Weekend Getaway

Orange Beach to Mobile, AL

By
Ellen
Honey

AS YOU AMBLE THE WHITE BEACHES of the Alabama Coast, you leave footprints on sands that once were the tops of the Appalachian Mountains. Transported south at the end of the last Ice Age, the sand is composed of pure white quartz crystals that create the legendary white sugar grains of Alabama beaches. A casual seaside village, an unspoiled natural island and a genteel cosmopolitan city thrive along the history-rich coastline.

Day 1: Orange Beach

A dynamic beach town surrounded by water in all directions, Orange Beach is a fishing wonderland nicknamed the “Red Snapper Capital of the World.” From the bayous to the reefs, and all the way out to the oil rigs, catches include several delicacies beside snapper. The abundance of fresh seafood dishes is found everywhere from shore shack to posh resort.

Unable to drag those toes away from the sand? Make tracks for The Gulf, a casual chic seaside hideaway with a unique shipping container design. Hang out at the bar or a communal table sipping and nibbling in the fragrant salty air.

For eclectic Southern and French-inspired dishes, head off the beaten path to Cosmo’s on Canal Road. Live music on the wooden deck makes Cosmo’s a happy hour favorite. Their Banana Leaf Wrapped Fish is on Alabama tourism’s list of “100 Dishes to Eat Before You Die.” Leave room for Soul Lovin’ Puddin’ or Peanut Butter Pie to finish.

Work off some of those Puddin’ calories on one of the 15 trails at Hugh S. Branyon Back Country Trail Complex. The hiking path winds among six distinct ecosystems within its 6,180 acres. For a more leisurely day, soak up the sunshine on one of the many public beaches.

Orange Beach Marina offers two retail stores and two award-winning restaurants. In a fully protected harbor off Terry Cove just minutes from the Gulf at Perdido Pass and the ICW, it accommodates yachts to 130 feet. Nearby Saunders Yachtworks is family-owned and offers a full-service boatyard.

Where to Dock: Orange Beach Marina

Day 2: Dauphin Island

Orange Beach to Dauphin Island — 28 NM

Source Trac3y on Flickr

As a barrier island, Dauphin is part of a complex estuarine environment that includes sandy beaches, tidal marshes and shallow lagoons rich in sea life. Attractions on the east end of the island include historic Fort Gaines, the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, Indian Shell Mound Park and Audubon Bird Sanctuary. On the west end are beautiful shimmering beaches, public golf courses and parks shaded by ancient oaks.

Dauphin Island is among the top four spots in North America for viewing spring bird migrations. A wide variety of species rest and recuperate on the 137 acres of the Audubon sanctuary whose unique geographic features include forests, marshes and dunes.

For thousands of years, the abundance of food, fresh water and other essential resources made this area a popular seasonal settlement for indigenous people. Indian Shell Mound Park is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in the south. The mounds are believed to be the remnants of seafood meals consumed by Native Americans between 1100 and 1550. Today, Southeastern tribes maintain an ancestral connection to the ancient mounds’ original occupants.

A few blocks from the park is Light- house Bakery. Housed in an historic home, the front porch is a perfect setting for breakfast or one of their infamous cinnamon rolls with pecans. From there, it’s a short walk to The Hippie Fish boutique for not-too-touristy shirts and jewelry.

Any time of day is perfect for a smoothie, a fresh fruit bowl, an amazing waffle or ice cream at Foxy’s Waffle Bar and Sugar Den. Their motto: ALL CHILL! NO FRILL!

The sunsets on Dauphin Island are totally spectacular. View them from one of the local eateries or pick up the highly rated steamer pot from Skinner’s Seafood on Bienville Boulevard and dine on board as the sun sets.

The 235-slip Dauphin Island Marina sits at the base of Dauphin Island Bridge between the ICW and Mobile Bay. The full-service marina amenities include fuel, maintenance and a restaurant.

Where to Dock: Dauphin Island Marina

Day 3: Mobile, AL

Dauphin Island to Mobile — 27 NM

Mobile is one of America’s oldest cities, well known for its miles of streets canopied by majestic oaks. The city’s oldest living resident, the massive 300-year-old Duffee Oak, is just one of the city’s many centenarian live oaks. Beneath the hanging branches, large homes with sweeping front porches are adorned with hanging plants, swings and rockers with colorful pillows, and often a huge cat curled around itself.

Mobile celebrated the first Mardi Gras in the New World in 1703, long before the party began in New Orleans. Here it’s a family-oriented festival where Moon Pies are thrown along the parade route. Whether or not you’re in town for Mardi Gras, the Mobile Carnival Museum provides not only an excellent look into the history of one of the country’s oldest festivals, but also the design of the colorful costumes and the elaborate floats.

Beyond the usual must-see tourist stops—the blooms at Bellingrath Gardens, the retired battleship USS Alabama or the comprehensive GulfQuest National Maritime Museum— Mobile offers several unique adventures.

Dog River Marina | Tony on Flickr

Treasure hunters and bargain chasers flock to the 800 booths spread over 30 acres at the daily Mobile Flea Market. For genuine treasures, the Mobile Museum of Art houses more than 6,400 pieces of American, European and Asian decorative items ranging from contemporary artwork to classical antiquity.

Three centuries of ghosts, hauntings and dark secrets are woven into Mobile’s history. Hear tales of darkness, death and dismemberment on a Dark Secrets Tour of antebellum mansions, overgrown gardens and a church with a mysterious past. The historic Church Street Graveyard is considered one of Alabama’s most haunted cemeteries.

With so much cultural and ethnic diversity in its past and present, Mobile is an excellent place to gain an under- standing of life in the South during the Civil War era. Begin with a narrated tour of the Bragg-Mitchell Mansion, built in 1855. Then take the time to explore more than 40 stops along the Dora Franklin Finley African American Heritage Trail. The historical stories highlighted include early Creoles of color and survivors from the Clotilda, the last African slave ship to enter America in 1860.

Need a break from all the shopping, history and culture? Braided River Brewing Company offers a range of seasonal brews and limited releases. Or, spend the day along the miles of shimmering sand on Mobile Bay accompanied by a colorful beach umbrella and the latest mystery penned by a local author.

The downtown district’s historic buildings, fronted with lacy cast-iron balconies, surround shaded city squares. Art galleries, boutiques and eateries serving traditional Southern cuisine with a sophisticated twist are concentrated along Dauphin Street.

Tuck into A Spot of Tea for daily breakfast, lunch and brunch. While known for its Bananas Foster French toast, (another on one of the state tourism’s “Top 100” lists), the chicken salad is equally notable.

Just down the street is The Noble South, an airy eatery with whitewash walls and orange metal chairs. The brunch menu has irrestibles like Fig Crepes with maple syrup, lemon anglaise and honey roasted pecans.

NoJa, an inviting Mediterranian restaurant housed in an 1840s townhouse, offers seasonal dishes and scrumptious desserts including a Ginger Donut crowned with popcorn ice cream and caramel sauce.

For classic seafood such as shrimp etouffee and gumbo, try Wintzell’s Oyster House which began as a six-stool oyster bar in 1938 and is now a Gulf Coast tradition. Get in the spirit with their signature Dragon Drink, inspired by Vernadean, a beloved fire-breathing Mardi Gras float.

Where to Dock: Dog River Marina

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