotsk, and Kamchatka shelf. Fishing season lasts from October to January. King crabs reign supreme among this species, a and the long spindly legs turn a creamy white color with red accents when steamed, and they're considered one of Neptune's greatest gifts to mankind.
Whether you call them craw daddies, crayfish or crawfish, everybody knows you're talking about a distant relative of the lobster that has deep roots in Louisiana and Gulf Coast cuisine. Locals say the best time to eat them is spring (mid- March to mid-May) when water temperatures rise above 60 degrees, and the adults are hell-bent on mating and the babies aren't yet born. They're juicier then and have more meat on them. From August to February, shells become tough and harder to peel.
To eat like a Cajun, look for a Louisiana crawdad boil with corn on the cob, potatoes, andouille sausage, mushrooms and onions cooked together in a big old pot with a dash of hot sauce or seasonings. If you want to run like the local herd, pinch the crawfish tail to get every morsel of meat and suck the brains from the head to have a full-flavor experience. A cool bottle of Abita beer helps muster enough courage to take the first slurp of the head.
Another Big Easy favorite, Crawfish Etouffee, offers an option for the less daring. Its name comes from the French word to smother, and aptly describes the thick stew of plump crawfish in a thick blonde roux served over rice with fresh chopped scallions. A slice of hot French garlic bread along with an icy Hurricane, and you'll be singing tunes along with the zydeco band.
Remnants of a “Vote Against Prohibition” sign still linger in faded letters on a brick wall in Baltimore — a true representation of the city’s historical love for a brew.
From the clipper ships that brought beer from Germany during the Revolutionary War to the birthplace of the beloved Natty Boh, Baltimore is not only rich in maritime and war traditions — it’s also known as a beer city.
Baltimore boasts a nice selection of well-known bars and swanky restaurants, but you may not realize how many experimental breweries and eclectic taprooms are located just down the street.
From serving ice-cold pints on a hot summer day to offering taproom tastings and outdoor events, these local breweries present unique, homemade craft beers in an entertaining atmosphere. The following locations explore antique structures, historic warehouses and a barn-turned-brewhouse in Baltimore City and County.
1215 E. Fort Avenue
Locust Point
A garage-style window opens above high-top seating in this south Baltimore brewery — a perfect summertime hangout. The experimental production brewery serves unfiltered lagers, hop forward ales and pizza in a lively urban atmosphere. Try the Maple Thief oatmeal stout, the Green Machine IPA or the American Locust Point Lager alongside a signature seasonal scratch-made house pizza such as the Howard, made with pulled duck confit, smoked provolone, onion, parsley and “Pee-Paw’s Secret BBQ Sauce.”
1900 E. Lombard Street
Upper Fells Point/Highlandtown
The stunning structure of the former St. Michaels Church in East Baltimore has high ceilings lined by archways with golden trim, colorful murals and a gorgeous organ on the second floor balcony overlooking an open space where pews used to sit. Originally opened in 1857, this church that once provided refuge to German Catholics was abandoned in 2011 and is now one of the city’s hottest brewery hangouts. Long beer hall-style tables and high-tops now fill the spacious renovated church. Biblical scriptures are written above where the taproom’s bar serves a selection of rotating beers such as the Old Maude brown ale, The Point pilsner and 9.9 Problems imperial stout.
1106 N. Charles Street
Mount Vernon
This hip and artsy brewery matches the vibe of the quirky neighborhood and local community. Built as a private residence in the early 1900s, the vintage townhouse remains in the same classical style as it looked centuries ago with a slight transformation into a cozy taproom. Each room provides a different feel from the upscale dining room to the gritty Downbar and the cozy upstairs lounge. While most breweries only offer beer, this location pours everything from house brews to red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, and craft cocktails.
5604 York Road
Govans
This neighborhood brewery is all about live music, tasty drinks and providing a fun social atmosphere. Hosting everything from yoga classes to live acts and comedy shows, the brewery offers a full event calendar throughout the year. They often cater parties and sponsor fundraisers such as partnerships with Baltimore Animal Rescue & Care Shelter (BARCS) and Art with a Heart. The taproom is known for two famous brews: Hops the Cat American IPA and Dan’s Jams, a Swedish Fish sour ale. Complement your brew with spicy wings, honey sriracha-glazed Brussels sprouts or a juicy Full Tilt burger.
8901 Yellow Brick Road, Suite B
Rosedale
As Baltimore icon Edgar Allan Poe was known for frequenting local city bars, this brewery pays homage to the writer with its own spin on classic American and German-style beer. Founder Stephen Demczuk began brewing when he was in Europe. Inspired by Poe’s writings, Demczuk named his concoctions after the famous literature. Variations include Annabel Lee White, a Belgian-style white beer with citrus, The Raven Special Lager, The Tell Tale Heart IPA and The Cask, a Bavarian double style IPA.
4615 Hollins Ferry Road
Halethorpe
Maryland breweries wouldn’t exist today if it weren’t for Heavy Seas founder Hugh Sisson. He pioneered the state’s first brewpub and helped pass laws allowing them to operate. This southwest Baltimore County location began as Clipper City Brewing in 1995, then later rebranded as Heavy Seas. Hang out at the bar, grab a burger from Koopers food truck or play cornhole in the game room. On Saturdays, listen for the bell ringing in the taproom for free tours. They also hold charity fundraisers and work with local artists who design the unique beer can graphics. The brewery has big plans this season to redesign the outdoor space with new landscaping and a patio area.
5101 Washington Boulevard
Halethorpe
As the first-ever Guinness brewery in the United States, this historic site was home to a distillery before the Dublin-based brewer arrived in 2017. Experience traditional and seasonal flavors made with hops from all over the world, as well as locally sourced ingredients. Most brews are made with Legacy Ale Yeast, used by Guinness for 100 years. Be sure to try the signature Baltimore Blonde, brewed here exclusively. Enjoy the three-acre outdoor beer garden, outdoor kitchen, taproom, restaurant, events such as summer movie nights, 30-minute tastings of four different beers, and free tours.
3100 Black Rock Road
Reisterstown
Deep within Baltimore County’s horse country, this working farm raises horses and cattle, and grows hay, fruits, vegetables and row crops. This family-run brewery resides at the gorgeous Willowdale Farm, where a 3.5-barrel brewhouse is open for tours. Surrounded by horse pastures, barns and acres of farmland, a nine-stall horse stable was converted into a tasting room. Guests can picnic and enjoy the day strolling through a beautiful orchard.
Lobster
New England and Canada are known as major lobster hubs along the Atlantic, and Maine is one of the most famous regions in the world for these mouth-watering delicacies. For the freshest catch, Maine's top lobster-loving towns include Rockland, Bar Harbor, Belfast, Georgetown, Harpswell, Kennebunk and Ogunquit.
Crab
More than 6,000 species of crabs across the world vary in everything from appearance to taste. For example, Maryland crab fans meticulously pick the meat from under the crab's shell, while in Florida, they split open the legs and claws for a tasty treat. To experience the best Maryland blue crabs, visit cities such as Baltimore and Annapolis, as well as Kent Island on the Chesapeake Bay's Eastern Shore and Solomons Island in southern Maryland.
Lobster
Although they are mostly ocean creatures, lobsters do frequently appear on land and sea. They are omnivores and sometimes eat their own when confined or stressed. You can find them throughout the world's oceans in freshwater and brackish environments. Some of the most delicious species are caught in the Gulf of Maine and along coastal Nova Scotia.
Crab
Typically found in saltwater or brackish water, thousands of different crab species live in all of the world's oceans. Like lobsters, some are land-crawlers. Many solely live in the water and others inhabit the edges along rocks and sandy shores. The best crustacean havens for crabbing include Maryland, Virginia and Delaware. Florida stone crabs are found in southern waters in shallow, rocky locations including knee-deep seagrass beds and reefs.
Lobster
The sweet taste of lobster pairs well with your taste buds in any variation. Cook it in a gamut of dishes from steaming, grilling or boiling, to chopped-up in a warm soup or cold salad. Some of the most famous classics include a New England lobster boil, baked lobster tail, lobster mac and cheese, creamy bisque and much more.
Crab
Pick-and-eat crab feasts are a beloved pastime across the mid-Atlantic region. Catch, steam, season, crack open and scarf down! Use a mallet to break the claws open and get the good thick meat. Two varieties of crab soup creamy or tomato-based are popular along the East Coast, as well as dishes such as crab dip, crab Rangoon, crab pretzels and best of all the world-famous Maryland crab cakes.
Lobster
Lobsters actually have two stomachs and can detach a limb and grow it back during their molting cycle. Today, lobsters are among the pricier seafood selections and are considered a delicacy, but that wasn't always the case. In early 19th century New England, lobsters were so abundant that their shells were used as fertilizer and their meat was fed to pigs as scraps.
Crab
Crabs are typically an aggressive crustacean and often fight with other crabs and aquatic creatures. They can walk in any direction and mostly scurry sideways. Unlike lobsters that can live to age 100, Atlantic crabs only survive for three to four years. Dungeness Crabs from Alaska can live up to 13 years, and the Japanese spider crab has the longest lifespan of all its fellow crustaceans, often reaching 80 to 100 years old.
Before embarking on the Great Loop, my husband Tim and I lived in New York City, which helped prepare us somewhat for life on the water. We took our clothes to a laundromat, hand washed our dishes, and understood the challenges of living in a small space. But given it's one of the culinary capitals of the world, living in Manhattan didn't teach us how to cook. Since living on our boat, a 31-foot 1996 Camano Troll named Sweet Day, we had to change our relationship with the kitchen, which means we actually had to use it. Here's what we learned.
While cruising the Great Loop, we imagined tiki bars and restaurants dotting the shorelines everywhere we stopped. This is definitely true in some parts. But more times than expected, we found ourselves nowhere near a place to grab a meal, much less a grocery store.This means we've learned how to build meals with what we have onboard. We also realized that as long as we have flour and a little butter, homemade tortillas can easily transform a couple sides into tasty tacos and easily impress neighbors at the next docktail party.
In the daily hustle of our lives in the city, we ended up wasting a lot more food than we'd like to admit. The opposite has been true while cruising. We typically buy enough fresh food for three to four meals, because that's all we can fit in our fridge. A home-cooked dinner is easily stretched to lunch the next day. And since we travel with our fridge, leftovers never get left behind.
We have a small propane oven and a three-burner stove. We can use these with barely any electricity, making cooking underway and at anchor seamless. When we're plugged into a marina or if we run our generator, we can also use our microwave (when it's not being used as a food pantry).Some cruisers have Instapots and other gadgets, but our boat isn't set up to handle that amount of electricity. Plus, we don't have the space. So, we've had to learn (with a lot of practice) how to cook juicy chicken or tender salmon without the benefits of modern cooking technology.
One of the biggest (and underrated) benefits of cruising is that your stuff travels with you, including your kitchen. This means we can make a marinade while cruising and cook the chicken at anchor that night. Or knead a loaf of bread underway to make sure it's ready to bake the next day. Plus, you never have to worry about forgetting olive oil or spices when on a trip. Spending time and experimenting in the kitchen helps break up those long cruising days too, all while rewarding us with a tasty meal once we reach our destination.
One quirk of our galley is we can only run the oven or the stove, as our propane system can't support running both at the same time. As a result, it requires knowing the recipe and its steps in advance to ensure we have the right equipment and ability to cook the meal. If the meal is good enough to be part of the rotation, the steps become easier to remember the next time we cook it.
Just like land life, there are days when we may feel excited about prepping and cooking a more time-intensive meal, and others when we're hungry, it's 7:00 p.m. and we just need to get something in our stomach. In New York, that meant heading downstairs for a slice of pizza.
That doesn't work while cruising. Learning what meals take time (especially in Sweet Day's kitchen) and what meals can be thrown together quickly (hello mac and cheese and tuna fish) is extremely helpful. When we're stocking up on food, we make sure we have enough of those go-to meal items for those inevitable times when we just need something fast.To help you stock your galley, here are some of our favorite items:
Here's our go-to recipe for an easy batch of tortillas. Some of our favorite ingredients for stuffing inside are pantry staples black beans and rice or roasted sweet potatoes with a charred scallion crema (Greek yogurt, mayo and scallions charred on a hot skillet).
INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
Recipe is from King Arthur Baking Company, kingarthurbaking.com/recipes/simple-tortillas-recipe. To follow Kate and Tim Carney's cruising adventures aboard Sweet Day, go to lifeonsweetday.com or @lifeonsweetday on Instagram.
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