The Blessed Isles: More than Just a Stop Over

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"Might as well get going" said my dad as we stood on the dock, fresh out of things to prepare. I laughed to myself and replied, "Yeah, I guess we might as well." That conversation plays out in my head every time I set out on a boat a sign that all preparations are complete, and it's time to start the trip.

When my father asked me to help him deliver his Hatteras 40 from Charleston to Cape May via the ICW, I jumped at the chance to return to a special place in my life (I spent my summers in Cape May growing up) and spend bonding time with my dad. But I was not without apprehension. It would be my first trip on the ICW, his first in years, and the first on a new-to-him vessel. While I spend a lot of time on the water as a sailor, the twin diesels of the Hatteras were new to me.

As we were about to push off, dolphins showed up, easing the inevitable start-of-voyage jitters that accompany any trip. As we turned into Charleston Harbor and pointed toward the markers at the entrance to the first portion of the waterway heading north, our three dolphin friends escorted us through the channel markers. I took it as a good sign.

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Starting Point: Charleston, SC

Estimated Mileage: 48 NM

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‍We were warned that the first stretch of waterway was known for scattered shallow spots in the first few miles, but we found none. As waterfront homes of Sullivan's Island and Isle of Palms slowly peeled away to reveal the quiet wilderness of the Santee Coastal Reserve, I thought, "This is the ICW I imagined. Pristine, undeveloped and peaceful."

In the coming days, I would learn this was only part of the story. We pulled into Georgetown for the evening, and our first day was behind us. With that came the simple lesson: the only way to get over the nervousness of a trip is to start the journey. We slept well that night knowing we had done so.

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Leg 1: Georgetown, SC to Southport, NC

Estimated Mileage: 72 NM

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‍Leaving Georgetown and heading north up the Waccamaw River, the previous afternoon's tranquility continued. The soft light over the marshlands showed that ours was the only wake in sight, save for a few passing southbound boats. It was an easy way to start the day. And then ... Myrtle Beach ... on a Saturday... in June. The morning peacefulness gave way to a bustling stretch of waterway filled with all sorts of people enjoying the day center consoles, water skiers, kayakers, stand-up paddlers, floating tiki bars. Mile after mile of developed waterfront checked our speed and changed our perspective.

Eventually, we cleared through the beautiful chaos of Myrtle Beach, crossed into North Carolina and preceded toward that night's destination, Southport, NC. This was our first time experiencing the wonderful ICW phenomenon of just pulling over to dock on the proverbial side of the road. We settled into the facing fuel dock at Southport Marina and marveled at how the ICW contains multitudes of experiences.

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Leg 2: Southport to Beaufort, NC

Estimated Mileage: 83 NM

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‍The weather was mostly settled with morning showers, and thunderstorms were predicted, but clear skies were forecasted for the afternoon. Only on Day 3, we still were under the misguided illusion that the schedule was ours to keep. We wanted to cover some ground today, so we ducked out of the well-marked and relatively easy Masonboro Inlet for an outside run up the Atlantic to Beaufort, NC.

As we approached the Inlet, a local Sunday morning sailing race was underway. Half the fleet made it out of the inlet with us before we heard on the radio that the race committee was recalling the fleet due to approaching thunderstorms. We debated staying inside, but the weather quickly passed us, and we rode the gentle swell up to Beaufort Inlet. It was good to get in the miles by going outside the ICW, but we realized that was not the point of this trip. Leaving the ICW, we missed the variety that the waterway provides. We stayed inside for the rest of the trip to enjoy the view.

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Leg 3: Beaufort to Belhaven, NC

Estimated Mileage: 50 NM

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‍On a trip up the ICW, you discover it's anything but a highway. Leaving Beaufort, we noted how the waterway that we experienced thus far was a straight-line narrow cut with land close by on either side, often called the proverbial ditch. But the ICW also provides moments of wide-open beauty.Heading out of Beaufort and north up Adams Creek, the ICW gives way to the relative vastness of the Neuse River and Pamlico Sound. Navigation aids are more spaced out, and the wind waves have more room to gather up. We traveled a short stretch of the Sound, pulled into beautiful Belhaven Marina for the night and found the sleepy but utterly charming town was a great place to stop.

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Leg 4: Belhaven to Coinjock, NC

Estimated Mileage: 58 NM

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Years of boating taught me that you seldom go five days without seeing weather that you'd rather not see. The past four days were pretty good weather-wise, so we were due for something else. Pulling out of Belhaven in light sprinkles and overcast skies, we entered the famed Alligator-Pungo River Canal. This is truly the ditch 21 miles of a virtual straight line that connects the Pungo and Alligator Rivers. It is narrow and long, and it helps to see where you are going.Fortunately, the weather cooperated, and we navigated the canal with ease. But just as we emerged into the wide-open Alligator River, heavy rains and stiff squalls closed in around us. I'm always nervous with weather, but my dad has a measured demeanor, so he put me at ease. We picked our way from buoy to buoy and emerged from the storm just as we passed through Alligator River Swing Bridge and started across Albemarle Sound for the evening's destination, Coinjock Marina & Restaurant. Here I learned the real lesson of the day order the prime rib!

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Leg 5: Coinjock, NC to Norfolk, VA

Estimated Mileage: 34 NM

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‍On every trip, you reach a point where you've gone over the hump. With five days of ICW behind us, we hit that point and could sense a change coming. We left Coinjock and picked our way across the long, shallow Currituck Sound into Virginia. As we wound our way through the meandering and pristine North Landing River Natural Area Preserve, both of us were excited to make Norfolk that evening and enter the Chesapeake for our final stretch. Several bridges are on this stretch of the ICW, but our timing was good, and we passed each without much wait.

Sliding through the Great Bridge Locks, we approached Norfolk. The city and its surrounding waterways' bustle was an absolute eye-opener after the past few days. It made the pace of Myrtle Beach seem bucolic. We slept well, knowing that we had come to mile zero on the ICW safely.

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Leg 6: Chesapeake Bay: Norfolk, VA to Chesapeake & Delaware Canal

Estimated Mileage: 200 NM

‍If approaching Norfolk from the south is eye-opening, then traveling into the Chesapeake past the heart of the Naval docks is something else entirely. Mile after mile of grey steel. More naval ships that I'd ever seen in one place. Amazing! And just like that, you pass over Hampton Roads Tunnels, enter the Chesapeake and you're back to wide-open beauty.

Our time in the Bay was a bit rushed. I had to return to commitments at home, so we had to get in some miles now. The plan: proceed to Solomons for a night and then reach the C&D Canal. However, our optimistic timetable did not stop the Chesapeake from dealing us a few lessons along the way.

The Chesapeake does not care about your schedule. The weather was too crummy in Solomons to leave, so we wisely decided to stay an extra day. When we finally poked out of the Patuxent River, we realized the residual effects of the rain was still evident. The Bay delivered a wild ride, with wind, rain, short chop and limited visibility for a few hours. We pondered cutting our day short, but the weather lifted quickly. By the time we passed Annapolis, blue skies and flat seas surrounded us all the way to the C&D Canal. It was amazing how quickly and dramatically conditions on the Bay changed for the better.

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Leg 7: Chesapeake City to Cape May, NJ

Estimated Mileage: 54 NM

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‍After transiting the C&D Canal and entering the Delaware Bay for the final stretch, we were truly in home waters. But despite the time I spent on the Bay growing up, I had never navigated a boat down this tricky body of water. The Delaware is busy, with a narrow channel and many big working boats. We hugged the channel's edge as we made our way down the Bay leaving ample room for others.

As the bay widened out, we plotted our approach to Cape May Harbor. Our entry took us through the Cape May Canal and into the harbor, then on to the boats' summer berth, not far from where I had spent my childhood summers. With the trip virtually complete, we experienced the bittersweet feeling of nearing our destination. And the final stretch provided perhaps the best lesson of all: When you get the opportunity to bring a boat from one place to another with your old man, take it.

The beautiful island of Antigua was our destination for a short Caribbean getaway. Having visited many of the Caribbean islands, we were looking forward to exploring a new tropical locale and experiencing the wonderful local charm, culture, vistas and beaches. In fact, this Eastern Caribbean island boasts 365 beaches: one for every day of the year!

My travel companions for the week included my husband Jim, brother Anthony and sister-in-law, Amanda. Always a great group to travel with (our last adventure together led us to Greece, Italy and Croatia), so I knew a fun week filled with laughter was in store.

As we peered out the airplane window on the approach to Antigua, we were instantly mesmerized by the pure turquoise blue waters and rolling green hills, and eager to get out on the water.

For my brother, this trip was not just an ordinary vacation. While it was my first time visiting the island, my brother has incredibly fond memories of trips to Antigua during the 1970s as a child, traveling with his grandparents, affectionately known to us as Meemah and Deedah. This week was an opportunity to share with us one of his favorite places in the world.

Anthony decided the best way to explore the island was by land and by sea. The first part of our trip was spent touring the island with a local driver and tour guide named Elvis, who is a native Antiguan living in one of the six parishes on the island with his wife and children. When Anthony spotted him on the beach wearing a Yankee cap, he knew this was the tour guide for us. Anthony and Elvis instantly bonded (even discovering they shared a birthday) and together planned our extraordinary excursion.

Our tour of the island started with a visit to St. Johns, the capital city of Antigua. While part of the town is geared toward the large cruise ships that help support the local economy, St. Johns retains its charm, filled with farmers markets, stalls and local restaurants. Amanda was immediately enchanted by one of the young local shopkeepers selling souvenirs with his mom.

The next stop was Betty's Hope, one of the earliest sugar plantations dating back to 1651. The sugar mills are beautifully preserved, and we learned about the large role these sugar plantations played in Antigua's history. While enjoying the scenery at Betty's Hope, Elvis surprised us with homemade sandwiches and rum punch. A delightful snack to recharge us for the next stop -- Devil's Bridge in the Indian Town National Park.

Devil's Bridge is a natural stone arch that was carved from the rocky coast by the constant pounding of waves. Locals say its name comes from surges of water that snatch away people who stray too close to the edge. The area around the arch features several natural blowholes that shoot up water and spray powered by waves from the Atlantic Ocean.

While Jim and I stayed far from the edge, Anthony ventured out close to the bridge for a unique photo opportunity. Later in the week, we would have a chance to see this incredible rock formation from the ocean.

We continued to travel up the rolling hills to Shirley Heights Lookout, first used during the Revolutionary War as a signal station and lookout for approaches to English Harbor. It is truly one of the most spectacular vistas I have ever seen.

Having reached the highest point in Antigua, it was time to get back to sea level. Our next stop centered around Nelson's Dockyard, a working Georgian-era naval dockyard, designated as a world heritage site in 2016. We delighted in exploring the dockyard and gazing over the beautiful yachts and sailboats moored at the Antigua Yacht Club Marina.

Driving through the lush dense greenery of the rainforest led us to an Antigua delicacy the black pineapple. On the side of the road just outside the rain forest, we stopped at a local fruit stand and chatted with the proprietor while she carved us a fresh black pineapple, known as the sweetest in the world. It definitely lived up to its reputation.

The final stop on our island tour was my favorite -- a chance to taste the island cuisine! Elvis called ahead of our arrival and requested a platter of local foods for us to sample. We arrived at Darkwood Beach Bar & Restaurant and were immediately welcomed by the staff.

After selecting a table near the beach and ordering the national beer of Antigua, Wadidli (another name for the island itself), we had the privilege of hearing Elvis' story, learning more about his life and family, and even calling his wife to thank her for the yummy sandwiches. Then we feasted on fungee and pepperpot, a hearty meat stew with eggplant, pumpkin and squash, as well as local Caribbean lobster, curries and roti. All in all, an amazing way to end a spectacular day. We said goodbye to Elvis, exchanging addresses and knowing we had made a friend for life.

After exploring Antigua north to south and east to west, we opted for a catamaran tour to circumnavigate the island as our next adventure. The morning was spent pleasantly motoring in the calm blue waters of the Caribbean Sea around the north side of the island. Before we knew it, we were sailing along in the open Atlantic Ocean passing by Long Island, also known as Jumby Bay and a popular destination for celebrities.

After a wonderful morning on the water, we anchored in a protected cove for a stop to swim, snorkel and eat lunch near Green Island. It was a perfect destination for Amanda's first snorkeling excursion. After spotting a large sea turtle, magnificent coral reefs and exotic fish, we enjoyed a lazy swim near the beautiful powdery white sand of Green Island Beach.

Following a traditional lunch of jerk chicken, rice and plantains, we continued our journey around the island down to the southern tip to experience English Harbor and Devil's Bridge from the water. It was even more extraordinary from this vantage point.

As the sun started to dip low in the sky, we returned to the Caribbean Sea on the western side of the island watching a storm brewing in the distance. During the quiet sail back, each of us felt grateful for another magnificent day in paradise.

While traveling with your closest friends is always fun, my favorite memories of our time on this magical island were Anthony's reflections of his previous trips to Antigua with his grandparents, the excitement at sharing his favorite place with his new wife, and the joy that much of the island remained as he remembered it. We are already planning our next trip to Antigua!

‍STORY BY JEN LEROUX, CEO OF MARINALIFE; PHOTOS BY ANTHONY DESANTIS

SAILING ACROSS AN OCEAN IS OFTEN SEEN AS A MARINER's BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT. With 4,000 miles between America and Europe, the distance across the Atlantic means a four-week transit across a temperamental ocean. For this reason, a small collection of mid-Atlantic islands earned the name, The Blessed Isles. Officially called Macaronesia, these four island groups the Azores, Madeira, Canaries and Cape Verde have played a central role in trans-Atlantic trade since boats first started long-distance voyages.[caption id="attachment_324683" align="alignleft" width="300"]

Kia Koropp and John Daubeny with their children, Braca and Ayla in Los Lobos | John McCuen[/caption]Located west of Portugal, Spain and the north-African coast in the Eastern Atlantic Ocean, they continue to offer a mid-passage respite for modern-day mariners keen for a short break in route between the two continents.The four island groups are often considered relatively similar. All are volcanic in origin with several of the islands still active (as illustrated by the recent eruption of Cumbre Vieja in Las Palmas, Canaries in September 2021).Isolation from the mainland allowed species of animal and fauna to flourish, and their exposure to strong trade winds means a harsh environment during the northern winter.During my family's voyage here, we wanted to cut our trans-Atlantic passage by adding a mid-Atlantic stop, so we used the Canaries as a break point. Our plan: A week transit from Europe to the Canaries and then a three-week sail to the Caribbean.The Canaries is an autonomous region of Spain that consists of 13 islands. Given the geographic similarity to the Macaronesia islands, I was expecting an extension of Madeira and the Azores, but I couldn't have been more misinformed. Instead, we saw vast diversity within an island group. Each of the 13 islands has its own unique environment with a fascinating heritage that is evident today. To see one island is certainly not to have seen the others.

Tenerife Cave Dwellings

The original settlers of the Canaries were the Guanches who arrived from Africa in the 1st or 2nd century. They settled in caves across the islands, concentrated in Tenerife. What fascinated me about this history is that people still live in these cave dwellings today. Excursions throughout the countryside revealed numerous dwellings spread across the island with drying laundry splayed out on lines, dogs lounging outside cave entrances, chairs perched aside a rock wall and chickens living in their coops all scattered evidence of human habitation.We found isolated valleys where large communities were dispersed across a mountainside with small footpaths winding their way up the slope. I was intrigued by this current cave culture, still alive and vibrant. I've travelled to many countries where old cave dwellings are protected as UNESCO Heritage Sites, but this was the first time I'd seen established villages in remote caves. I drove aimlessly throughout the island, trying to find as many cave dwellings as I could discover a surprisingly easy feat given the number of them spread out throughout the Canaries.

Lanzarote Volcanic Vineyards

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Cave settlements dot the hillsides across the Canaries. | Kia Koropp[/caption]Both the Azores and Canaries have developed a unique form of viticulture in a very inhospitable region. It's hard to imagine that someone can grow anything but the most rugged crop in the rocky, volcanic soil. Grape vines were the last thing I expected to crisscross the region. However, ingenious vintners have done just that they created an environment where grapes not only grow, but thrive.This form of deep-root horticulture called arenado is unique to Lanzarote. Small semi-circular walls called zoco are made from black lava stones that protect a single vine, providing a barrier against strong trade winds. It's a labor-intensive form of cultivation as each crater holds one vine, making hand-picked grapes the only option for harvesting. I did not anticipate a wine-tasting on our mid-Atlantic stop, but it was delicious and historically fascinating.

Lava Tubes & Subterranean Tunnels

Lava tubes and deep volcanic caverns riddle the Canary Islands. Several islands, such as Gran Canaria and Tenerife, have extensive pyroclastic fields and some display dramatic volcanic cones with impressive craters, such as Teide on Tenerife and Cumbre Vieja on La Palma.Given the range of erosional stages of the volcanic islands, each one offers a unique perspective. This means we could hike to the top of a volcanic rim that is covered in deep foliage (Gran Canaria), walk through volcanic moonscapes (Los Lobos), wander deep inside massive caverns (Lanzarote) and follow lava tubes deep inside (Tenerife).The different stages of each island display both the devastation and the beauty that volcanoes bring. As one explodes, another holds a breathtaking amphitheater and a species of blind crab that is indigenous to the island. While locals continue to deal with the aftermath of Cumbre Vieja's violent explosion on La Palma, Cueva de los Verdes, Lanzarote holds concerts for an audience of 500 in its expansive cavern and provides sanctuary to a species of blind albino cave crabs in its deep-turquoise underground freshwater lagoon.

Underwater Sculpture Garden

Equally unique to the Canaries is Europe's first underwater sculpture garden, a collection of 12 installations laid down by sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor to raise social and environmental awareness. Museo Atlántico was made public in 2017 and holds 300 life-sized human figures performing everyday tasks: a couple holding hands, a man sitting on a swing, fishermen in their boats, someone taking a selfie. Four years on and the sculptures are starting to create a decent false reef. The effect is impressive ... and rather eerie. My dive at the site remains an unforgettable experience that should not be missed on a trip through Lanzarote.[caption id="attachment_324684" align="alignleft" width="225"]

Examples of individual exhibits in the Museo Atlántico underwater sculpture park, Lanzarote | Kia Koropp[/caption]Many sailors use the largest of the Canary Islands, Las Palmas in Gran Canaria, solely for provisioning and boat preparation before a trans-Atlantic passage. However, if you bypass the islands that surround the main island you'd miss out on interesting and diverse islands that should be a highlight destination in the Eastern Atlantic. The ones we visited on our sail through the island group were a continuous series of unfolding surprises.The villages hold their own quaint small-town European character, and each island offers an experience drastically different than its neighbor. From the bustle of Gran Canaries largest city, Las Palmas, to the silent cave dwellers of its outer communities; from the enormous sand dunes of Fuertaventura's ParqueNatural de las Dunas to the barren volcanic cone of Los Lobos to the lush laurel forest of Los Tilos de Moya in Gran Canaria; from sea to inland lake to crater rim to underground tunnels; from camel back to mountaintop to mid-city cafes. The Canaries' special diversity makes a hop-through in route from America to Europe a must-see adventure.

A double whammy. That's how I'd describe taking on the cruising life a second time around. As if moving from a sailboat to a powerboat, from two hulls to one, and swapping coasts wasn't change enough, we are also downshifting into retirement mode.[caption id="attachment_324200" align="alignleft" width="300"]

Retirement! On the road to Florida | April Winship[/caption]Even after a decade of cruising with our two young daughters, I am not prepared for the seesaw of emotions I'm about to face on our new endeavor. Unlike our previous sailing adventures, this time around won't be a family affair on the boat, and it's difficult to wave goodbye as our grown daughters disappear in my rearview mirror.Ahead of us lays 3,300 miles of highway unfolding like an undulating ribbon. Our destination is the Sunshine State where our new trawler and a new lifestyle awaits. I am acutely aware that we are venturing into uncharted territory, and the thought releases a flutter of butterflies deep in the pit of my stomach.Life's transitions, even happy ones, can be unsettling.I'm surprised that pulling back on the 9 to 5 throttle, slipping into flip-flops and unplugging from the rat race hasn't happened with a snap of the fingers. But my blinkers are on, and I'm definitely starting to merge into the slow lane.Beside getting to know the mechanical and electrical inner workings of our new trawler, I am also getting a refresher course in Live-Aboard Life 101. Unless your boat is the HMS Queen Mary, chances are that downsizing is going to become a reality. Shedding possessions is both liberating and painful, and even though I've streamlined to the max, every nook and cranny of our 34-foot boat is stuffed.Frustrated, I let loose a low growl as I dig out a dozen items from the settee locker before finally spying my buried prize. Thrusting my arm up victoriously, I look around for my husband Bruce, but he's splayed out on the bare fiberglass floor in the aft head (well technically he's splayed half in and half out over the painful raised threshold) replacing a worn-out head rubber seal.[caption id="attachment_324201" align="alignright" width="300"]

Hauling out and sealing the deal | April Winship[/caption]Looking like a circus contortionist, he lays on his back and blindly reaches an arm around the toilet bowl in an awkward embrace to slip on a washer and then thread the nut... all by braille. My mind races back to our years cruising in Mexico when Bruce had to reach into the smelly holding tank to fish out a precious tiny pink Barbie-doll high heel that had somehow fallen into the toilet.At least you aren't going to have to retrieve a lost shoe from the holding tank on this voyage, I say with a chuckle. Only time will tell, is his murmured response, which is my cue to pick up a crescent wrench from the neat row of tools he's lined up, saddle up on his back and start tightening the bolt.I remind myself that everyday tasks take a bit longer to complete in a boat's compact environment, and any kind of maintenance on the to-do list is often intensified with the tropical heat and humidity. Tempers are ripe for flaring, and we try to remember that the sweaty work is best done away from the midday sun and served with a liberal dose of humor.While we opted for more comforts in our new powerboat than we had on our spartan sailing catamaran, these added luxuries translate to an additional layer of systems to learn, maintain and repair. Simply put, there is more stuff to break. But we relish a certain amount of self- sufficiency when cruising far from the dock, so mastering the systems we can use has become a vital mission.[caption id="attachment_324202" align="alignleft" width="182"]

Courtesy of Andrea Fidone on Canva[/caption]During the past few months, we've been climbing a pretty steep learning curve. I've found that previous cruising experience doesn't always exempt us from our share of heart stopping moments such as trying to dock gracefully in a 15-knot crosswind or even the more mundane relearns such as Which way does the rabbit run on that bowline knot again?Life on a moving platform presents its own set of uncertainties: I wonder if I will get seasick on a monohull? Will I fit in with this new lifestyle? When will I stop jamming my toe into that stupid aft cleat? And the most asked question, when will I finally feel competent?From my previous cruising experiences, I know there are no shortcuts from novice to expert and becoming a well-oiled team takes patience, practice and time. Even when newbie isn't plastered across my forehead, I know there is always more to learn ... another skill to hone.As we learn to operate and maintain our new boat and settle into the cruising life, the second most asked question on everybody's mind is What's it like being together 24/7 on such a small space...don't you drive each other crazy? As with any situation, perspective is everything. I usually answer, My boat may be small ... but look at the size of my back yard.For us, cruising is also a shared dream and endeavor, and even with some the bumps along the way the lifestyle resonates with both of us. The rewards far outweigh the risks and challenges of a nomadic life.In my land life I flat out flunked the art of organization, but life afloat dictates a higher grade. It is all slowly coming back to me, the juggling act of meal preparation and execution with miniscule counter space and pared-down appliances. I've come to pride myself in optimizing every inch of our miniature Suzy Homemaker refrigerator and freezer.It's a balancing act, but as we settle into our cockpit chairs on the foredeck, plates firmly in our laps, the feat is worth it as we dine al fresco, witnesses to a last smooch by the sun as it kisses the horizon goodnight, and we bask in the afterglow of passionate colors.Set Sail and Live Your Dreams (Seaworthy Publications, 2019) is the Winship's book about their family's 10-year adventure cruising aboard their 33-foot catamaran Chewbacca. It is available in both paperback and e-book editions at Amazon.

Who knew that cruising to Hawks Cay on Duck Key in the middle of July could be so much fun? I did! As an avid boater with a passion for all things related to water and the Florida Keys, I eagerly accepted an invitation by Pursuit Boats to attend and represent Marinalife at their annual rendezvous. Having joined a few rendezvous in my boating career, I knew this event was one I did not want to miss.

Early in the morning, we arrived at Bahia Mar Resort & Yachting Center in Fort Lauderdale, where the Pursuit team and 14 boats waited at the marina docks. We loaded up and headed toward Duck Key, which is roughly a six-hour trip by boat. Along our journey through clear turquoise waters, we were captivated by sightings of dolphins and other aquatic creatures swimming in the mangroves. Boaters coming in the opposite direction waved a cheery hello as if they knew we were going someplace special.

The first benefit of being part of this rendezvous is that everyone sticks together. We hit some rainy weather, but the lead boat made sure that everyone was comfortable and safe. Pursuit company boats were in the mix within the lineup to ensure that no one lagged behind or had any issues. This level of care never stopped. From arriving at Duck Key and informing everyone about the technique to enter the marina to having a crew ready to take your lines and help you dock, everything went like clockwork.

No one was too big to help. The President of Pursuit, VP of Sales for Malibu boats and other executives grabbed lines, helped people off boats and made sure everyone was docked safely and securely. To toast our successful trip, we were greeted with cold drinks before checking in.

Nearly 130 people from all along the Atlantic seaboard attended this rendezvous. We started the night with a welcome reception that offered everyone a chance to get acclimated and meet other boaters in attendance. The friendly, energetic group made introductions easy as we surveyed our schedule of events, which included snorkeling at the local sandbar in Marathon, racing in the very fun Poker Run around Sombrero Key Lighthouse and competing in a week-long daily fishing tournament. You could just relax in Hawks Cay's three pools or the fresh fed saltwater lagoon. Daily events at the pool ranged from sing-a-longs to kids' games.

Pursuit also offered one-on-one seminars from experts at such places as The Chapman School of Seamanship. They offered time with anyone who wanted to gain experience and training on topics such as docking boats, or guests could learn different ways to handle their boat. Pursuit arranged to have Yamaha engineers on hand to field questions or fix minor issues. Specialists from Fischer Panda Generator, as well as Seakeeper and JL Audio were available all week to make sure we had time to address all our needs. The staff was busy walking around and helping to remedy problems or answer questions. And you left knowing you had a person to call if other issues arose, and they'd be sure to remember you.

On the last night of the rendezvous, we came together for an awards dinner. Pursuit handed out prizes for everything from the biggest fish, the best poker hand, to the youngest fisherman. Everyone from the seasoned boaters to junior crew mates felt part of the rendezvous experience. Boaters made new friendships, and laughter filled the event hall. The grand finale slide show gave photographic proof that fun was had by all!

In a time when many new boaters are hitting the water and people are using their boats to gather in smaller groups, rendezvous are a terrific option. Whether you've recently moved to a new waterfront community or have spent years cruising familiar waters on a Pursuit boat, everyone at these events encounters something enjoyable and finds opportunities to meet new people. These events also help keep people in boating longer, because they have a good time, develop stronger boating skills and discover new places to go.

If a similar rendezvous sounds right for you, ask your boat manufacturer, yacht club or local marina if they host similar events. It is an experience you can get hooked on! For more information about Pursuit or their next rendezvous, go to pursuitboats.com or learn about our memberships at marinalife.com/pursuit-concierge-club

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‍Editor's Note: Pursuit offers a membership program to new 2022 Pursuit owners and everyone who attended this year's rendezvous. The Pursuit Advantage Club and Pursuit Concierge Club memberships are powered by Marinalife, which offers offer discounts on fuel, dockage, hotels and in some cases full concierge service and a one-year Gold Level membership to Sea Tow.

Paying $1,000 to get into a country to experience both a volcanic eruption and a Category 1 hurricane might not be anyone's idea of the perfect holiday, but that's exactly what we got during our time in the Grenadines. Include a whale hunt and a broken foot, and the list of our experiences is complete. Regardless of the rap sheet, if you ask, How are the Grenadines? I'll say magical. Even the wrath of nature hasn't damaged the beauty that it holds.[caption id="attachment_324080" align="alignright" width="300"]

Stern-tied in our favorite anchorage in Petit Byahaut, St. Vincent[/caption]Given the complexities of entry protocol during COVID, movement between Caribbean countries is now both a costly and lengthy process. Tiring of expensive PCR tests and long quarantine periods for a short amount of time in a small cruising area, we were in search of a cruiser's Garden of Eden where we'd have freedom of movement within a large group of islands. With 32 islands in the group, we'd found what we were looking for: the Grenadines was our Eden.We entered in early April, excited to spend a few months exploring this popular cruising destination. With a wide variety of islands, ranging from the pristine beaches of Tobago's white sand cays to the wildness of St. Vincent's black sand shores, the Grenadines offers plenty of diversity for those eager to explore. After two weeks in quarantine, we were eager.All thoughts of a leisurely cruise through a tropical paradise were unexpectedly stunted in our first week in the country. No sooner were we released from quarantine when La Soufrière, St. Vincent's northern-most volcano, erupted. We were in the neighboring island of Bequia when the sky slowly filled with an ominous plume of expanding ash.[caption id="attachment_324081" align="alignleft" width="300"]

Ayla and Braca watching the plume build from Bequia[/caption]By morning, every palm-fringed, white sand beach throughout the Grenadines was covered in a thick layer of toxic ash. The vibrant, aquamarine water was muted by a thin layer of grey film. Streets were empty and towns were deserted. Having just entered our Eden, our aquatic garden looked like the inside of an incinerator.We passed a succession of ghost islands along with a long line of other sailboats as we raced south to get clear of the toxic rainfall. After a few days of inhaling volcanic soot and scrubbing grit from my teeth, the winds changed direction and the thick grey haze finally cleared.Our Eden looked a bit dusty and rough around the edges, but the picture-perfect beauty of the Tobago Cays slowly reemerged. The seven small islands that make up the Cays surround an inner lagoon and are protected by a wide outer reef. Here we settled into true island life, swimming with the turtles and rays that populated the anchorage and gathering ashore with the other cruisers in the evening on uninhabited beaches.Over the next two months we slowly explored every palm-fringed islet and every sandy cay as we made our way back through the chain of islands. Each subsequent bay became our new favorite, and we soon settled into a leisurely routine of swim, rest, drink, sleep the epitome of the perfect Caribbean lifestyle. Eventually bliss and leisure weren't enough to keep us contented; it was time to shake the sand off our backsides and add some punch to our cocktail existence. I needed an adventure.[caption id="attachment_324082" align="alignright" width="300"]

The aftermath of the eruption in Chateaubelair, a town in the red zone[/caption]We'd covered every island south of St. Vincent, but we hadn't yet explored the main island, the northernmost and largest of the group. A little research suggested that the volcano had stabilized and the red zone the area most affected by the volcano was no longer restricted. When looking for excitement, why not start at the heart of the disaster?St. Vincent is geographically different than the rest of the Grenadines, which are a collection of smaller islands with arid shrub-land, flat, wide-open bays and white sand beaches. The main island is lush, verdant, rugged and wild. First-century petroglyphs that were left by the Amerindians were carved, it is suggested, in response to environmental threats such as hurricanes and volcanoes that were never encountered. I thought it suitable that I seek these out in the wake of the recent eruption.The island is also known for its extensive rainforest and the rivers and waterfalls that run through it. While officially closed due to COVID, we were able to hike through the forest and stand under a few of these impressive falls. We stern-tied in tiny bays where sheer cliffs provided exhilarating rock jumps and swam through deep fissures in the rock.We sailed up to the far north of the island where most of the volcanic fallout was visible and took in the scarred earth: pyroclastic flows carved deep paths down the mountain, redirected riverbeds dumped muddy ash into the ocean, and acres of fallen trees lay blackened and scorched across the land.[caption id="attachment_324083" align="alignleft" width="263"]

Kia and Ayla enjoying the refreshing falls at Dark View Falls, St. Vincent[/caption]While our trip up the west coast of St. Vincent was filled with adventure, nothing was as unexpected as the whale hunt in Barrouallie Bay. While I understood it was practiced, I didn't expect that we would witness the hunt and kill of the blackfish, the local term for pilot whale. Five whales were dragged into the bay by small, motorized skiffs with a sawed-off gun mounted on the front.We were allowed to watch as teams butchered the animals, prepared the meat for drying and boiled down the fat into oil. While I am morally opposed to the practice, it was culturally fascinating to talk to the locals about their deep affinity for the meat, particularly the blubber which is revered as an elixir of life and a cure to all ailments, including, they assured us, for COVID.After languishing on the idyllic palm-fringed white sand beaches of the smaller islands, sailing up the west coast of St. Vincent was like dropping into the other side of the world. This was more than a Garden of Eden: It was a beautiful garden that backed up onto a magical forest, offering us the perfect combination of serene tranquility and high adventure. When choosing St. Vincent and the Grenadines, we couldn't have picked it better.Photos by Kia Koropp

Photos by Basha Burwell and Joy McPeters

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The backseat of Jen's 1976 Cadillac convertible was piled high with gear and supplies. The three of us -- my college roommate Jen, her 12-year-old daughter Estelle and I climbed into the front seat, because the rest of the car was crammed full of coolers, gear, beach towels, tents, grocery bags and other outdoor essentials. As we drove toward the Center Harbor Yacht Club where our boating and camping adventure would begin, Estelle looked at "our stuff" and at her mother and exclaimed, "Mom, this isn't camping; it's glamping!"

The mother-daughter camping trip had been a topic of discussion for many years, and it was finally happening. The dream getaway was conceived by five women and their daughters, who were long-time friends in Brooklin, ME, located on Eggemoggin Reach. The girls had spent summers sailing and swimming together, and their moms were all avid boaters. The idea of combining a boating and camping trip to an island was destined to be the perfect summer adventure. And this female-only crew was excited to show our significant others that we could handle the prepping, boating and camping, as well as having a blast.

On a crisp August morning, we gathered on the dinghy dock at the Center Harbor Yacht Club. Several boaters walked by and gasped at the amount of gear and supplies we had laid out on the dock for a one-night camping trip. We laughed and commented that we were prepared for anything and everything.

Somehow we managed to load everything into two boats: Scout, a 1977 Cape Dory 25-foot sailboat and Handy Billy, a 21-foot powerboat. Our destination was Little Hog Island, situated just off Naskeag Point. Three adults, Jen, Elizabeth and I, along with two eight-year-old children, Isla and Lavinia, set off on the powerboat. Scout's crew was comprised of Basha and Julia, along with Estelle (aged 12) and Frankie (aged 13).

The day was idyllic. Along our route, curious seals popped their heads above the water and playful porpoises jumped in our wake. In less than an hour, we passed Naskeag Point on our port side and began looking for the right spot to anchor close to Little Hog Island. As we slowed down, the dinghy we were towing came closer into view, and I instantly recognized a problem. The dinghy line was tied too close to the boat, so it filled with water and was close to capsizing.

After pulling the dinghy next to the boat, I started bailing. In Maine, bailing water out of sailboats and dinghies is common. Luckily, we had a good-sized bailing container, so after 15-20 minutes, I handed the bucket to Jen. When the dinghy was stabilized, we sent the kids in to finish the job.

While dropping the anchor line, we reminded each other that we arrived at high tide, so we should let out extra line. After the anchor was set, we started the daunting task of unloading gear into the dinghy to row to the island.

Jen, the two girls and I took the first load, because we had an ulterior motive about reaching the island -- we wanted to secure Little Hog Island as our own. In Maine, lots of islands allow camping, but most are on a first-come, first-served basis. The girls saw kayakers heading toward the island, so Jen frantically rowed us to shore so they could jump off the dinghy and claim the island for our party of nine. Success! The kayakers turned toward Naskeag Point, reserving Little Hog as ours for the night.

At high tide, adjacent Hog Island looked like a separate island, but locals told us that at low tide the two landmasses were connected. After dropping off the first round of gear, Jen went back for the second as I found a good spot for our kitchen area and a protected space under the trees to hang hammocks and put up tents.

Before long, all the gear from our boats was safely deposited on Little Hog. As a bank of fog approached, we anxiously surveyed the water for a sighting of Scout. When we spotted her under full sail heading our way, we decided to start unpacking and sent the kids to gather firewood.

Before we knew it, Basha had anchored Scout, and the crew was rowing to shore with the next round of camping necessities. When we finally laid everything out on the rocks, we could see that we had enough "stuff" to last a week!

When the fog moved off, the warm sun and sparkling water beckoned us for a swim. Some of the kids had already jumped off the rocks into the water, but the older group needed a bit more coaxing. The rum punches helped give us courage to take the leap, and soon we were all gliding around in the clear cold water laughing like children. There is nothing like the refreshing, take-your-breath-away feeling of swimming in Maine.

Eventually we moved from our sun-warmed rocks back to camp and started dinner preparations. The efficiency of five close friends working in tandem makes miracles happen: We seamlessly prepped dinner, started the fire and made sure the tents were set up properly. Jen took charge of the taco dinner that she had cooked before leaving so we just had to warm a few dishes and set up the buffet line on our rock table in our rock kitchen. We were all starving. It's amazing how camping and living outdoors can create huge appetites. Dinner was delicious, and we ate everything except the paper plates.

After dinner, we gathered around the fire and noticed that the fog had returned. No worries; we had our fire and S'mores! While watching the cracking logs and glowing embers, we discussed the different methods for roasting marshmallows. Who knew there were so many ways to make S'mores and so many great stories about Maine adventures and mis-adventures?

When I noticed that my hat was getting wet, we realized that the fog had fully arrived causing a light rain. It was almost time for bed anyway, so this seemed like a good opportunity to get everything cleaned and put away.

By now the fog grew super thick, and we could hear the foghorn from Georges Bell, which added to the eeriness. Basha reminded us that she planned to sleep on Scout, and that meant she'd row out to the boat in dense fog at night. For safety's sake, Jen and I decided to row next to her and make sure she got on her boat.

We put on lifejackets, and Elizabeth grabbed her lantern and headed to the tip of the island to help us get back. At the time, this seemed unnecessary, as the boat was only 50 yards away. Jen rowed and I looked ahead trying to help navigate, but it's amazing how disoriented you can become in thick fog. The mast of the Cape Dory finally came into view. Once Basha was safely on board her boat and the dinghy was secured, we turned back toward the island. The lantern definitely helped guide us back to camp and to our tents and sleeping bags, which I could not wait to crawl into.

We all had a restless night's sleep, because the fog droplets made everything wet, including our tent. A foggy but beautiful sunrise greeted us that day. Julia made coffee on the fire, and a few daring souls plunged into the ice-cold ocean to wake up.

Everyone was eager to explore Hog Island, which would now be possible at low tide. The morning fog slowly lifted and created a surreal atmosphere, and all we could hear were the birds and the foghorn. A juvenile bald eagle watched us from a tree above our campsite.

After a tasty breakfast of eggs, potatoes and homemade bread, we were ready to investigate Hog Island. This 72-acre island is owned by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust, which allows visitors to enjoy the beautiful beaches and rocky shores.

When we returned, the fog was lifting, so we broke down camp and tried to pack up. Unfortunately, the fog droplets left everything really wet, so as soon as the midday sun rose in the sky, we laid sleeping bags, gear and tents on the rocks to dry. Our campsite looked like a disorganized yard sale.

Before heading back, I took a solo walk around Little Hog to absorb the absolute beauty of this area and relish the last views of our home for the past 24 hours. Packing up and ferrying the gear back to the boats was easier this time without all the food, water and rum punch.

We agreed to switch boats on the way home, so Jen and I rode on Basha's sailboat, and the rest went on the powerboat. As we sailed back toward the yacht club, several seals popped up to say goodbye and porpoises escorted us in our wake. What a beautiful ending to what we hope will be an annual mother-daughter camping adventure! The women felt empowered for successfully pulling off our gals-only camping adventure and pleased that we showed the next generation that the sky's the limit even if a little fog gets in the way.

In 2015, one chapter of our life closed, and a new chapter opened for my wife Claudia and me. We sold our home, changed course and went all in by moving aboard our new-to-us 1981, 43-foot Viking aft cabin cruiser. Thus, began a grand adventure as full-time cruisers exploring our country from the perspective of her historic waterways. We'd like to share our adventures on Lake Champlain and shed light on a nameless hero who cruised these waters during the Revolutionary War.

Starting Point: Rouses Point, NY

We began our journey on Lake Champlain as a part of a larger adventure cruising the Down East Loop in 2019. We started at the Gaines Marina, a few miles south of the Canadian border. Before taking off, we walked down to Stewart's Gas Station and stocked up on ice cream. Near the convenience store, we found a drug store, dollar store and post office within walking distance.

We were investigating a nameless hero who participated in the assault on Quebec City and lead forces in Montreal in 1775. The British army began to challenge American patriots in Montreal and forced a retreat. Our nameless hero captured several ships during his retreat and made way back to Whitehall, NY. George Washington ordered a fleet of ships to protect Lake Champlain from British control. The gunboats were built under the direction of our nameless hero. In the fall of 1776, he headed to Lake Champlain's north end in the new fleet and met the British at Valcour Island.

Leg 1: Rouses Point, NY to Valcour Island, NY

Estimated Milage: 23.5 NMA short cruise south to Valcour Island brought us to an anchorage off its west side, which is part of the N.Y. State Park System and has few amenities. We dropped the dinghy and landed on the island to hike to Bluff Point Lighthouse and overlook the waters where the Battle of Valcour Island took place. We were anchored right in the middle of ground zero of the battle.

Our nameless hero made a fruitless stand in these waters in October 1776. His fleet of small gunships was no match for the superior British forces. He retreated south and lost all the gunships that were built in Whitehall. However, with winter approaching the Battle of Valcour Island was enough of a delay to prevent the British from advancing south to Fort Ticonderoga until 1777.

Leg 2: Valcour Island, NY to Burlington, VT

Estimated Milage: 13 NMWe stopped at the Burlington Boathouse for a few days to launch our shore excursions into Burlington. Luckily, the town runs a free shuttle bus to overcome the steep hill from the marina to downtown shopping and attractions. The local history was filled with stories of Ethan Allen and the famed Green Mountain Boys. Also, the area is rich with ice cream. Factory tours and the sweetest graveyard of dearly depinted Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream are a short ride outside of town.

About a block from the docks is a French restaurant named The Skinny Pancake that serves up a unique menu of crepes and music. Also near the marina you can enjoy a waterfront park, science museum and a great bicycle trail system.

Leg 3: Burlington, VT to Vergennes, VT

Estimated Milage: 21.7 NMContinuing south, we took a short side trip on Otter Creek. We picked the mouth of the creek in Fields Bay and continued for about seven miles. The reward for this little side trip was a beautiful waterfall that we anchored below the first night. The second night we moved over to the free dock where one 50-amp and several 20-amp hook-ups were available. The waterfall is lit up at night with rotating colors until about midnight. Drop-dead gorgeous! And locals raved about Black Sheep Bistro as a must-do while in town.

Leg 4: Vergennes, VT to Lake Champlain Maritime Museum, VT

Estimated Milage: 9.6 NMAfter returning to Lake Champlain via Otter Creek, we turned south again for a four-mile run to the mooring balls owned by the Basin Harbor Club. After getting settled, we dropped the dinghy and landed on the floating dock at the Maritime Museum. Also on the dock is a replica of the Philadelphia, one of the gunboats lost during the Battle of Valcour Island.

The museum did a wonderful job of telling the maritime history of Lake Champlain. An entire building was dedicated to our nameless hero and his story of guarding these waters from 1775-1777. About a quarter mile from the museum was Red Mill Restaurant, located on a landing strip where we watched a plane land and the crew come in to eat. Brings a whole new meaning to the idea of dock and dine.

Leg 5: Lake Champlain Maritime Museum, VT to Fort Ticonderoga, NY

Estimated Milage: 23.5 NMAs we continued southbound, we passed by Crown Point State Park and under the Lake Champlain Bridge. There is no dock, but good anchorages abound if you go ashore and explore the battlefields and fort remnants that date back to 1775. The lighthouse on the point honors the lake's namesake, Samuel de Champlain.

After passing under the bridge, the lake narrows and becomes more like a river. Another 15 miles south, we dropped anchor off the shore of Fort Ticonderoga. On the north side of the point where the fort is located is a ferry dock where we landed our dingy and explored the fort. The period re-enactors brought the fort to life with tales of yesteryear.

Our nameless hero participated with Ethan Allen and the Green Mountain Boys in 1775 to capture Fort Ticonderoga from the surprised British Army. He also made his way back to the fort in 1776 after abandoning his flagship on Lake Champlain's east shore.

Leg 6: Fort Ticonderoga, NY to Whitehall, NY

Estimated Milage: 20.9 NMAs we continued south, the lake gave way to Champlain Canal at Whitehall. After passing through Lock 12, we landed at the free Whitehall Municipal Dock. Whitehall was originally named Skenesborough in 1759 after its founding father, Phillip Skene.

Skenesborough Museum tells how the town built a fleet of gunboats used in the Battle of Valcour Island. In 1960, New York State declared Whitehall, The Birthplace of the U.S. Navy. Skene Manor awaits across the canal and up the hill. Lunch and tours are provided at the mansion. This section of the canal is 140 feet above sea level. From this highest point, it was downhill all the way to New York City.

Leg 7: Whitehall, NY to Fort Edwards, NY

Estimated Mileage: 21.7 NMThe day's major events entailed negotiating the four locks between Whitehall and Fort Edwards. After completing the locks, we turned up the marked channel to Fort Edwards Yacht Basin. The city provides free dockage and 30-amp power along the concrete wall. We took a short walk to Stumpy's Pizza and strolled five minutes to Stewart's Gas Station to stock up on ice cream. If you are not careful along the way, you might feel the tug of Slickfin Brewing Co. pull you into their craft beer den.

Leg 8: Fort Edwards, NY to Mechanicville, NY

Estimated Mileage: 24.3 NMThis leg of the journey provides one big obstacle for boats trying to enter Lake Champlain. Between Locks 3 and 4 is a railroad bridge (C-5) that is sometimes incorrectly charted as 21 feet. However, the N.Y. Canal System lists this bridge as 15 feet. The good news is that lock operators can lower the pool level down to 17 feet. If you need help getting under this bridge, call the lock operator the day before and request that the pool level be lowered. We have crossed under this bridge three times, and each time they honored our request to lower the pool.

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On the way south we passed Schuylerville. If you wish to stop here, the Schuyler Yacht Basin will accommodate your request. From this location, you can visit historic Saratoga Springs. Just south of the marina, we spotted a large 155-foot stone obelisk. The Saratoga Monument stands where the British Lt. General John Burgoyne camped with his troops before surrendering on October 17, 1777, which is known as the turning point of America's Revolutionary War.

On the monument, bronze statues built into the structure commemorated the leaders and heroes of the battle. General Schuyler faces east toward his estate. Colonel Daniel Morgan faces west where his troops were located during the battle. General Horatio Gates faces north where the British invasion started. All sides of the estate display structures honoring battle heroes, but the south side has no statue paying tribute to the brave man who led the charge that cemented the victory. During this charge, our nameless hero was shot and wounded in the leg. Not far from this site is another nameless statue, The Boot Monument with the inscription, In memory of the most brilliant soldier of the Continental Army who was desperately wounded on this spot, winning for his countrymen the decisive battle of the American Revolution and for himself the rank of Major General.

We arrived at Mechanicville to find free dockage and power, and one more nameless hero memorial south of here on the Hudson River at West Point. A plaque for each general of the Revolutionary War hangs in the Old Cadet Chapel. Surprisingly, you find no plaque honoring our nameless hero, but you discover a nameless plaque with: Major General, Born 1740.

All three memorials commemorate the same nameless hero. I often wonder how many schools, libraries, bridges, buildings, parks, and roads would bear our hero's name if his gunshot wound at the Battle of Saratoga had been fatal on the day of his greatest victory.

Oh, and the name of our nameless hero, you ask? None other than the infamous Benedict Arnold.

A palpable depth and richness embrace visitors to the southern coast of North Carolina. Cruising from the urbane city of Wilmington south through coastal beach communities with their own distinct personalities, you are greeted with a casual welcoming atmosphere. Even if you've never been here, it will feel like familiar territory. The region has hosted more than 400 TV and film productions including Iron Man 3, which was filmed along the Cape Fear River in Wilmington.

DAY 1: WILMINGTON

Wilmington to Wrightsville Beach 5 NMBreathtaking stretches of white sand and crystal blue water offer a pleasant sense of removal from everyday life. Known as one of the best surf towns in America, Wrightsville Beach is all about activity. Visitors can walk the 2.45-mile paved loop around the island, scuba to historic shipwrecks, or learn The Shag, a Carolina swing dance. During the annual East Coast Shag Classic, dancers display their footwork to the beach music of several live bands. Complimentary shag and line dance lessons are offered.

[caption id="attachment_322846" align="alignleft" width="300"]

Downtown Wilmington by Stuart Borrett[/caption]Wrightsville is a very walkable beach town where leisure travelers indulge in resort amenities, boutique shopping and abundant sea-to-table fare. Adapt Kitchen & Juice Bar provides healthy snacks or a coffee pickup during a busy day. For lunch or dinner, try the Shark Bar for a burger, crab cake or Great White margarita.

On the eastern shore of the ICW, just south of the drawbridge, Wrightsville Beach Marina has slips to 150 feet. The Bluewater Grill overlooks the docks, luring in hungry boaters to enjoy prime rib or local seafood in the dining room or on a spacious patio.

DAY 2: BALD HEAD ISLAND

Wrightsville Beach to Bald Head Island 28 NMAlthough only a stone's throw away from Wrightsville Beach, Bald Head Island with its endless marshes, forests and rustic charm feels worlds apart. Bald Head Island's history is filled with tales of pirates, ghosts and civil war soldiers told by guides on tours from the Old Baldy Foundation or Sail Shop's Ghost Walk. The interactive, theatrical tour through the island features costumed performers representing lighthouse keepers, river pilots, famed pirates, sought-after women of the time, lost civil war soldiers, and Blackbeard, the most fearsome pirate of all. An unmistakable landmark on any tour is Old Baldy, North Carolina's oldest standing lighthouse.

[caption id="attachment_322844" align="alignright" width="300"]

Bald Head Island by Gardener41 on Flickr[/caption]

The Bald Head Island Conservancy provides close-up involvement with nature. Scores of loggerhead sea turtles return each summer to lay their eggs. Seeing a nesting sea turtle or watching a nest boil and release a hundred turtle hatchlings are once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

Nature manifests in a different manner during the Howl party (so called by locals) at East Beach Access 39. When the full moon rises out of the Atlantic Ocean each month, a collective howl! arises from the gathered crowd. Howlers bring food and drink to share as they gather around a blazing bonfire.

For classic coastal dining, Jules' Salty Grub & Island Pub offers a signature steampot brimming with crabs, shrimp and more, as well as the Calabash Seafood Platter stacked with fried fresh catch. The well-stocked Maritime Market has a cafe and is also an excellent provisioning spot.

Bald Head Island Marina, surrounded by charming Harbour Village, has 155 slips to 115 feet, full boating amenities, and front-door access to the island.

DAY 3: SOUTHPORT

Bald Head Island to Southport 3.82 NMSouthport is a 2.2 square mile village that combines historic residences and lush coastal landscaping. Both quintessentially Southern and authentically maritime, the town has a distinct culture all its own.

[caption id="attachment_322845" align="alignleft" width="300"]

Southport by Matt on Flickr[/caption]

In a community devoted to the water, tourists find ample walkways to explore the waterfront, restaurants and lounges with incredible views overlooking the river, and even a park and town pier for a front-row view of passing ships. A stroll along Marsh Walk, a long boardwalk that begins along Brunswick Avenue on the edges of bustling downtown and ends essentially nowhere, provides incredible views of the Cape Fear and Elizabeth rivers.

Howe Street, close to a host of restaurants, art galleries and the scenic waterfront, offers several options for scoring a chic pair of flip-flops for mingling with locals along the docks. Boo & Roo's is a funky shop that twists modern appeal into classic southern style reflecting the laid-back but fashion- forward Cape Fear scene. For seafood or brunch, Oliver's on the Cape Fear gets rave reviews.

Offering more than 200 slips to 210 feet and can lift a boat up to 75 tons, Southport Marina is one of the largest, most complete marinas located on the ICW. The marina is at mile 309, marker 2A, at the entrance to the Cape Fear River. Be sure to check out Port City, the energetic waterfront bustling with shops, restaurants and nightlife.