Two nautical cities one on the Chesapeake Bay and one on Narragansett Bay, both rich in history and seafaring heritage face off.
Annapolis, known as the sailing capital of the U.S., is home to the National Sailing Hall of Fame & Museum, the Annapolis Sailing School and the site of the United States Sailboat Show (October 5-9, 2017).
Newport holds a longstanding tradition of the sport sailors come from around the world to compete. Stop by the prestigious Newport International Boat Show (September 14-17, 2017). Don't miss a chance for a charter aboard the America's Cup l2 Meters.
Annapolis is not short on its crabfocused offerings. Check out Cantler's Riverside Inn or Mike's Crab House to get your fix of those acclaimed Chesapeake Bay steamed crabs or try the Boatyard Bar & Grill for local seafood and local stories.
Clams are a staple in Newport sample the classic steamed clams (steamers) and mouthwatering clam chowder. Try Midtown Oyster Bar, Benjamin's Restaurant and Raw Bar, and the Black Pearl, known for its clam chowder.
Overflowing with an abundance of boutique shops, local eateries and great waterfront views of Spa Creek, Ego Alley is the city's most popular place to enjoy everything Annapolis has to offer.
Historic walkways, shopping, art galleries and waterfront dining all combine to make up one of Newport's premier year-round destinations. Bowen's Wharf offers free tie-up for dinghies under 12 feet.
Annapolis has an abundance of 18th-century buildings, including the homes of all four Maryland signers of the Declaration of Independence. The United States Naval Academy and the Maryland State House are also popular stops for history buffs.
Visitors frequent the famous Cliff Walk, which combines the natural beauty of the shoreline with the mansions of Newport's gilded age. Also in Newport is Fort Adams, the largest, most sophisticated and complex fortress in America.
The scenic Canal du Midi in southern France is a must for boaters! Cruising this 300-year-old waterway, you will savor the slow easy French pace, passing medieval villages, country farms and vineyards in the heart of the Languedoc wine region. Le Boat, the largest charter boat operation in Europe, offers surprisingly affordable, entry- level charters to this canal (and hundreds of other waterways). This historic passage is easy to navigate, scenic, fun and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Boating at a mellow 5 kilometers an hour aboard your vessel of 30-45 feet, the big excitement is passing through the lock system every few kilometers and arriving in ancient villages as your daily destination on your personal private cruise ship.
Don’t expect a luxury yacht holiday, however, because you are the crew and captain, you will be driving the boat or donning gloves to handle the dock lines in each “écluse” (lock). But it’s entertaining and affords a sense of freedom by chartering your own boat and navigating these centuries-old canals. Le Boat provides itineraries of how far you should voyage each day, but it’s truly up to you.
Our weeklong voyage started in Castelnaudary, a small, pretty village. Le Boat’s base in Castelnaudary is in the Grand Basin with a lovely view of the cathedral and village across the waterway, just a short walk over an old stone bridge to town. We could also see the majestic Pyrenees Mountains to our southwest along the French-Spanish border.
Our first night, after our swift check in and orientation aboard our 40’ Horizon, we strolled to town, enjoyed local Languedoc wine and dinner at the Maison du Cassoulet sampling the specialty dish of slow-cooked white beans, tender pork and duck. Traditional “cassoulet” was a staple historically, especially in meager winters. Wow is it yummy and filling!
While returning over the old stone bridge back to our boat within the fleet, twinkling lights of the village reflected in the canal. We were excited to embark the next morning after a quiet comfy night’s sleep in the berth of our Horizon — Le Boat’s most modern vessel, equipped with a head, shower and full galley kitchen.
Before bed, I read about the fascinating history of the Canal du Midi. It was initially commissioned in 1516 by King Francis who hired Leonardo DaVinci to survey and create the route. Canal construction didn’t commence until 1667 and was completed in 1694, connecting 240 kilometers from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean with aqueducts, bridges and 91 locks to overcome the 620 feet height change in water level.
Designed as a trade route to shorten the otherwise long passage around the Iberian Peninsula, it’s also called the “Canal des Deux Mers” or canal of two seas. This vital trade route for two centuries is now a meandering waterway for pleasure boaters as well as bicyclists riding the tow paths paralleling the canal.
On the first morning, our first lock was the most dramatic, departing Castelnaudary via a series of four locks that descend 9.5 meters in consecutive rushes of water. Captain Greg (my husband) and I established our duties: he’d drive into the narrow stone chamber (thankful for bow thrusters) while I secured lines to the lock shore, ready to adjust as the water floods out.
We traveled in tandem with two other boats, a Swiss family and a German couple. All were experienced boaters, so we developed an efficient rhythm of entering the locks sequentially, tying up, descending and exiting in order.
We cruised 15 locks by noon, then tied to a canal bank for the daily lunchtime lock closure of 12-1:00 p.m. We’d provisioned in Castelnaudary for the perfect picnic of flaky croissants, local ham and cheese, and a glass of Languedoc rosé on our boat’s top sun deck.
When the “Eclusier” (lock operator) returned to open the lock for us, we cruised the canal again with the occasional excitement of encountering oncoming boats in the narrow canal. Some boat captains were better at steering than others.
Our first day, we clocked 19 locks, 26 kilometers from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. We chose to stay overnight in Villesèque, a lovely anchorage with a few other boats tied to the shores. There was no marina, but we could walk to the tiny village over a charming stone bridge to see the church and the Sully elm tree planted in the square, among the last elms still alive in France.
We toasted to our first boat day with wine and cheese on our top deck, and invited over our boat neighbors, a delightful South African couple who proved Le Boat’s international appeal. He’d never boated before, but Le Boat states that you need no prior boating experience.
On Day 2 we cruised under sunny early October skies, loving the canopy of iconic Plane trees that drape some of the river. Unfortunately, much of the 40,000 Plane trees along the 240- kilometer stretch are diseased. Over 25% have the blight and are systematically being cut and burned, a huge undertaking. In parts of the river, trees are being removed, and replanting different species is underway, but it will take time to reestablish the majestic trees.
We arrived midday at the marina of Carcassonne and docked our boat well-positioned for exploring the city, with views of the waterfront park and tour boats coming and going across the Aude River.
Carcassonne exceeded my expectations, and I know now why it’s the second most visited tourist attraction in France (#1 is the Eiffel Tower). La Cité is a massive, fortified castle with 52 spiraling turrets and imposing double walls of rampart circling 3 kilometers perched above a medieval village.
We immediately rode our bikes, provided by our Le Boat charter, up to the fairytale citadel. You can also ride le Petite Train for 7 Euro. Crossing the castle drawbridge, we stepped in to La Cité and the 13th century. Be sure to pay to enter and appreciate the scale of the ramparts and the view of Carcassonne’s lower city and the Pyrenees to the west. Then stroll the maze of medieval cobblestone streets filled with shops and cafés. Lunch at Comte Roger was a chic culinary treat. A real luxury would be to stay at the five-star Hôtel de la Cité for an elegant evening in the illuminated castle.
Back in Carcassonne’s village, we found the grand pedestrian plazas marked by statues and fountains, boutiques, bakeries and casual bistros. It’s a fun city to explore on foot, with provisions aplenty for boaters.
A SIP OR TWO AT LOCAL VINEYARDS
The next morning, after fresh pain au chocolat, we hopped on our bikes to cycle to wineries. Greg guided us with his iPhone’s Komoot app, which maps out recommended hiking and biking routes. Château Auzais (est. 1872) was a wonderful tour and tasting. Our guide described the Occitanie wine’s bouquet as the convergence of Atlantic winds melding with the Mediterranean, as we sipped our favorite wine aptly named “La Cité des Ventes.”
Château de Pennautier was another fantastic estate. The gorgeous 1620 castle was home to the financier of the Canal du Midi construction — the same architect who designed Versailles. The château’s authentic furniture is gorgeous. Reserve an interior castle tour or just stroll the beautiful gardens. From here, we visited the sister winery and restaurant for a lovely lunch and wine tasting of Pennautier’s whites, rosés and reds.
We planned to boat the next day to Trèbes from Carcassonne but biked instead. The tow paths along the canal are ideal, in fact you can cycle faster than you can boat. We waved to fellow charter boats as we breezed by vineyards, farms, locks and bridges. Our return into Carcassonne provided stunning views of two UNESCO World Heritage Sites at once — La Cité Castle and Canal du Midi.
Our return trip from Carcassonne to Castelnaudary only took a day through 24 locks and 30 kilometers with our now well-orchestrated rhythm of navigating locks. Our timing was good for the opening of most locks, and we traveled solo, as mid-October is end of the season the lock keeper told me. Summer is very busy on the canal, with boats in a queue for their turn in locks, and busier marinas.
As for the voyage, I recommend you plan one-way (for an upcharge) for the adventure of all new places along your voyage. The round trip had us retracing our passage, viewing previous scenery. We prefer the excitement of not knowing what’s around the next river bend and discovering new villages.
Also ascending the locks, going upriver, is more difficult. Captain Greg would let me off on a dock before the lock, I’d walk ahead and retrieve his tossed lines to secure the boat, we’d adjust during the rush of cascading water, then I’d board our boat when it came to the top of the full lock.
We felt a tremendous sense of accomplishment, having completed our week with success (i.e. no one fell in, no damage to boat). Our final day was leisurely aboard the boat, walking Castelnaudary’s village to a delightful bakery, to the cathedral and up the hill to the windmill, a wonderful 17th century Moulin with splendid views of Black Mountain and the French countryside. We biked along the canal, then relaxed on our boat’s sun deck viewing the Spanish peaks where we planned to ski in winter.
Our check out was quick but thorough. Le Boat’s fleet varies in age, so I was happy we’d opted for the newer spacious Horizon model. Funny, other couples posed for selfies by our boat preferring our more sophisticated-looking vessel for their posts. Some of the older boats are a bit banged up from lock passages, a testament to the “no license or experience required” policy of Le Boat.
We’re already browsing Le Boat’s itineraries: Italy, Germany, Scotland, Ireland, England, the Netherlands or Canada for our next charter adventure.
“WOW!” WAS ALL I COULD COME UP WITH when my neighbor asked, “So, how was Croatia?” I simply ran out of adjectives to express the beauty and allure of this country. With its unique combination of history, culture, cuisine, friendly locals, rugged mountains, long coastline and crystalline blue waters, not to mention hosting a world-class boating scene, it’s easy to see how Croatia is becoming a popular destination with something to excite everyone.
If you are looking for history, then exploring one of the many Croatian UNESCO World Heritage Sites will quench your passion for the past. Transport yourself back to the 4th century AD with a stroll through the remnants of a Roman emperor’s palace. Wander through one of the best-preserved Roman coliseums in the world, and you can almost hear gladiators’ swords clashing against wooden shields.
Croatia’s story is woven together with charming medieval hill towns where regal bell towers seem to pierce the heavens. Climb the ancient tower’s stone steps spiraling to the top and be rewarded with breathtaking vistas. Look straight down past the windows with a line of colorful laundry fluttering in the breeze and on to the delightfully twisty cobblestone streets just wide enough for a donkey cart to pass. Now, centuries later these lanes are lined with enticing artisan shops, gelato stands, and tucked into every bend, a little sidewalk café begging to be discovered.
Ruins of castles and fortresses dot not only the coastline but many of the islands. Standing guard, their thick limestone walls once provided safe haven to the residents within, and now only serve as a testament of a more turbulent time. Walk along the massive stone fortifications and peer down into the moat, and one can almost feel the thunder of horse hooves as knights ride across the drawbridge.
Surround yourself in the art of the ages by stepping inside Croatia’s sacred churches and splendid cathedrals, the architecture spanning the Gothic, Romanesque and Baroque periods.
Although it is possible to stay in a Hilton-style hotel or rent a Mediterranean villa by the sea, you have other options. We chose to immerse ourselves in the medieval world by staying in the heart of the old town centers in family-run studio apartments. Sleeping under a roof that dated back 600 years enriched our Croatia experience while also supporting a local family business. These cozy apartments are refurbished to modern standards and are as comfortable as any four-star hotel.
If you’re a nature lover, Croatia boasts eight national parks. One can hike a lake rim and descent onto a series of wooden boardwalks meandering among turquoise waterfalls giving a unique on-the-water view of Mother Nature’s power or try backpacking through an island forest. However, you do not have to go to a national park to be enveloped in nature, as Croatia is a wonderland anywhere you turn.
If you’re into adrenaline sports, Croatia can provide all you need from bungee jumping to zip lining. For those leaning toward adventure with less heart stopping action, cycling, paddleboarding, sea kayaking or snorkeling are popular choices. My favorite jaunt was an all-day off-road dune buggy ride with a final stop at a local winery for a tour and tasting.
Croatia has a long history in winemaking, and wine tourism is becoming increasingly popular. Croatia cuisine reflects the flavors of central Europe, Italy and the Mediterranean. The coast of the Adriatic Sea is famous for its fish and seafood dishes while the inland menu features hearty meat platters. Sharing a border with Italy, it’s not unusual to be enticed with handmade pasta or even pizza.
Wrapped around all these sensory experiences is the Croatian people. Perhaps it’s due to the mild Mediterranean climate that the locals exude, a version of a “malo po malo” or “little by little” attitude that entices us fast-paced city dwellers to slow down and take in life. Pausing for a wine spritzer or cappuccino at a sidewalk café could last hours, and it’s not only quite all right...it’s expected. As a local told us; “There’s no such thing as coffee to-go in Croatia.”
CRUISING CROATIA’S DRAMATIC SHORELINE
This small country is touted as the number one sailing destination in Europe, and with good reason. Rivaling the West Coast of the United States in length, Croatia’s shores are lined with protected ports and marinas that support a wide range of options for visiting the more than 1,200 islands. So, it’s no wonder that each year many visitors opt to explore Croatia by water.
If your taste leans toward a traditional cruise line, you will find an ample supply of lavish cruise ships capable of hosting more than 3,000 guests making overnight stops at the most popular ports of call.
For those seeking a more intimate experience, it’s increasingly popular to book a cabin on a 20 to 40 passenger luxury yacht. Croatia specializes in these small ship cruise lines, because they can explore tiny islands with hidden coves and access regions of the coast larger ships can’t navigate. Becoming your mobile boutique hotel, these opulent yachts boast the finest service, cuisine, spacious teak sundecks and even jacuzzis to enjoy your final nightcap.
Looking to be captured by the romance of exploring the Adriatic under sail? Then your hot ticket may be booking a cabin on one of the smaller eight to 16 passenger schooners known as gulets. Handcrafted of mahogany, pine and teak, these motor-sailing gulets offer a marvelous blend of modern-day comforts with charms of tradition. Potentially a little more laidback, swimming, sunbathing and just plain relaxing become a favorite pastime of the guests.
If you’re a bit more on the adventurous side, contact one of the many charter boat companies servicing Croatia to reserve your own sailboat or powerboat. Both are available as bareboat or skippered charters. Many choose a local captain to handle the boat and play guide, allowing you to kickback and gain a sense of the culture, all the while discovering his favorite anchorages, villages and local restaurants you would have missed along the way. You just might end the cruise with a new best friend.
If you’re land trekking and want a quick taste of boating life in the Adriatic, wander down to the harbor and book a day cruise from a variety of island tours or dinner cruises offered on small excursion boats.
After a full day of exploring, we often found ourselves joining the locals sitting on the rocky shoreline and hoisting our drinks to yet another magnificent Adriatic sunset.
A WINE LOVER’S SECRET PILGRIMAGE
Ever tasted Grk wine? If not, don’t feel bad. Most people, including wine connoisseurs, have never heard of, much less tasted, Grk “Gerk” wine. This Holy Grail of wines is one of the more elusive vinos in the world that ironically enjoys an almost cult-like following in Croatia.
Among wine specialists, there is no consensus whether this peculiar three letter name comes from the wine’s taste (to locals, Grk translates to bitter) or the origins of the first grapes brought to this area by the Greeks, which is also Grk in Croatian.
Around the 3rd century BC, ancient Greeks settled just off the coast of what is now mainland Croatia to a small island called Korčula bringing their precious vines. The southern slopes provided what Grk likes the most: excellent sandy soil and temperature stability under the influence of the surrounding sea. Vines enjoy sunny days, and locals swear that the grapes also benefit from the added reflection of the sun both off the water and the rocky hillsides behind.
These factors seem to be the sweet spot for cultivating this rare variety; however, the precious microclimate only exists in less than 100 acres of coastal land, which is the entirety of all the Grk planted in the world. Cultivation on other islands or in other parts of the country and the world have failed for the most part, making this one of the rarest grapes and categorized as “almost endangered” by the State Institute for Nature Protection.
To make matters worse, Grk is among the 1% of grape varieties in the world that cannot self-pollinate. Because Grk has only female flowers, it is always planted with the male grape vine nearby to enable pollination. This additional complication also hampers the desire to upscale commercial production.
Limited in production, it’s rare to see Grk wine served or sold outside Korčula. So, the best chance to savor this wine is to visit the handful of family wineries producing Grk. During summer when Korčula welcomes a massive influx of tourists, almost the entire production of Grk wine can be consumed within a season.
MEET ME AT THE WINERY
Time to start my Grk quest. I took the two-hour ferry ride to the island of Korčula, and a short bus ride left me within walking distance of three family wineries. Confession: I had planned to visit all three wineries, but after I got settled into my wine sampling accompanied by a delectable charcuterie board, I began easing into island time and whiling away the afternoon at just one winery.
A tour of the production was accomplished practically from my seat overlooking the vineyards. I did walk over to view the wine cellar, which had enough room to house only eight wine barrels. These are tiny boutique wineries, and the labor of love that goes into making this wine is evident. I asked the owner if they bottled their wine to sell or import off the island. Looking at me quizzically, he replied that it was for sale only for individuals that came to visit the winery, and they sold out each year.
But was it good? As more of a full-bodied red wine lover, I didn’t know what to expect when he poured this pale golden wine. It was fabulous. It displayed an astounding depth and complexity I usually do not associate with white wine. The taste and texture were dry with hints of pine, citrus and saltiness leaving a subtle touch of tartness or bitterness at the finish.
I left the winery feeling my quest was accomplished. I smiled knowing that the bottle of Grk swaying in my backpack wasn’t going to make it back to the United States in my carry-on luggage, so I’d just have to enjoy it here. Now I have one more reason to return.
The South is well-known for the hospitality of its people, the freshness of the seafood and the flavors of down-home cooking. What more could you ask for during a getaway? Well, it turns out, a lot! Resorts offer opportunities to do it all or do absolutely nothing in spectacular settings. Check out the following vacation options, which range from ultramodern island getaways to dignified historic grand dames.
On the beachfront where the Atlantic joins Currituck Sound, this Outer Banks resort offers nonstop motion or endless relaxation in peaceful waterside surroundings. Fly a kite beachside, hit a golf or tennis ball, go hang-gliding or roam with wild horses. Water lovers can take surf lessons, plunge into the Atlantic or lounge by the tranquility pool sipping on a drink from the Sandbar. The award-winning Spa at Sanderling offers coastal and seasonal treatments with views of tranquil Currituck Sound.
For refined dining, try Kimball’s Kitchen, (reopens on Memorial Day) and for all-day service, The Lifesaving Station is located in the 1874 Caffey’s Inlet Lifesaving Station. Although the closest marina is about 30 minutes away in Nags Head, this resort is too scenic to be excluded and OBX First Watch provides transport service to the resort.
Unlimited land and sea recreation awaits on these 5,000 pristine oceanfront acres. Spend a morning touring the 605-acre forest preserve, explore the grounds on horseback or bicycle, or grab a kayak and join playful dolphins lounging along the beach.
The soothing rhythms of nature surround accommodations ranging from the romantic seaside hideaway Inn & Club at Harbour Town to the luxurious vacation homes for families. The Quarterdeck has a rooftop oyster bar with perfect sunset views overlooking Calibogue Sound.
Designed to feel like a casually elegant seaside mansion, The Sanctuary’s live oak framed entrance gives the resort a centuries old ambiance. In addition to the golf course, spa and pools overlooking the coastal Carolina landscape, guests enjoy miles of wide beach that glow pink at sunset.
Eateries across the island offer a diverse range of culinary items true to coastal Carolina roots. It’s Lowcountry cooking all day at Jasmine Porch. Shrimp & Grits (buttered local shrimp, organic grits and tasso ham cloaked in sweet pepper, onion and tomato gravy) is irresistible.
A classic Southern escape nestled along the scenic May River, the Montage is set within an active 20,000-acre community between Hilton Head Island and Savannah. The collection of spacious cottages, suites and village homes honor the region’s rich heritage as does the Lowcountry-inspired fare served with traditional Southern hospitality. Salute the morning at Buzz with fresh brewed coffee and house-made pastries. The dinner menu at River House celebrates both land and water with steak, seafood and game offerings.
The resort encompasses an extensive nature preserve, plus golfing, fishing, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding. Spa Montage uses local elements to provide authentic coastal plains wellness treatments inspired by nature.
Centered on 5,700 virtually undisturbed acres, this award-winning resort offers the historic charms of the Jekyll Island Club and adjacent Island Cottages, or the modern appeal of the beachfront Jekyll Ocean Club. Throughout the property are a multitude of land and water activities, a variety of dining options, a sun-warmed pool with fire pit as well as direct access to the National Historic Landmark District and complimentary shuttle to the ocean beaches. From the pool deck of the Jekyll Ocean Club, follow the footpath over the dunes for a day on the sand.
The verandas surrounding the famed clubhouse dating back to 1888 were designed to provide spectacular views. Bring a Pat Conroy novel and nestle into one of the porch’s rocking chairs overlooking the croquet lawn and riverfront.
Recognized as one of America’s most iconic resorts, this Italian Renaissance-style hotel is situated on 140 acres of oceanfront property. Still in the hands of founder Henry M. Flagler’s heirs, this legendary property remains independent of chain affiliation.
The Breakers Mediterranean-style architecture is inspired by Italian villas of the 15th century (i.e. the Villa Medici in Rome) The palm-lined drive leads to a sea-side palace with a lobby influenced by the Great Hall of the Palazzo Carrega in Genoa. Steeped in the glamour of a bygone era, yet wholly current, there are two golf courses, 10 tennis courts, a Forbes five-star spa and an alfresco shopping plaza. The private poolside cabanas have flat-screens and concierge service.
Restaurants range from casual beachfront to stylishly sophisticated. The Circle’s arched windows offer glimpses of the Atlantic and a soaring 30-foot, hand-painted ceiling. Sunday mornings, seasoned travelers and locals come to The Circle for an artfully crafted buffet brunch experience.
Currently undergoing yet another reimagination project, the grandest of all the 1920s Boom Era hotels remains pink, proud and preserved. A wide range of celebrities and notables have graced The Vinoy veranda at one time or another.
The hotel’s history is fascinating. In 1942, it was leased to the U.S. Army Air Force and subsequently the U.S. Maritime Service as a training center and housing for military cooks and bakers. By the 1970s, The Vinoy had declined into a low-rent boarding house, commanding $7 per night, far less than the extravagant nightly rate of $20 in 1925. Ironically, in 1990 as the painstaking restoration of this local treasure began, the hotel revealed a treasure of its own. Workers discovered a vault containing 1,400 silver pieces stamped “The Vinoy” and wrapped in newspapers dated 1934. Most amenities including golf, tennis, spa, pools and dining areas are open during the latest upgrades.
& SPA |Little Torch Key, FL This secluded adults-only retreat features British West Indies-style thatched roof bungalows. A private island with crushed seashell paths winding through lush foliage and exotic wildlife, it is accessible only by boat or seaplane. All amenities, including an indoor-outdoor spa, deliver exotic charm reminiscent of a Balinese hideaway. A menu worthy of paradise is served in the plush dining room or at idyllic beachside tables.
Away from the island seclusion, find deep sea fishing, natural reef snorkeling or kayaking through the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge. Visit the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, an amazing ecosystem for world-class diving, swimming, snorkeling and fishing.
This tropically inspired getaway sits halfway between Houston and Galveston on Clear Lake, the country’s third largest boating destination. Kemah Boardwalk and its 60-acre theme park with chic shopping and waterfront dining options is just moments away.
Soak in the sunshine at the 185-foot oasis pool at the private cabanas and outdoor lounge. Swim right up to the bar for a poolside lunch. Evening time, dine al fresco at Opus Steakhouse and Bistro.