Cruising Stories

Greek Ioanian Coast - An odyssey of amorous adventure and unrivaled beauty


Elnicki Wade

WHEN EMILY PATERAKIS walked into the room, her husband Yanni smiled in her direction and said, "See that woman? She's my wife, and I'd marry her all over again." In a heartwarming, unconventional way, Yanni did just that. Not with the trappings of a ceremony to renew their vows; instead, he swept her away on a journey that they would treasure forever.

Navagio Shipwreck Beach In Zakynthos | Greek Ioanian Coast | Marinalife

Last September, Yanni took his bride of 38 years to the Greek Ioanian Coast, where his family's story began. His grandfather harkened from Chios, and his grandmother came from Samos, a pair of windswept islands on the Aegean Sea. After immigrating to Baltimore, his grandfather worked in a bakery, and the Paterakis family generations grew the business. Yanni was just a boy when he first made bread and rolls in the shop alongside his father, uncles and brothers.

At age 16, Yanni first visited his Greek ancestral homeland, and many years later, he and Emily enjoyed an Aegean cruise with their three children. But this trip would be different. This time, the two of them would break from the familiar and let wanderlust rekindle their spirits. Together they charted a route to places less traveled and would explore the intimate islands, timeless villages and romantic seaside of Greece.


Their choice of destination was made easy by the country's geographic differences. Greece's commercialized Aegean coast offered the bustle of Athens and crowds of tourists clambering on antiquities. The Ionian Sea to the west presented a more authentic Greek experience, where Yanni and Emily could cruise the shoreline surrounded by gentle winds and balmy waters. They would be travelers who could stop at whim, indulge spontaneity, absorb the unique seaside culture and marvel at the islands' breathtaking beauty.

Soon their itinerary was set. They chartered a 52-foot-long by 27-foot-wide catamaran and island-hopped, starting in Corfu, cruising to Paxos, Antipaxos, Cephalonia, Zakinthos, Ithaca, Lefkada and Meganisi, and taking mainland excursions in Syvota and Vrachos.

The plan enabled Yanni to delve deeper into his Greek heritage and witness parts of himself in his Mediterranean roots. Emily's personal warmth and grace would shine among the people they met, while her affinity for the outdoors would help her unearth a spirituality in nature. They would discover a new side of Greece -- and a lot about each other.

ENTERING POSEIDON'S PLAYLAND - Final Legs of the Greek Ioanian Coast

Yanni and Emily's airplane touched ground on Corfu, an island off the northwest coast of Greece where shipwrecked Odysseus sought safe haven from the storms. Two mountains topped with fortresses stand guard over Byzantine churches, 18th century palaces, archaeological museums and ruins, and beaches lined with golden sand and lush foliage.

The Grecotel Corfu Imperial, a luxury resort surrounded by azure waters and an alluring environment, was their first stay in Corfu. After savoring a stunning view of boats bobbing in the harbor, they indulged in long swims in a cove of the Ionian Sea and worked up an appetite for dinner at Contessa's, a restaurant that features traditional Greek dancing.

While waiting for their adventure to begin, they strolled the town's cobblestone streets, taking time to visit shops, meet the locals and sample bites of fresh ingredients at every meal. Fresh figs and olives from the produce market were divine. A drive to Palaiokastritsa on winding roads revealed goats meandering through olive tree orchards, bougainvillea draping colorful branches across grape arbors and vineyards sprawling across the countryside. After stopping at an olive oil production orchard, they enjoyed a sunset dinner at Eremitis Bar & Restaurant along the water.

At this port, as well as other towns on their journey, Yanni stopped at bakeries. The comforting aromas and irresistible pastries and breads brought back memories of home and sparked ideas for his business back in Baltimore. Fluent in Greek, his conversations with bakers and shop owners were lively, and new friendships were easily made.

After drinks and appetizers at the Olympia Café & Bar, they headed to the marina and set sail on the catamaran with friends from Baltimore. A traditional dinner of lamb, potatoes, Halloumi cheese, Greek salad and anise bread with pungent Greek organic olive oil welcomed them to the Ionian Sea. They arrived in Syvota, another picturesque town where the travelers began to unwind. An evening visit to the private Voutoumi Beach was magical.

The next stop was the Blue Caves of Paxos and Antipaxos. Photos cannot prepare guests for the astonishing seascape at these Ionian island gems. Mountainous white cliffs, which could only have been carved by the mighty hand of God, rise out of deep, turquoise water. According to legend, Poseidon's marble palace was in Ahai, one of the caves of Paxos.The crew tied ropes around huge gray rocks to offer easy access to and from the boat. Feeling as if they had entered a movie set, they relished the setting and dove into the pristine water. Snorkeling, swimming to the beach or drifting on a noodle was plenty of entertainment amidst such spectacular surroundings. Emily built a rock altar in gratitude for such a glorious day. Meals of just-caught calamari, octopus and fresh lamb with hummus were devoured after an invigorating swim.

The following day brought them to the private beaches near Lefkada, where the sea almost outshone the sky by sporting a stunning sapphire blue hue. Diving off the boat, they swam to shore and explored the Blue Caves. Feeling bold and invincible, they dove off towering Foki Bay Cliffs and ended the evening at Fiskordo's. Tying two lines to the dock next to a fleet of gorgeous 100' yachts, they snacked on frozen yogurt with walnuts, cinnamon and local honey, while Chef Costa prepared pan-seared fresh local Mediterranean Lavraki fish.

Cruising south, the catamaran docked at Pera Pigadi near the lower tip of Ithaca Island. They slept in late and awakened to rocking waves and the melodies of the sea. After a breakfast of eggs scrambled with Kasseri cheese, onions and local fruit, they sailed north through clear blue waters to Ithaca, home of Odysseus, the hero of the ancient Greek myth, The Odyssey. Inspired by the historic setting, Captain Yiannis captivated the crew with tales from Greek mythology about Helen of Troy, Achilles, Athena and Zeus. Continuing north, they passed the tiny Atokos Island, which is inhabited by goats that roam the gentle green terrain above dramatic white cliffs and pristine beaches.

Heading back toward Syvota, they ventured ashore to swim at the massive and astonishingly beautiful Papanikolis Cave at Meganisi, which is Greece's second largest cave with an arched ceiling of layered rock dating back centuries. The hour-long cruise back to Lefkada lead them past the Greek mainland and through lochs teeming with sailboats and other catamarans. They paused along the way to take a dip at Two Rocks Bay, Acherontas, and admire the beaches and coves between mountains at Ammoudia.

Landing in Parga Harbor, they sipped drinks at Il Posto, and the breezes of a warm night lured them into sleeping on the bow under the stars. The next day, they visited Dimtri's butcher shop where fresh ground lamb was made into soutzoukakia (meatballs). The local market provided garden vegetables, and Achilles Bakery rounded out the feast with just-baked delicacies.

One day blended easily into the next. Under the warm rays of the sun, they fed pieces of bread to fish to catch them only with a hook and string -- the traditional Greek way. They lounged on white sand beaches, dipped in and out of the waves, and explored secret coves far away from signs of humanity. Evenings in coastal villages were filled with life's simple pleasures: savoring candle-lit dinners, dancing to Greek music, and sharing stories with new and old friends.

Paxos provided a plethora of beach experiences for the crew. Kipiadi Beach, the longest stretch of sand on the island, offers stellar views of the seaside landscape. There they witnessed a spectacular sunset at Romantica rooftop bar that overlooks a harbor filled with boats of all shapes and sizes. In Bella Vraka Beach, they swam to a quaint cove with a sandbar in the middle of two beaches. A curious goat licked salt off Emily's hand after a long swim. Lunch of octopus and olives was followed by a dip in Blue Lagoon and a tour of Notos Garden, which presents a stunning panoramic view with pink bougainvillea boughs draping over the forest walkway.

For an inland excursion, they drove to the traditional mountain village of Volimes, best known for its olive oil, honey and hand crafts. They travelled through acres of olive groves to Navagio or Shipwreck Beach and Agios Nickolas on Zakynthos, a village dating back to the 16th century. The next day delivered them to the secluded Agia Pelagia Beach and Xygia Beach, and they dined at Nobelos, where the restaurant owner shared stories about the Greek way of life.

As the journey was coming to an end, Yanni hired a 22' yacht from Lesante Blu, and they cruised around the entire island of Zakynthos. The village of Agalas, on the west coast of the island, wowed them with pine and olive trees dotting the landscape and three dramatic caves imbedded in the rocky coastline.

When they arrived at the Corfu Airport, Yanni and Emily learned that their return flight had been delayed. Instead of letting disappointment erase the bliss of a dream vacation, they took the postponement as a blessing that granted one more night in Athens dancing romantically at the St. George Hotel. They climbed up to the highest point in Athens, Lykavittos St. George Church, where the annual Easter pilgrimage is held. The views overlook the amber lights of the city and the Aegean Sea. They gazed up at the heavens and offered thanks to God for an idyllic and memorable celebration of their love.

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The Autumn: Why Haul Out
Water and Fall foliage at Dory's Fall
Dory's Fall

Why do so many yachtsmen hurriedly haul out their boats immediately after Labor Day? Sure, the kids are back to school, and the weather starts to change. But we have enjoyed some of our most clear, calm, beautiful days boating in the fall. I dare say don’t haul before fall, have a ball while everyone else is buttoning up their boats and turning to watch football or baseball. Perhaps those sun-soaked sandbar rafting days have passed until next summer, but from New England to the southern coasts you’ll still find glorious warm days, less boat wake and less boat traffic in general, which opens a world of late season cruising opportunities. My father always said boating is better once the “summer yahoos disappear.”

Boating Experience: So soon in fall? 


Red Fall tree with water and boat in the background
Cape Porpose Maine Fall

Fall boating is just quieter. As most boaters vacate the water in lieu of other pursuits, September and October can offer brilliant blue-sky days. Waterways that were jam-packed with everything from inflatables to tour boats a month prior are now more open for you to explore. Loud two stroke “boater-cycles,” as my friend likes to call jet skis and sea-doos (personal propelled watercraft) are trailered away leaving in the absence of their wake- jumping a more serene scene.

Foliage starts to pop on the waterfront come mid-September into October from Maine to Virginia. The sparkling water reflects the kaleidoscope of autumn leaves in their shimmering crimson, gold and orange. It’s spectacular, truly a photographer’s dream, whether you’re on a lake, the ocean, a beautiful bay or waterway. Boating in September, October, even into November a bit farther south, is a gem. Just be mindful of the forecast, hurricane season, and significant temperature shifts that invite pop-up storms.

Man's legs propped up on seats facing stern of the boat with sunset in the background
Block Island, RI.

The weather. With cooler fall days, temps trend toward delightfully crisp and clear. Days are also shorter, so midday boating is best for peak sun. For your boating comfort, have sweatshirts, sweaters or jackets handy, even hats and gloves, especially if you’re in northern New England.

Good news: Gone are the hot humid mugginess and the bugs that accompany spring and summer heat. Bonus: you have less chance of that scorching summer sunburn. Still, be sure to apply sunscreen, refraction on the water is real even when a chill is in the air. You may want to eat steamed lobster by the waterfront, but you don’t want to look like one. Evenings on the water cool off, making for great sleeping aboard. Snuggle under covers and wake to fresh air and hot coffee on deck that never tasted so good in another season.

Fall means more available dock slips, moorings and anchorages as many are pulling their boots “up on the hard,” which frees up marina space for you. The same prime spots that were impossible to get in summer, with wait lists at places like Block Island, Newport and Annapolis, are now wide open. Same goes for waterfront restaurants with tie ups; their face docks are free and on a first come first served basis.

Just be prepared that dockhands and marina staff may not be as readily available in the fall, as students that typically manage the docks have returned to their campuses, and marine techs are pre-occupied prepping folks’ boats for winterization and storage. Be ready to tend your own lines.

Wildlife abounds in fall. Migratory birds are on the move. Enjoy watching geese, loons and birds-of-a-feather flocking south as winter approaches.

Speaking of marine life, if you like to fish, then fall is your wish. As temperatures decline, the fish sense that winter is coming. In preparation of the next season, fish begin their migrating south and their subsequent feeding frenzy.

Sailboat on a mooring with fall trees in the background
Kennebunkport Fall Foilage

Snowbirds of the human variety start their boating trek south too, if they aren’t storing their boat up north. Cruising the ICW in fall can be a social circuit where you may see the same boat owners and crew as you stop along your way at various harbors and marinas. It’s entertaining to compare ship logs and experiences from your adventures, favorite sights and seaports, with fellow boaters along your journey.

I have always loved how friendly boaters can be, and how an impromptu sharing of dock-side drinks aboard yours or their top deck can quickly transpire into an animated evening talking about best and worst boating with your nautical neighbors.

Word of caution: don’t be like my dear deceased, super-dedicated-to-boating Dad who insisted there’d be one more great boating day in late fall in New Hampshire. He would hold out on hauling his 28’ Eastern well into November, insisting it’s not winter till December. I recall more than once having to chip the ice of the dock lines to free up his pride- and-joy, then boating to the nearest icy ramp while frost clung to the windshield, and it was bitter cold on the slippery decks. That’s taking fall boating to an extreme.

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Cruising Grenada

Sugar Spice and Everything Nice

When the end of the cruising season in the southern Caribbean was upon us, we did what many Caribbean cruisers do: We sailed south for Grenada. We delayed as long as possible, knowing the hurricane season was upon us, but we didn’t want to be forced south. I had one impression of Grenada, and that was of rotting boats and retired sailors. It was a cruisers graveyard, or so I thought, and I was far from accepting an end to our sailing days.

Grenada is the southernmost group of islands in the Lesser Antilles archipelago as well as the name of the main island in a cluster of eight smaller islands and about a dozen smaller islets and cays. The only thing I knew of its geography prior to arriving was that it was one of the few island groups in the Caribbean far enough south to be considered out of the hurricane belt. So, it was ironic that on our first day in the country we had to shelter in the mangroves from a Category 1 storm.

As we lashed our boat Ātea’s bow to densely bound tree roots and secured lines to the cleats of yachts on either side of us, our small unit became part of the larger, unified collective. Little did we realize that this interconnection would be representative of our Grenadian experience.

Safely through the storm, we disbanded and spread out to explore our new surroundings. We completed our clearance in Carriacou, Grenada’s northern sister island, and were amazed to see a hundred or so yachts anchored in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou’s main harbor. I knew Grenada was popular, but if the numbers of boats in Carriacou were anything to judge by, I’d have to cope with much larger crowds when we travelled farther south.

The south coast of Grenada not only provides the most settled weather, but it’s riddled with about a dozen safe harbors from the dominant easterly swell. It’s the reason cruisers gather on Grenada’s south coast and also the reason why they remain. Some stay for hurricane season, some use the island as a base for a few years, others retire from active cruising and either settle or sell. One thing was certain: Grenada was far more than the end of the line.

Before making the journey south, however, we wanted to stretch out the season by adding a short circumnavigation around Carriacou, known as “The Isle of Reefs” to the Kalinago people (the original Island Caribs). We spent our time there dodging bommies (submerged coral reefs) and soaking up the tropical island experience with our feet in the sand, our bellies in the water and our hands on a bottle of rum.

We stopped at Petite Martinique, the third and smallest of the three main islands. There we enjoyed rugged, rocky beaches and side-stepped clusters of goats grazing the green rolling hills as we hiked up Mount Piton for panoramic views of the surrounding islands. We climbed down into the Darant Bay Cave for framed views of the same islands at sea level.

Of course, we couldn’t miss a few sundowners on Mopion, a tiny sand mound rising amid expansive coral reef with a single thatched beach umbrella perched in the center. While technically a part of the Grenadines, its proximity to Petite Martinique made a quick dash across the border for a sip in the shade of this unique little spot a worthwhile experience. Carriacou is an island surrounded by unspoiled reef, and it did not disappoint. A quick tour of her perimeter was the perfect way to salute the end of an amazing Caribbean season.

With a quick stop-over in Ronde Island, a beautiful private island that’s halfway between Carriacou and Grenada, we continued our transit south. Again, I hadn’t prepared myself for the wild beauty of Grenada’s west coast. Mile after mile of dense, lush forest cascade down the leeward side of the island from peak to sea.

We hugged the coastline as we sailed the 13 miles down the west coast, looking up at 2,700 feet of volcanic rock and shear waterfalls that fed small rivers that ran down the slopes of the mountainous interior to the coast. While Grenada is well reputed as a tourist destination for holidaymakers seeking either a sun- drenched party or quiet refuge on one of its 45 beaches, I knew from sailing the coast that my preferences would draw me inland.

Grenada’s coastline contains many large bays, but most yachts head for safe anchorage behind one of the many narrow peninsulas that split up the southern coastline. As we pulled into Prickly Bay, the first of Grenada’s southern harbors, I knew from the crowd of yachts that I would escape to the interior as soon as possible. As it turned out, I didn’t get that chance. As soon as we dropped anchor, we were invited ashore for a cruiser’s jam session to reconnect with friends from past seasons.

The following day we crammed into the back seat of a taxi on our way to an event for the annual Chocolate Festival, and our schedule quickly filled after that with tours of cocoa plantations, cocoa grinding competitions, chocolate tastings and chocolate drawing contests. In additional to the island’s cultural events, we were also immediately drawn into the cruiser’s social scene.

On our first week of arrival our mornings were already booked into early morning yoga and bootcamp on the beach. The kids joined a cruiser’s homeschooling collective and regular extracurricular activities that were held under the shade of the trees. If we weren’t listening to live music or joining the locals’ beach barbecues in the evenings, we were sitting poolside and sipping beers from a $5 bucket with other cruisers at Le Phare Bleu, a boutique hotel that opened its amenities and services to cruisers during the pandemic.

Every morning offered an activity, and every evening we joined a social get-to-gether, so the weeks flew by in a social extravaganza unlike any we’d experienced. As yachts gather in Grenada every year for the hurricane season, the regularity of this influx of boats resulted in a solid cruising community and a variety of services and events. Far more than a collection of retired boats and sunburnt seamen, my preconceived notions of Grenada didn’t come close to the reality of the vibrant cruising network that existed on this popular island.

As we made new friends and reconnected with old ones, we really enjoyed the buzz that the tight community offered.

Pulling myself out of continuous activity took a concerted effort, but I eventually dragged the family off the beach and up the mountains.

After our trip into the interior, I developed a new passion for my time in Grenada: A short bus journey followed by a hike into the forest would lead us to one of Grenada’s many waterfalls. Unlike other tourist destinations where fees were handed over and you’d stand under falls next to groups of other tourists, we had the rivers for free and all to ourselves. Some of the trails were near the road, and we’d hop on and off a bus to walk the short distance to the falls. Others, such as Seven Sisters and the Concord Falls, required planning as it took a full day to hike in and out of the forest, clambering up steep banks and crisscrossing the river to wind through deep forest and get a view from the top.

Each part of the river that ran down from one of the six inland lakes had its own magic, and I was enthusiastic to see what each had to offer. Later I appreciated all that I’d experienced of Grenada’s inland beauty. As I paid $20 per person to stand in crowds under cascading water at Costa Rica’s most popular waterfalls, I couldn’t help but compare it to all that I’d seen in Grenada’s secluded, remote interior.

In additional to nature, we explored some of the historical roots of Grenada’s past. Grenada’s original economy was based on sugar cane and indigo, and with that, slaves were imported in the mid-17th century to work and harvest crops. We set out to search for some of the old plantation houses and slave pens that remained from that period, which took us on a wild tramp through the backstreets of quiet neighborhoods and into unmarked bush to find these lost relics.

It was quite the education for our children to see small, dank, windowless, stone slave quarters set behind grand old houses, a potent reminder of darker times in this beautiful and vibrant country. We also smelled and sampled some of Grenada’s current crops, nutmeg, mace and cocoa at the top of the list of exports, and enjoyed local culinary treats such as oil down, a vegetable stew that is the country’s national dish. Thanks to these excursions we can say that Grenada is, both figuratively and literally, full of sugar and spice.

Cruising often leaves you tied to the boat and, therefore, the sea. Grenada offered a wonderful period of enjoying the most of both land and sea in equal balance, so we were able to get the most of what the country has to offer. To see the beaches but not the forest, lakes and rivers offers only half the experience; likewise, to spend time inland but not explore the coast leaves only half an impression. As Grenada offers safe anchorage throughout the hurricane season, cruisers remain nearby for an extended period, sharing experiences and building friendships. This is unique for a community that is typically very transient, and it offers plenty of opportunity to create a home away from home atmosphere.

In addition, suitable yacht services are available, so that time spent waiting for the next season gives everyone a chance to get much needed repair work done. Far from being the end of the line, Grenada offers an interim rest stop where friendships are forged and yachts are restored on an island that offers a range of activities and opportunities both on and above the waterline.

Article and photos by Kia Koropp

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Our Adventures between the Great Lakes from Detroit to Port Huron

My husband Tim and I spent 2021 traveling 8,000 miles around the Great Loop. Like many, we wanted to cruise in Canada, but we didn’t get the green light for entry in time. We were initially bummed, but our mood quickly shifted as we discovered some of our favorite stops on the stretch that kept us in U.S. waters, including our journey between Lake Erie and Lake Huron.

Stop 1: Belle Isle

Estimated Mileage: 2 NM

Belle Isle is the largest city-owned island park in America, located on the Detroit River between the United States and Canada. The island’s only marina is the Detroit Yacht Club, which has a limited number of transient slips for reciprocal members, so it’s best to explore while keeping your boat at Milliken Marina. 

Roughly 1,000 acres, Belle Isle is home to an aquarium, maritime museum, botanical garden, beach, picnic areas and playgrounds that provide a plethora of options to explore. You won’t find great spots to grab a bite to eat, so we recommend stopping at Atwater Brewery on the way back to the marina.

Stop 2: Harrison Township, Lake St. Clair

Estimated Mileage: 24 NM

Often referred to as the Great Lake’s smaller cousin, Lake St. Clair is large enough to easily keep your distance from freighters yet small enough to explore in a day.

By boat, you can visit several of the lake’s swimming spots in Anchor and Bouvier Bays (or “Munchies” Bay as the locals say), popular for their clear water and hard bottoms. After an afternoon of swimming, cruise through the Clinton River and tie up at one of several restaurants catering to a lively boater scene for a drink and meal. Crews Inn is one of our favorites for their fun atmosphere and great food.

Lake St. Clair Metropark Marina is a popular spot for transients. The marina is located in the park, so after docking, enjoy the expansive park’s beaches, trails, picnic areas and swimming pool.

Stop 3: Port Huron, MI

Estimated Mileage: 44 NM

Port Huron is home to the start of one of the longest fresh-water races in the world called the Port Huron to Mackinac Sailing Race, and the port is a charming and boater-friendly destination.

Ideal for its central location and friendly members, Port Huron Yacht Club is a great place for tying up, sipping a drink at the clubhouse and avoiding the drawbridges on the Black River. Another popular spot is about a mile farther down the river at the 95-slip River Street Marina.

Port Huron is home to the Island Loop Route National Water Trail, a 10-mile loop through the Black River, Lake Huron and St. Clair River. Your dinghy is a must through the Black River and for exploring the town and clear waters by boat.

Walk a mile along the Blue Water River Walk that runs along the St. Clair River. Be sure to leave enough time to watch the freighters go by and delve into the area’s history that is shared along the route. Continue a couple of miles farther to Lighthouse Park, where you can enjoy an afternoon at the beach and swim in Lake Huron’s crystal clear water.

During a stroll downtown, check out the Knowlton’s Ice Museum of North America to discover the history of local ice harvesting that took place along the Great Lakes.

When you’ve done enough activities to work up an appetite, Casey’s is the place for delicious breadsticks and pizza. For a more upscale option, you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu at The Vintage Tavern. Maria’s Downtown Café offers a hearty breakfast, and Raven Café or Exquisite Corpse Coffee House are great options for a cup of coffee.

Kate Carney is a writer and Great Gold Looper who traveled 8,000 miles on Sweet Day, a 31-foot Camano trawler. Learn more about her and her husband’s adventures on

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