Cruising Stories

Greek Ioanian Coast - An odyssey of amorous adventure and unrivaled beauty

January 2020
Elnicki Wade

WHEN EMILY PATERAKIS walked into the room, her husband Yanni smiled in her direction and said, "See that woman? She's my wife, and I'd marry her all over again." In a heartwarming, unconventional way, Yanni did just that. Not with the trappings of a ceremony to renew their vows; instead, he swept her away on a journey that they would treasure forever.

Navagio Shipwreck Beach In Zakynthos | Greek Ioanian Coast | Marinalife

Last September, Yanni took his bride of 38 years to the Greek Ioanian Coast, where his family's story began. His grandfather harkened from Chios, and his grandmother came from Samos, a pair of windswept islands on the Aegean Sea. After immigrating to Baltimore, his grandfather worked in a bakery, and the Paterakis family generations grew the business. Yanni was just a boy when he first made bread and rolls in the shop alongside his father, uncles and brothers.

At age 16, Yanni first visited his Greek ancestral homeland, and many years later, he and Emily enjoyed an Aegean cruise with their three children. But this trip would be different. This time, the two of them would break from the familiar and let wanderlust rekindle their spirits. Together they charted a route to places less traveled and would explore the intimate islands, timeless villages and romantic seaside of Greece.


Their choice of destination was made easy by the country's geographic differences. Greece's commercialized Aegean coast offered the bustle of Athens and crowds of tourists clambering on antiquities. The Ionian Sea to the west presented a more authentic Greek experience, where Yanni and Emily could cruise the shoreline surrounded by gentle winds and balmy waters. They would be travelers who could stop at whim, indulge spontaneity, absorb the unique seaside culture and marvel at the islands' breathtaking beauty.

Soon their itinerary was set. They chartered a 52-foot-long by 27-foot-wide catamaran and island-hopped, starting in Corfu, cruising to Paxos, Antipaxos, Cephalonia, Zakinthos, Ithaca, Lefkada and Meganisi, and taking mainland excursions in Syvota and Vrachos.

The plan enabled Yanni to delve deeper into his Greek heritage and witness parts of himself in his Mediterranean roots. Emily's personal warmth and grace would shine among the people they met, while her affinity for the outdoors would help her unearth a spirituality in nature. They would discover a new side of Greece -- and a lot about each other.

ENTERING POSEIDON'S PLAYLAND - Final Legs of the Greek Ioanian Coast

Yanni and Emily's airplane touched ground on Corfu, an island off the northwest coast of Greece where shipwrecked Odysseus sought safe haven from the storms. Two mountains topped with fortresses stand guard over Byzantine churches, 18th century palaces, archaeological museums and ruins, and beaches lined with golden sand and lush foliage.

The Grecotel Corfu Imperial, a luxury resort surrounded by azure waters and an alluring environment, was their first stay in Corfu. After savoring a stunning view of boats bobbing in the harbor, they indulged in long swims in a cove of the Ionian Sea and worked up an appetite for dinner at Contessa's, a restaurant that features traditional Greek dancing.

While waiting for their adventure to begin, they strolled the town's cobblestone streets, taking time to visit shops, meet the locals and sample bites of fresh ingredients at every meal. Fresh figs and olives from the produce market were divine. A drive to Palaiokastritsa on winding roads revealed goats meandering through olive tree orchards, bougainvillea draping colorful branches across grape arbors and vineyards sprawling across the countryside. After stopping at an olive oil production orchard, they enjoyed a sunset dinner at Eremitis Bar & Restaurant along the water.

At this port, as well as other towns on their journey, Yanni stopped at bakeries. The comforting aromas and irresistible pastries and breads brought back memories of home and sparked ideas for his business back in Baltimore. Fluent in Greek, his conversations with bakers and shop owners were lively, and new friendships were easily made.

After drinks and appetizers at the Olympia Café & Bar, they headed to the marina and set sail on the catamaran with friends from Baltimore. A traditional dinner of lamb, potatoes, Halloumi cheese, Greek salad and anise bread with pungent Greek organic olive oil welcomed them to the Ionian Sea. They arrived in Syvota, another picturesque town where the travelers began to unwind. An evening visit to the private Voutoumi Beach was magical.

The next stop was the Blue Caves of Paxos and Antipaxos. Photos cannot prepare guests for the astonishing seascape at these Ionian island gems. Mountainous white cliffs, which could only have been carved by the mighty hand of God, rise out of deep, turquoise water. According to legend, Poseidon's marble palace was in Ahai, one of the caves of Paxos.The crew tied ropes around huge gray rocks to offer easy access to and from the boat. Feeling as if they had entered a movie set, they relished the setting and dove into the pristine water. Snorkeling, swimming to the beach or drifting on a noodle was plenty of entertainment amidst such spectacular surroundings. Emily built a rock altar in gratitude for such a glorious day. Meals of just-caught calamari, octopus and fresh lamb with hummus were devoured after an invigorating swim.

The following day brought them to the private beaches near Lefkada, where the sea almost outshone the sky by sporting a stunning sapphire blue hue. Diving off the boat, they swam to shore and explored the Blue Caves. Feeling bold and invincible, they dove off towering Foki Bay Cliffs and ended the evening at Fiskordo's. Tying two lines to the dock next to a fleet of gorgeous 100' yachts, they snacked on frozen yogurt with walnuts, cinnamon and local honey, while Chef Costa prepared pan-seared fresh local Mediterranean Lavraki fish.

Cruising south, the catamaran docked at Pera Pigadi near the lower tip of Ithaca Island. They slept in late and awakened to rocking waves and the melodies of the sea. After a breakfast of eggs scrambled with Kasseri cheese, onions and local fruit, they sailed north through clear blue waters to Ithaca, home of Odysseus, the hero of the ancient Greek myth, The Odyssey. Inspired by the historic setting, Captain Yiannis captivated the crew with tales from Greek mythology about Helen of Troy, Achilles, Athena and Zeus. Continuing north, they passed the tiny Atokos Island, which is inhabited by goats that roam the gentle green terrain above dramatic white cliffs and pristine beaches.

Heading back toward Syvota, they ventured ashore to swim at the massive and astonishingly beautiful Papanikolis Cave at Meganisi, which is Greece's second largest cave with an arched ceiling of layered rock dating back centuries. The hour-long cruise back to Lefkada lead them past the Greek mainland and through lochs teeming with sailboats and other catamarans. They paused along the way to take a dip at Two Rocks Bay, Acherontas, and admire the beaches and coves between mountains at Ammoudia.

Landing in Parga Harbor, they sipped drinks at Il Posto, and the breezes of a warm night lured them into sleeping on the bow under the stars. The next day, they visited Dimtri's butcher shop where fresh ground lamb was made into soutzoukakia (meatballs). The local market provided garden vegetables, and Achilles Bakery rounded out the feast with just-baked delicacies.

One day blended easily into the next. Under the warm rays of the sun, they fed pieces of bread to fish to catch them only with a hook and string -- the traditional Greek way. They lounged on white sand beaches, dipped in and out of the waves, and explored secret coves far away from signs of humanity. Evenings in coastal villages were filled with life's simple pleasures: savoring candle-lit dinners, dancing to Greek music, and sharing stories with new and old friends.

Paxos provided a plethora of beach experiences for the crew. Kipiadi Beach, the longest stretch of sand on the island, offers stellar views of the seaside landscape. There they witnessed a spectacular sunset at Romantica rooftop bar that overlooks a harbor filled with boats of all shapes and sizes. In Bella Vraka Beach, they swam to a quaint cove with a sandbar in the middle of two beaches. A curious goat licked salt off Emily's hand after a long swim. Lunch of octopus and olives was followed by a dip in Blue Lagoon and a tour of Notos Garden, which presents a stunning panoramic view with pink bougainvillea boughs draping over the forest walkway.

For an inland excursion, they drove to the traditional mountain village of Volimes, best known for its olive oil, honey and hand crafts. They travelled through acres of olive groves to Navagio or Shipwreck Beach and Agios Nickolas on Zakynthos, a village dating back to the 16th century. The next day delivered them to the secluded Agia Pelagia Beach and Xygia Beach, and they dined at Nobelos, where the restaurant owner shared stories about the Greek way of life.

As the journey was coming to an end, Yanni hired a 22' yacht from Lesante Blu, and they cruised around the entire island of Zakynthos. The village of Agalas, on the west coast of the island, wowed them with pine and olive trees dotting the landscape and three dramatic caves imbedded in the rocky coastline.

When they arrived at the Corfu Airport, Yanni and Emily learned that their return flight had been delayed. Instead of letting disappointment erase the bliss of a dream vacation, they took the postponement as a blessing that granted one more night in Athens dancing romantically at the St. George Hotel. They climbed up to the highest point in Athens, Lykavittos St. George Church, where the annual Easter pilgrimage is held. The views overlook the amber lights of the city and the Aegean Sea. They gazed up at the heavens and offered thanks to God for an idyllic and memorable celebration of their love.

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Exploring Antigua by Land and Sea

The beautiful island of Antigua was our destination for a short Caribbean getaway. Having visited many of the Caribbean islands, we were looking forward to exploring a new tropical locale and experiencing the wonderful local charm, culture, vistas and beaches. In fact, this Eastern Caribbean island boasts 365 beaches: one for every day of the year!

My travel companions for the week included my husband Jim, brother Anthony and sister-in-law, Amanda. Always a great group to travel with (our last adventure together led us to Greece, Italy and Croatia), so I knew a fun week filled with laughter was in store.

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Jim and Jen on the catamaran

As we peered out the airplane window on the approach to Antigua, we were instantly mesmerized by the pure turquoise blue waters and rolling green hills, and eager to get out on the water.

For my brother, this trip was not just an ordinary vacation. While it was my first time visiting the island, my brother has incredibly fond memories of trips to Antigua during the 1970s as a child, traveling with his grandparents, affectionately known to us as Meemah and Deedah. This week was an opportunity to share with us one of his favorite places in the world.

Anthony decided the best way to explore the island was by land and by sea. The first part of our trip was spent touring the island with a local driver and tour guide named Elvis, who is a native Antiguan living in one of the six parishes on the island with his wife and children. When Anthony spotted him on the beach wearing a Yankee cap, he knew this was the tour guide for us. Anthony and Elvis instantly bonded (even discovering they shared a birthday) and together planned our extraordinary excursion.

Our tour of the island started with a visit to St. Johns, the capital city of Antigua. While part of the town is geared toward the large cruise ships that help support the local economy, St. Johns retains its charm, filled with farmers markets, stalls and local restaurants. Amanda was immediately enchanted by one of the young local shopkeepers selling souvenirs with his mom.

The next stop was Betty's Hope, one of the earliest sugar plantations dating back to 1651. The sugar mills are beautifully preserved, and we learned about the large role these sugar plantations played in Antigua's history. While enjoying the scenery at Betty's Hope, Elvis surprised us with homemade sandwiches and rum punch. A delightful snack to recharge us for the next stop -- Devil's Bridge in the Indian Town National Park.

antigua - cruising with members - marinalife
Jim, Jen, Amanda, and Anthony

Devil's Bridge is a natural stone arch that was carved from the rocky coast by the constant pounding of waves. Locals say its name comes from surges of water that snatch away people who stray too close to the edge. The area around the arch features several natural blowholes that shoot up water and spray powered by waves from the Atlantic Ocean.

While Jim and I stayed far from the edge, Anthony ventured out close to the bridge for a unique photo opportunity. Later in the week, we would have a chance to see this incredible rock formation from the ocean.

We continued to travel up the rolling hills to Shirley Heights Lookout, first used during the Revolutionary War as a signal station and lookout for approaches to English Harbor. It is truly one of the most spectacular vistas I have ever seen.

Having reached the highest point in Antigua, it was time to get back to sea level. Our next stop centered around Nelson's Dockyard, a working Georgian-era naval dockyard, designated as a world heritage site in 2016. We delighted in exploring the dockyard and gazing over the beautiful yachts and sailboats moored at the Antigua Yacht Club Marina.

Driving through the lush dense greenery of the rainforest led us to an Antigua delicacy the black pineapple. On the side of the road just outside the rain forest, we stopped at a local fruit stand and chatted with the proprietor while she carved us a fresh black pineapple, known as the sweetest in the world. It definitely lived up to its reputation.

The final stop on our island tour was my favorite -- a chance to taste the island cuisine! Elvis called ahead of our arrival and requested a platter of local foods for us to sample. We arrived at Darkwood Beach Bar & Restaurant and were immediately welcomed by the staff.

antigua - cruising with members - marinalife
Darkwood Beach Bar

After selecting a table near the beach and ordering the national beer of Antigua, Wadidli (another name for the island itself), we had the privilege of hearing Elvis' story, learning more about his life and family, and even calling his wife to thank her for the yummy sandwiches. Then we feasted on fungee and pepperpot, a hearty meat stew with eggplant, pumpkin and squash, as well as local Caribbean lobster, curries and roti. All in all, an amazing way to end a spectacular day. We said goodbye to Elvis, exchanging addresses and knowing we had made a friend for life.

After exploring Antigua north to south and east to west, we opted for a catamaran tour to circumnavigate the island as our next adventure. The morning was spent pleasantly motoring in the calm blue waters of the Caribbean Sea around the north side of the island. Before we knew it, we were sailing along in the open Atlantic Ocean passing by Long Island, also known as Jumby Bay and a popular destination for celebrities.

After a wonderful morning on the water, we anchored in a protected cove for a stop to swim, snorkel and eat lunch near Green Island. It was a perfect destination for Amanda's first snorkeling excursion. After spotting a large sea turtle, magnificent coral reefs and exotic fish, we enjoyed a lazy swim near the beautiful powdery white sand of Green Island Beach.

Following a traditional lunch of jerk chicken, rice and plantains, we continued our journey around the island down to the southern tip to experience English Harbor and Devil's Bridge from the water. It was even more extraordinary from this vantage point.

As the sun started to dip low in the sky, we returned to the Caribbean Sea on the western side of the island watching a storm brewing in the distance. During the quiet sail back, each of us felt grateful for another magnificent day in paradise.

While traveling with your closest friends is always fun, my favorite memories of our time on this magical island were Anthony's reflections of his previous trips to Antigua with his grandparents, the excitement at sharing his favorite place with his new wife, and the joy that much of the island remained as he remembered it. We are already planning our next trip to Antigua!


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Join a Father & Son Trip up the ICW

Paul Kekalos - cruising - marinalife
Paul Kekalos and his father

"Might as well get going" said my dad as we stood on the dock, fresh out of things to prepare. I laughed to myself and replied, "Yeah, I guess we might as well." That conversation plays out in my head every time I set out on a boat a sign that all preparations are complete, and it's time to start the trip.

When my father asked me to help him deliver his Hatteras 40 from Charleston to Cape May via the ICW, I jumped at the chance to return to a special place in my life (I spent my summers in Cape May growing up) and spend bonding time with my dad. But I was not without apprehension. It would be my first trip on the ICW, his first in years, and the first on a new-to-him vessel. While I spend a lot of time on the water as a sailor, the twin diesels of the Hatteras were new to me.

As we were about to push off, dolphins showed up, easing the inevitable start-of-voyage jitters that accompany any trip. As we turned into Charleston Harbor and pointed toward the markers at the entrance to the first portion of the waterway heading north, our three dolphin friends escorted us through the channel markers. I took it as a good sign.

Starting Point: Charleston, SC

Charleston aerial - cruising - marinalife
Charleston Aerial | Pixaba

Estimated Mileage: 48 NM

We were warned that the first stretch of waterway was known for scattered shallow spots in the first few miles, but we found none. As waterfront homes of Sullivan's Island and Isle of Palms slowly peeled away to reveal the quiet wilderness of the Santee Coastal Reserve, I thought, "This is the ICW I imagined. Pristine, undeveloped and peaceful."

In the coming days, I would learn this was only part of the story. We pulled into Georgetown for the evening, and our first day was behind us. With that came the simple lesson: the only way to get over the nervousness of a trip is to start the journey. We slept well that night knowing we had done so.

Leg 1: Georgetown, SC to Southport, NC

Estimated Mileage: 72 NM

Leaving Georgetown and heading north up the Waccamaw River, the previous afternoon's tranquility continued. The soft light over the marshlands showed that ours was the only wake in sight, save for a few passing southbound boats. It was an easy way to start the day. And then ... Myrtle Beach ... on a Saturday... in June. The morning peacefulness gave way to a bustling stretch of waterway filled with all sorts of people enjoying the day center consoles, water skiers, kayakers, stand-up paddlers, floating tiki bars. Mile after mile of developed waterfront checked our speed and changed our perspective.

Eventually, we cleared through the beautiful chaos of Myrtle Beach, crossed into North Carolina and preceded toward that night's destination, Southport, NC. This was our first time experiencing the wonderful ICW phenomenon of just pulling over to dock on the proverbial side of the road. We settled into the facing fuel dock at Southport Marina and marveled at how the ICW contains multitudes of experiences.

Leg 2: Southport to Beaufort, NC

Estimated Mileage: 83 NM

The weather was mostly settled with morning showers, and thunderstorms were predicted, but clear skies were forecasted for the afternoon. Only on Day 3, we still were under the misguided illusion that the schedule was ours to keep. We wanted to cover some ground today, so we ducked out of the well-marked and relatively easy Masonboro Inlet for an outside run up the Atlantic to Beaufort, NC.

As we approached the Inlet, a local Sunday morning sailing race was underway. Half the fleet made it out of the inlet with us before we heard on the radio that the race committee was recalling the fleet due to approaching thunderstorms. We debated staying inside, but the weather quickly passed us, and we rode the gentle swell up to Beaufort Inlet. It was good to get in the miles by going outside the ICW, but we realized that was not the point of this trip. Leaving the ICW, we missed the variety that the waterway provides. We stayed inside for the rest of the trip to enjoy the view.

Leg 3: Beaufort to Belhaven, NC

Estimated Mileage: 50 NM

On a trip up the ICW, you discover it's anything but a highway. Leaving Beaufort, we noted how the waterway that we experienced thus far was a straight-line narrow cut with land close by on either side, often called the proverbial ditch. But the ICW also provides moments of wide-open beauty.Heading out of Beaufort and north up Adams Creek, the ICW gives way to the relative vastness of the Neuse River and Pamlico Sound. Navigation aids are more spaced out, and the wind waves have more room to gather up. We traveled a short stretch of the Sound, pulled into beautiful Belhaven Marina for the night and found the sleepy but utterly charming town was a great place to stop.

Leg 4: Belhaven to Coinjock, NC

Estimated Mileage: 58 NM

norfolk - cruising - marinalife
Norfolk's Busy Harbor | David Mark on Pixabay

Years of boating taught me that you seldom go five days without seeing weather that you'd rather not see. The past four days were pretty good weather-wise, so we were due for something else. Pulling out of Belhaven in light sprinkles and overcast skies, we entered the famed Alligator-Pungo River Canal. This is truly the ditch 21 miles of a virtual straight line that connects the Pungo and Alligator Rivers. It is narrow and long, and it helps to see where you are going.Fortunately, the weather cooperated, and we navigated the canal with ease. But just as we emerged into the wide-open Alligator River, heavy rains and stiff squalls closed in around us. I'm always nervous with weather, but my dad has a measured demeanor, so he put me at ease. We picked our way from buoy to buoy and emerged from the storm just as we passed through Alligator River Swing Bridge and started across Albemarle Sound for the evening's destination, Coinjock Marina & Restaurant. Here I learned the real lesson of the day order the prime rib!

Leg 5: Coinjock, NC to Norfolk, VA

Estimated Mileage: 34 NM

On every trip, you reach a point where you've gone over the hump. With five days of ICW behind us, we hit that point and could sense a change coming. We left Coinjock and picked our way across the long, shallow Currituck Sound into Virginia. As we wound our way through the meandering and pristine North Landing River Natural Area Preserve, both of us were excited to make Norfolk that evening and enter the Chesapeake for our final stretch. Several bridges are on this stretch of the ICW, but our timing was good, and we passed each without much wait.

Sliding through the Great Bridge Locks, we approached Norfolk. The city and its surrounding waterways' bustle was an absolute eye-opener after the past few days. It made the pace of Myrtle Beach seem bucolic. We slept well, knowing that we had come to mile zero on the ICW safely.

Leg 6: Chesapeake Bay: Norfolk, VA to Chesapeake & Delaware Canal

Estimated Mileage: 200 NM

If approaching Norfolk from the south is eye-opening, then traveling into the Chesapeake past the heart of the Naval docks is something else entirely. Mile after mile of grey steel. More naval ships that I'd ever seen in one place. Amazing! And just like that, you pass over Hampton Roads Tunnels, enter the Chesapeake and you're back to wide-open beauty.

Chesapeake & Delaware Canal - cruising - marinalife
Chesapeake & Delaware Canal | Lee Cannon on FLickr

Our time in the Bay was a bit rushed. I had to return to commitments at home, so we had to get in some miles now. The plan: proceed to Solomons for a night and then reach the C&D Canal. However, our optimistic timetable did not stop the Chesapeake from dealing us a few lessons along the way.

The Chesapeake does not care about your schedule. The weather was too crummy in Solomons to leave, so we wisely decided to stay an extra day. When we finally poked out of the Patuxent River, we realized the residual effects of the rain was still evident. The Bay delivered a wild ride, with wind, rain, short chop and limited visibility for a few hours. We pondered cutting our day short, but the weather lifted quickly. By the time we passed Annapolis, blue skies and flat seas surrounded us all the way to the C&D Canal. It was amazing how quickly and dramatically conditions on the Bay changed for the better.

Leg 7: Chesapeake City to Cape May, NJ

Estimated Mileage: 54 NM

After transiting the C&D Canal and entering the Delaware Bay for the final stretch, we were truly in home waters. But despite the time I spent on the Bay growing up, I had never navigated a boat down this tricky body of water. The Delaware is busy, with a narrow channel and many big working boats. We hugged the channel's edge as we made our way down the Bay leaving ample room for others.

As the bay widened out, we plotted our approach to Cape May Harbor. Our entry took us through the Cape May Canal and into the harbor, then on to the boats' summer berth, not far from where I had spent my childhood summers. With the trip virtually complete, we experienced the bittersweet feeling of nearing our destination. And the final stretch provided perhaps the best lesson of all: When you get the opportunity to bring a boat from one place to another with your old man, take it.

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The Blessed Isles: More than Just a Stop Over

SAILING ACROSS AN OCEAN IS OFTEN SEEN AS A MARINER's BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT. With 4,000 miles between America and Europe, the distance across the Atlantic means a four-week transit across a temperamental ocean. For this reason, a small collection of mid-Atlantic islands earned the name, The Blessed Isles. Officially called Macaronesia, these four island groups the Azores, Madeira, Canaries and Cape Verde have played a central role in trans-Atlantic trade since boats first started long-distance voyages.[caption id="attachment_324683" align="alignleft" width="300"]

winship family - cruising - marinalife

Kia Koropp and John Daubeny with their children, Braca and Ayla in Los Lobos | John McCuen[/caption]Located west of Portugal, Spain and the north-African coast in the Eastern Atlantic Ocean, they continue to offer a mid-passage respite for modern-day mariners keen for a short break in route between the two continents.The four island groups are often considered relatively similar. All are volcanic in origin with several of the islands still active (as illustrated by the recent eruption of Cumbre Vieja in Las Palmas, Canaries in September 2021).Isolation from the mainland allowed species of animal and fauna to flourish, and their exposure to strong trade winds means a harsh environment during the northern winter.During my family's voyage here, we wanted to cut our trans-Atlantic passage by adding a mid-Atlantic stop, so we used the Canaries as a break point. Our plan: A week transit from Europe to the Canaries and then a three-week sail to the Caribbean.The Canaries is an autonomous region of Spain that consists of 13 islands. Given the geographic similarity to the Macaronesia islands, I was expecting an extension of Madeira and the Azores, but I couldn't have been more misinformed. Instead, we saw vast diversity within an island group. Each of the 13 islands has its own unique environment with a fascinating heritage that is evident today. To see one island is certainly not to have seen the others.

Tenerife Cave Dwellings

The original settlers of the Canaries were the Guanches who arrived from Africa in the 1st or 2nd century. They settled in caves across the islands, concentrated in Tenerife. What fascinated me about this history is that people still live in these cave dwellings today. Excursions throughout the countryside revealed numerous dwellings spread across the island with drying laundry splayed out on lines, dogs lounging outside cave entrances, chairs perched aside a rock wall and chickens living in their coops all scattered evidence of human habitation.We found isolated valleys where large communities were dispersed across a mountainside with small footpaths winding their way up the slope. I was intrigued by this current cave culture, still alive and vibrant. I've travelled to many countries where old cave dwellings are protected as UNESCO Heritage Sites, but this was the first time I'd seen established villages in remote caves. I drove aimlessly throughout the island, trying to find as many cave dwellings as I could discover a surprisingly easy feat given the number of them spread out throughout the Canaries.

Lanzarote Volcanic Vineyards

[caption id="attachment_324686" align="alignright" width="300"]

Cave settlements - cruising - marinalife

Cave settlements dot the hillsides across the Canaries. | Kia Koropp[/caption]Both the Azores and Canaries have developed a unique form of viticulture in a very inhospitable region. It's hard to imagine that someone can grow anything but the most rugged crop in the rocky, volcanic soil. Grape vines were the last thing I expected to crisscross the region. However, ingenious vintners have done just that they created an environment where grapes not only grow, but thrive.This form of deep-root horticulture called arenado is unique to Lanzarote. Small semi-circular walls called zoco are made from black lava stones that protect a single vine, providing a barrier against strong trade winds. It's a labor-intensive form of cultivation as each crater holds one vine, making hand-picked grapes the only option for harvesting. I did not anticipate a wine-tasting on our mid-Atlantic stop, but it was delicious and historically fascinating.

Lava Tubes & Subterranean Tunnels

Lava tubes and deep volcanic caverns riddle the Canary Islands. Several islands, such as Gran Canaria and Tenerife, have extensive pyroclastic fields and some display dramatic volcanic cones with impressive craters, such as Teide on Tenerife and Cumbre Vieja on La Palma.Given the range of erosional stages of the volcanic islands, each one offers a unique perspective. This means we could hike to the top of a volcanic rim that is covered in deep foliage (Gran Canaria), walk through volcanic moonscapes (Los Lobos), wander deep inside massive caverns (Lanzarote) and follow lava tubes deep inside (Tenerife).The different stages of each island display both the devastation and the beauty that volcanoes bring. As one explodes, another holds a breathtaking amphitheater and a species of blind crab that is indigenous to the island. While locals continue to deal with the aftermath of Cumbre Vieja's violent explosion on La Palma, Cueva de los Verdes, Lanzarote holds concerts for an audience of 500 in its expansive cavern and provides sanctuary to a species of blind albino cave crabs in its deep-turquoise underground freshwater lagoon.

Underwater Sculpture Garden

Equally unique to the Canaries is Europe's first underwater sculpture garden, a collection of 12 installations laid down by sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor to raise social and environmental awareness. Museo Atlántico was made public in 2017 and holds 300 life-sized human figures performing everyday tasks: a couple holding hands, a man sitting on a swing, fishermen in their boats, someone taking a selfie. Four years on and the sculptures are starting to create a decent false reef. The effect is impressive ... and rather eerie. My dive at the site remains an unforgettable experience that should not be missed on a trip through Lanzarote.[caption id="attachment_324684" align="alignleft" width="225"]

Museo Atlántico - cruising - marinalife

Examples of individual exhibits in the Museo Atlántico underwater sculpture park, Lanzarote | Kia Koropp[/caption]Many sailors use the largest of the Canary Islands, Las Palmas in Gran Canaria, solely for provisioning and boat preparation before a trans-Atlantic passage. However, if you bypass the islands that surround the main island you'd miss out on interesting and diverse islands that should be a highlight destination in the Eastern Atlantic. The ones we visited on our sail through the island group were a continuous series of unfolding surprises.The villages hold their own quaint small-town European character, and each island offers an experience drastically different than its neighbor. From the bustle of Gran Canaries largest city, Las Palmas, to the silent cave dwellers of its outer communities; from the enormous sand dunes of Fuertaventura's ParqueNatural de las Dunas to the barren volcanic cone of Los Lobos to the lush laurel forest of Los Tilos de Moya in Gran Canaria; from sea to inland lake to crater rim to underground tunnels; from camel back to mountaintop to mid-city cafes. The Canaries' special diversity makes a hop-through in route from America to Europe a must-see adventure.

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