Cruising Stories

Lake Champlain - A Mystery

Following the Wake of a Nameless Hero

Great Lakes
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By
David
Fuller

In 2015, one chapter of our life closed, and a new chapter opened for my wife Claudia and me. We sold our home, changed course and went all in by moving aboard our new-to-us 1981, 43-foot Viking aft cabin cruiser. Thus, began a grand adventure as full-time cruisers exploring our country from the perspective of her historic waterways. We'd like to share our adventures on Lake Champlain and shed light on a nameless hero who cruised these waters during the Revolutionary War.

Starting Point: Rouses Point, NY

We began our journey on Lake Champlain as a part of a larger adventure cruising the Down East Loop in 2019. We started at the Gaines Marina, a few miles south of the Canadian border. Before taking off, we walked down to Stewart's Gas Station and stocked up on ice cream. Near the convenience store, we found a drug store, dollar store and post office within walking distance.

We were investigating a nameless hero who participated in the assault on Quebec City and lead forces in Montreal in 1775. The British army began to challenge American patriots in Montreal and forced a retreat. Our nameless hero captured several ships during his retreat and made way back to Whitehall, NY. George Washington ordered a fleet of ships to protect Lake Champlain from British control. The gunboats were built under the direction of our nameless hero. In the fall of 1776, he headed to Lake Champlain's north end in the new fleet and met the British at Valcour Island.

Leg 1: Rouses Point, NY to Valcour Island, NY

Estimated Milage: 23.5 NMA short cruise south to Valcour Island brought us to an anchorage off its west side, which is part of the N.Y. State Park System and has few amenities. We dropped the dinghy and landed on the island to hike to Bluff Point Lighthouse and overlook the waters where the Battle of Valcour Island took place. We were anchored right in the middle of ground zero of the battle.

Our nameless hero made a fruitless stand in these waters in October 1776. His fleet of small gunships was no match for the superior British forces. He retreated south and lost all the gunships that were built in Whitehall. However, with winter approaching the Battle of Valcour Island was enough of a delay to prevent the British from advancing south to Fort Ticonderoga until 1777.

Leg 2: Valcour Island, NY to Burlington, VT

Bluff Point Light - cruising itinerary - marinalife
Bluff Point Light on Valcour Island from Wikimedia Commons

Estimated Milage: 13 NMWe stopped at the Burlington Boathouse for a few days to launch our shore excursions into Burlington. Luckily, the town runs a free shuttle bus to overcome the steep hill from the marina to downtown shopping and attractions. The local history was filled with stories of Ethan Allen and the famed Green Mountain Boys. Also, the area is rich with ice cream. Factory tours and the sweetest graveyard of dearly depinted Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream are a short ride outside of town.

About a block from the docks is a French restaurant named The Skinny Pancake that serves up a unique menu of crepes and music. Also near the marina you can enjoy a waterfront park, science museum and a great bicycle trail system.

Leg 3: Burlington, VT to Vergennes, VT

Estimated Milage: 21.7 NMContinuing south, we took a short side trip on Otter Creek. We picked the mouth of the creek in Fields Bay and continued for about seven miles. The reward for this little side trip was a beautiful waterfall that we anchored below the first night. The second night we moved over to the free dock where one 50-amp and several 20-amp hook-ups were available. The waterfall is lit up at night with rotating colors until about midnight. Drop-dead gorgeous! And locals raved about Black Sheep Bistro as a must-do while in town.

Leg 4: Vergennes, VT to Lake Champlain Maritime Museum, VT

Maritime Museum Floating Docks - cruising itinerary - marinalife - Lake Champlain
Maritime Museum Floating Docks

Estimated Milage: 9.6 NMAfter returning to Lake Champlain via Otter Creek, we turned south again for a four-mile run to the mooring balls owned by the Basin Harbor Club. After getting settled, we dropped the dinghy and landed on the floating dock at the Maritime Museum. Also on the dock is a replica of the Philadelphia, one of the gunboats lost during the Battle of Valcour Island.

The museum did a wonderful job of telling the maritime history of Lake Champlain. An entire building was dedicated to our nameless hero and his story of guarding these waters from 1775-1777. About a quarter mile from the museum was Red Mill Restaurant, located on a landing strip where we watched a plane land and the crew come in to eat. Brings a whole new meaning to the idea of dock and dine.

Leg 5: Lake Champlain Maritime Museum, VT to Fort Ticonderoga, NY

Estimated Milage: 23.5 NMAs we continued southbound, we passed by Crown Point State Park and under the Lake Champlain Bridge. There is no dock, but good anchorages abound if you go ashore and explore the battlefields and fort remnants that date back to 1775. The lighthouse on the point honors the lake's namesake, Samuel de Champlain.

After passing under the bridge, the lake narrows and becomes more like a river. Another 15 miles south, we dropped anchor off the shore of Fort Ticonderoga. On the north side of the point where the fort is located is a ferry dock where we landed our dingy and explored the fort. The period re-enactors brought the fort to life with tales of yesteryear.

Our nameless hero participated with Ethan Allen and the Green Mountain Boys in 1775 to capture Fort Ticonderoga from the surprised British Army. He also made his way back to the fort in 1776 after abandoning his flagship on Lake Champlain's east shore.

Leg 6: Fort Ticonderoga, NY to Whitehall, NY

Estimated Milage: 20.9 NMAs we continued south, the lake gave way to Champlain Canal at Whitehall. After passing through Lock 12, we landed at the free Whitehall Municipal Dock. Whitehall was originally named Skenesborough in 1759 after its founding father, Phillip Skene.

Skenesborough Museum tells how the town built a fleet of gunboats used in the Battle of Valcour Island. In 1960, New York State declared Whitehall, The Birthplace of the U.S. Navy. Skene Manor awaits across the canal and up the hill. Lunch and tours are provided at the mansion. This section of the canal is 140 feet above sea level. From this highest point, it was downhill all the way to New York City.

Leg 7: Whitehall, NY to Fort Edwards, NY

Estimated Mileage: 21.7 NMThe day's major events entailed negotiating the four locks between Whitehall and Fort Edwards. After completing the locks, we turned up the marked channel to Fort Edwards Yacht Basin. The city provides free dockage and 30-amp power along the concrete wall. We took a short walk to Stumpy's Pizza and strolled five minutes to Stewart's Gas Station to stock up on ice cream. If you are not careful along the way, you might feel the tug of Slickfin Brewing Co. pull you into their craft beer den.

Leg 8: Fort Edwards, NY to Mechanicville, NY

Estimated Mileage: 24.3 NMThis leg of the journey provides one big obstacle for boats trying to enter Lake Champlain. Between Locks 3 and 4 is a railroad bridge (C-5) that is sometimes incorrectly charted as 21 feet. However, the N.Y. Canal System lists this bridge as 15 feet. The good news is that lock operators can lower the pool level down to 17 feet. If you need help getting under this bridge, call the lock operator the day before and request that the pool level be lowered. We have crossed under this bridge three times, and each time they honored our request to lower the pool.

Mechanicville - cruising itinerary - marinalife - Lake Champlain
Mechanicville

On the way south we passed Schuylerville. If you wish to stop here, the Schuyler Yacht Basin will accommodate your request. From this location, you can visit historic Saratoga Springs. Just south of the marina, we spotted a large 155-foot stone obelisk. The Saratoga Monument stands where the British Lt. General John Burgoyne camped with his troops before surrendering on October 17, 1777, which is known as the turning point of America's Revolutionary War.

On the monument, bronze statues built into the structure commemorated the leaders and heroes of the battle. General Schuyler faces east toward his estate. Colonel Daniel Morgan faces west where his troops were located during the battle. General Horatio Gates faces north where the British invasion started. All sides of the estate display structures honoring battle heroes, but the south side has no statue paying tribute to the brave man who led the charge that cemented the victory. During this charge, our nameless hero was shot and wounded in the leg. Not far from this site is another nameless statue, The Boot Monument with the inscription, In memory of the most brilliant soldier of the Continental Army who was desperately wounded on this spot, winning for his countrymen the decisive battle of the American Revolution and for himself the rank of Major General.

We arrived at Mechanicville to find free dockage and power, and one more nameless hero memorial south of here on the Hudson River at West Point. A plaque for each general of the Revolutionary War hangs in the Old Cadet Chapel. Surprisingly, you find no plaque honoring our nameless hero, but you discover a nameless plaque with: Major General, Born 1740.

All three memorials commemorate the same nameless hero. I often wonder how many schools, libraries, bridges, buildings, parks, and roads would bear our hero's name if his gunshot wound at the Battle of Saratoga had been fatal on the day of his greatest victory.

Oh, and the name of our nameless hero, you ask? None other than the infamous Benedict Arnold.

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The Autumn: Why Haul Out
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Water and Fall foliage at Dory's Fall
Dory's Fall

Why do so many yachtsmen hurriedly haul out their boats immediately after Labor Day? Sure, the kids are back to school, and the weather starts to change. But we have enjoyed some of our most clear, calm, beautiful days boating in the fall. I dare say don’t haul before fall, have a ball while everyone else is buttoning up their boats and turning to watch football or baseball. Perhaps those sun-soaked sandbar rafting days have passed until next summer, but from New England to the southern coasts you’ll still find glorious warm days, less boat wake and less boat traffic in general, which opens a world of late season cruising opportunities. My father always said boating is better once the “summer yahoos disappear.”

Boating Experience: So soon in fall? 

A FEW REASONS TO LOVE THE FALL BOATING SEASON

Red Fall tree with water and boat in the background
Cape Porpose Maine Fall

Fall boating is just quieter. As most boaters vacate the water in lieu of other pursuits, September and October can offer brilliant blue-sky days. Waterways that were jam-packed with everything from inflatables to tour boats a month prior are now more open for you to explore. Loud two stroke “boater-cycles,” as my friend likes to call jet skis and sea-doos (personal propelled watercraft) are trailered away leaving in the absence of their wake- jumping a more serene scene.

Foliage starts to pop on the waterfront come mid-September into October from Maine to Virginia. The sparkling water reflects the kaleidoscope of autumn leaves in their shimmering crimson, gold and orange. It’s spectacular, truly a photographer’s dream, whether you’re on a lake, the ocean, a beautiful bay or waterway. Boating in September, October, even into November a bit farther south, is a gem. Just be mindful of the forecast, hurricane season, and significant temperature shifts that invite pop-up storms.

Man's legs propped up on seats facing stern of the boat with sunset in the background
Block Island, RI.

The weather. With cooler fall days, temps trend toward delightfully crisp and clear. Days are also shorter, so midday boating is best for peak sun. For your boating comfort, have sweatshirts, sweaters or jackets handy, even hats and gloves, especially if you’re in northern New England.

Good news: Gone are the hot humid mugginess and the bugs that accompany spring and summer heat. Bonus: you have less chance of that scorching summer sunburn. Still, be sure to apply sunscreen, refraction on the water is real even when a chill is in the air. You may want to eat steamed lobster by the waterfront, but you don’t want to look like one. Evenings on the water cool off, making for great sleeping aboard. Snuggle under covers and wake to fresh air and hot coffee on deck that never tasted so good in another season.

Fall means more available dock slips, moorings and anchorages as many are pulling their boots “up on the hard,” which frees up marina space for you. The same prime spots that were impossible to get in summer, with wait lists at places like Block Island, Newport and Annapolis, are now wide open. Same goes for waterfront restaurants with tie ups; their face docks are free and on a first come first served basis.

Just be prepared that dockhands and marina staff may not be as readily available in the fall, as students that typically manage the docks have returned to their campuses, and marine techs are pre-occupied prepping folks’ boats for winterization and storage. Be ready to tend your own lines.

Wildlife abounds in fall. Migratory birds are on the move. Enjoy watching geese, loons and birds-of-a-feather flocking south as winter approaches.

Speaking of marine life, if you like to fish, then fall is your wish. As temperatures decline, the fish sense that winter is coming. In preparation of the next season, fish begin their migrating south and their subsequent feeding frenzy.

Sailboat on a mooring with fall trees in the background
Kennebunkport Fall Foilage

Snowbirds of the human variety start their boating trek south too, if they aren’t storing their boat up north. Cruising the ICW in fall can be a social circuit where you may see the same boat owners and crew as you stop along your way at various harbors and marinas. It’s entertaining to compare ship logs and experiences from your adventures, favorite sights and seaports, with fellow boaters along your journey.

I have always loved how friendly boaters can be, and how an impromptu sharing of dock-side drinks aboard yours or their top deck can quickly transpire into an animated evening talking about best and worst boating with your nautical neighbors.

Word of caution: don’t be like my dear deceased, super-dedicated-to-boating Dad who insisted there’d be one more great boating day in late fall in New Hampshire. He would hold out on hauling his 28’ Eastern well into November, insisting it’s not winter till December. I recall more than once having to chip the ice of the dock lines to free up his pride- and-joy, then boating to the nearest icy ramp while frost clung to the windshield, and it was bitter cold on the slippery decks. That’s taking fall boating to an extreme.

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Cruising Grenada
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Sugar Spice and Everything Nice

When the end of the cruising season in the southern Caribbean was upon us, we did what many Caribbean cruisers do: We sailed south for Grenada. We delayed as long as possible, knowing the hurricane season was upon us, but we didn’t want to be forced south. I had one impression of Grenada, and that was of rotting boats and retired sailors. It was a cruisers graveyard, or so I thought, and I was far from accepting an end to our sailing days.

Grenada is the southernmost group of islands in the Lesser Antilles archipelago as well as the name of the main island in a cluster of eight smaller islands and about a dozen smaller islets and cays. The only thing I knew of its geography prior to arriving was that it was one of the few island groups in the Caribbean far enough south to be considered out of the hurricane belt. So, it was ironic that on our first day in the country we had to shelter in the mangroves from a Category 1 storm.

As we lashed our boat Ātea’s bow to densely bound tree roots and secured lines to the cleats of yachts on either side of us, our small unit became part of the larger, unified collective. Little did we realize that this interconnection would be representative of our Grenadian experience.

Safely through the storm, we disbanded and spread out to explore our new surroundings. We completed our clearance in Carriacou, Grenada’s northern sister island, and were amazed to see a hundred or so yachts anchored in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou’s main harbor. I knew Grenada was popular, but if the numbers of boats in Carriacou were anything to judge by, I’d have to cope with much larger crowds when we travelled farther south.

The south coast of Grenada not only provides the most settled weather, but it’s riddled with about a dozen safe harbors from the dominant easterly swell. It’s the reason cruisers gather on Grenada’s south coast and also the reason why they remain. Some stay for hurricane season, some use the island as a base for a few years, others retire from active cruising and either settle or sell. One thing was certain: Grenada was far more than the end of the line.

Before making the journey south, however, we wanted to stretch out the season by adding a short circumnavigation around Carriacou, known as “The Isle of Reefs” to the Kalinago people (the original Island Caribs). We spent our time there dodging bommies (submerged coral reefs) and soaking up the tropical island experience with our feet in the sand, our bellies in the water and our hands on a bottle of rum.

We stopped at Petite Martinique, the third and smallest of the three main islands. There we enjoyed rugged, rocky beaches and side-stepped clusters of goats grazing the green rolling hills as we hiked up Mount Piton for panoramic views of the surrounding islands. We climbed down into the Darant Bay Cave for framed views of the same islands at sea level.

Of course, we couldn’t miss a few sundowners on Mopion, a tiny sand mound rising amid expansive coral reef with a single thatched beach umbrella perched in the center. While technically a part of the Grenadines, its proximity to Petite Martinique made a quick dash across the border for a sip in the shade of this unique little spot a worthwhile experience. Carriacou is an island surrounded by unspoiled reef, and it did not disappoint. A quick tour of her perimeter was the perfect way to salute the end of an amazing Caribbean season.

With a quick stop-over in Ronde Island, a beautiful private island that’s halfway between Carriacou and Grenada, we continued our transit south. Again, I hadn’t prepared myself for the wild beauty of Grenada’s west coast. Mile after mile of dense, lush forest cascade down the leeward side of the island from peak to sea.

We hugged the coastline as we sailed the 13 miles down the west coast, looking up at 2,700 feet of volcanic rock and shear waterfalls that fed small rivers that ran down the slopes of the mountainous interior to the coast. While Grenada is well reputed as a tourist destination for holidaymakers seeking either a sun- drenched party or quiet refuge on one of its 45 beaches, I knew from sailing the coast that my preferences would draw me inland.

Grenada’s coastline contains many large bays, but most yachts head for safe anchorage behind one of the many narrow peninsulas that split up the southern coastline. As we pulled into Prickly Bay, the first of Grenada’s southern harbors, I knew from the crowd of yachts that I would escape to the interior as soon as possible. As it turned out, I didn’t get that chance. As soon as we dropped anchor, we were invited ashore for a cruiser’s jam session to reconnect with friends from past seasons.

The following day we crammed into the back seat of a taxi on our way to an event for the annual Chocolate Festival, and our schedule quickly filled after that with tours of cocoa plantations, cocoa grinding competitions, chocolate tastings and chocolate drawing contests. In additional to the island’s cultural events, we were also immediately drawn into the cruiser’s social scene.

On our first week of arrival our mornings were already booked into early morning yoga and bootcamp on the beach. The kids joined a cruiser’s homeschooling collective and regular extracurricular activities that were held under the shade of the trees. If we weren’t listening to live music or joining the locals’ beach barbecues in the evenings, we were sitting poolside and sipping beers from a $5 bucket with other cruisers at Le Phare Bleu, a boutique hotel that opened its amenities and services to cruisers during the pandemic.

Every morning offered an activity, and every evening we joined a social get-to-gether, so the weeks flew by in a social extravaganza unlike any we’d experienced. As yachts gather in Grenada every year for the hurricane season, the regularity of this influx of boats resulted in a solid cruising community and a variety of services and events. Far more than a collection of retired boats and sunburnt seamen, my preconceived notions of Grenada didn’t come close to the reality of the vibrant cruising network that existed on this popular island.

As we made new friends and reconnected with old ones, we really enjoyed the buzz that the tight community offered.

Pulling myself out of continuous activity took a concerted effort, but I eventually dragged the family off the beach and up the mountains.

After our trip into the interior, I developed a new passion for my time in Grenada: A short bus journey followed by a hike into the forest would lead us to one of Grenada’s many waterfalls. Unlike other tourist destinations where fees were handed over and you’d stand under falls next to groups of other tourists, we had the rivers for free and all to ourselves. Some of the trails were near the road, and we’d hop on and off a bus to walk the short distance to the falls. Others, such as Seven Sisters and the Concord Falls, required planning as it took a full day to hike in and out of the forest, clambering up steep banks and crisscrossing the river to wind through deep forest and get a view from the top.

Each part of the river that ran down from one of the six inland lakes had its own magic, and I was enthusiastic to see what each had to offer. Later I appreciated all that I’d experienced of Grenada’s inland beauty. As I paid $20 per person to stand in crowds under cascading water at Costa Rica’s most popular waterfalls, I couldn’t help but compare it to all that I’d seen in Grenada’s secluded, remote interior.

In additional to nature, we explored some of the historical roots of Grenada’s past. Grenada’s original economy was based on sugar cane and indigo, and with that, slaves were imported in the mid-17th century to work and harvest crops. We set out to search for some of the old plantation houses and slave pens that remained from that period, which took us on a wild tramp through the backstreets of quiet neighborhoods and into unmarked bush to find these lost relics.

It was quite the education for our children to see small, dank, windowless, stone slave quarters set behind grand old houses, a potent reminder of darker times in this beautiful and vibrant country. We also smelled and sampled some of Grenada’s current crops, nutmeg, mace and cocoa at the top of the list of exports, and enjoyed local culinary treats such as oil down, a vegetable stew that is the country’s national dish. Thanks to these excursions we can say that Grenada is, both figuratively and literally, full of sugar and spice.

Cruising often leaves you tied to the boat and, therefore, the sea. Grenada offered a wonderful period of enjoying the most of both land and sea in equal balance, so we were able to get the most of what the country has to offer. To see the beaches but not the forest, lakes and rivers offers only half the experience; likewise, to spend time inland but not explore the coast leaves only half an impression. As Grenada offers safe anchorage throughout the hurricane season, cruisers remain nearby for an extended period, sharing experiences and building friendships. This is unique for a community that is typically very transient, and it offers plenty of opportunity to create a home away from home atmosphere.

In addition, suitable yacht services are available, so that time spent waiting for the next season gives everyone a chance to get much needed repair work done. Far from being the end of the line, Grenada offers an interim rest stop where friendships are forged and yachts are restored on an island that offers a range of activities and opportunities both on and above the waterline.

Article and photos by Kia Koropp

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Our Adventures between the Great Lakes from Detroit to Port Huron
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My husband Tim and I spent 2021 traveling 8,000 miles around the Great Loop. Like many, we wanted to cruise in Canada, but we didn’t get the green light for entry in time. We were initially bummed, but our mood quickly shifted as we discovered some of our favorite stops on the stretch that kept us in U.S. waters, including our journey between Lake Erie and Lake Huron.

Stop 1: Belle Isle

Estimated Mileage: 2 NM

Belle Isle is the largest city-owned island park in America, located on the Detroit River between the United States and Canada. The island’s only marina is the Detroit Yacht Club, which has a limited number of transient slips for reciprocal members, so it’s best to explore while keeping your boat at Milliken Marina. 

Roughly 1,000 acres, Belle Isle is home to an aquarium, maritime museum, botanical garden, beach, picnic areas and playgrounds that provide a plethora of options to explore. You won’t find great spots to grab a bite to eat, so we recommend stopping at Atwater Brewery on the way back to the marina.

Stop 2: Harrison Township, Lake St. Clair

Estimated Mileage: 24 NM

Often referred to as the Great Lake’s smaller cousin, Lake St. Clair is large enough to easily keep your distance from freighters yet small enough to explore in a day.

By boat, you can visit several of the lake’s swimming spots in Anchor and Bouvier Bays (or “Munchies” Bay as the locals say), popular for their clear water and hard bottoms. After an afternoon of swimming, cruise through the Clinton River and tie up at one of several restaurants catering to a lively boater scene for a drink and meal. Crews Inn is one of our favorites for their fun atmosphere and great food.

Lake St. Clair Metropark Marina is a popular spot for transients. The marina is located in the park, so after docking, enjoy the expansive park’s beaches, trails, picnic areas and swimming pool.

Stop 3: Port Huron, MI

Estimated Mileage: 44 NM

Port Huron is home to the start of one of the longest fresh-water races in the world called the Port Huron to Mackinac Sailing Race, and the port is a charming and boater-friendly destination.

Ideal for its central location and friendly members, Port Huron Yacht Club is a great place for tying up, sipping a drink at the clubhouse and avoiding the drawbridges on the Black River. Another popular spot is about a mile farther down the river at the 95-slip River Street Marina.

Port Huron is home to the Island Loop Route National Water Trail, a 10-mile loop through the Black River, Lake Huron and St. Clair River. Your dinghy is a must through the Black River and for exploring the town and clear waters by boat.

Walk a mile along the Blue Water River Walk that runs along the St. Clair River. Be sure to leave enough time to watch the freighters go by and delve into the area’s history that is shared along the route. Continue a couple of miles farther to Lighthouse Park, where you can enjoy an afternoon at the beach and swim in Lake Huron’s crystal clear water.

During a stroll downtown, check out the Knowlton’s Ice Museum of North America to discover the history of local ice harvesting that took place along the Great Lakes.

When you’ve done enough activities to work up an appetite, Casey’s is the place for delicious breadsticks and pizza. For a more upscale option, you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu at The Vintage Tavern. Maria’s Downtown Café offers a hearty breakfast, and Raven Café or Exquisite Corpse Coffee House are great options for a cup of coffee.

Kate Carney is a writer and Great Gold Looper who traveled 8,000 miles on Sweet Day, a 31-foot Camano trawler. Learn more about her and her husband’s adventures on lifeonsweetday.com

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